How To Care For Iguana
A useful aid for anyone who is going to raise a new iguana, it provides useful information on food, cages, and care for these reptiles
Are you tired of cats and dogs? Maybe a more exotic pet is what you need. Although they won't cuddle or purr, an iguana will provide unlimited entertainment if raised well. It is like owning your own miniature dinosaur. Hopefully, if you decide to take the scaly road these simple steps will allow your new green friend to live a long healthy life.
First of all you need a cage for you new reptile. Naturally the store bought cages are convenient, however they can be expensive. I suggest the do it yourself method. All you will need is wood, screening, lighting, and some creativity. The greatest consideration will be the size of your cage because within three years your iguana will reach its full-grown size. This can be as long as six feet, so the cage must be roomy. You will also want to make the bottom easily accessible so food and water can be changed frequently. Most important is that you include UV lighting, which provides fake sunlight for your pet. Without this light the iguana is unable to digest food and will never become full-grown. You can buy these lights at your local pet stores, but everything else will be at a hardware store.
You will also want to buy a heating source for the cage; this can be a heat rock or a red heat lamp. If you decide to use a lamp make sure the iguana does not come within a foot of it, iguanas are very attracted to heat and if they stay to close to the lamp they will be burned. For a final touch you should fill the cage with some sticks. These you don't need to buy, your local forest has a large supply. Make sure you wash each stick before placing it in the cage though.
For a food supply you should use a variety of greens found at your grocery store. Never use iceberg lettuce, the iguanas find it very delicious but it has very little nutrients. Romaine lettuce provides a great start for an iguana diet. Other than this mix in a variety of fruits and vegetables. However, avoid acidic fruits such as oranges; these will harm your pet. Water must always be present in the cage and it must be cleaned frequently because iguanas tend to dirty their water a lot. You may even want to put some mulch or fake grass on the bottom of the cage to make it seem more like the tropics.
Congratulations you have set up an excellent iguana care facility. Remember when you get your new pet leave them alone for a week or so to adjust to the cage and feeding times. Soon after you can begin handling your pet. Don't be discouraged if they bite at first, you must remember to stay strong so the iguana can see who is in charge. On top of all of this you must not forget like any pet, your iguana may need special care and you have to locate a veterinarian that can handle reptiles. It is also a good idea to get yearly check ups. Soon, with proper care and love you will be taking your new iguana for walks outside to show off all of your hard work and dedication.
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Friday, February 13, 2009
Information On Iguanas
Information On Iguanas
Need information to care for your pet Iguana? This will tell all about iguanas and their nutrition, housing, growth, maintenance, behavior,health concerns, offspring, and what to feed them.
The Iguana is a tree-living, and daylight-active lizard found in the subtropical region form Northern Mexico to Central South America. There are three common colors of Iguanas they are: brown, green, and orange. There are also three different types of Iguanas and they are: Chuckawalla, Desert, and Green.
Although Iguanas are cute when they are young they can grow to be 4-7 feet in length, 6-9 inches in height, and weigh 10-20 pounds.They may start in a 10 gallon tank or aquarium and eventually will require a much larger space. They are very high in maintenance so careful consideration should be taken before buying one. Iguanas require a lot of attention, and care. If well maintained and well taken care of the Iguana can live 11 or more years.
An Iguanas temperament will vary from one to another. Some like to be held and some just tolerate it.They will bite if provoked.
Feeding an Iguana consists of many things : plant proteins, carbohydrates, fiber and very little fat. They need moisture in their food to offset the dry environment. Healthy vegetables to feed them are; green beans, snap peas, snow peas, orange vegetables, such as squashes, and carrots, parsnips, and turnips. Healthy fruits such as, strawberries, mango, papaya, apple, and cantaloupe. Healthy greens are: collard, mustard, dandelion, escarole, kale and chard. On the average it will cost about $30.00 to feed an Iguana a month.
There are some health concerns for the Iguanas such as; metabolic bone disease, kidney failure, respiratory infections, and mouth problems. There are two very common behaviors the Iguanas have and they are head bobbing, and sneezing. Head bobbing can be a territorial display or a mating ritual. Sneezing is very common because Iguanas cannot sweat like a human so they sneeze to excrete salt.
Need information to care for your pet Iguana? This will tell all about iguanas and their nutrition, housing, growth, maintenance, behavior,health concerns, offspring, and what to feed them.
The Iguana is a tree-living, and daylight-active lizard found in the subtropical region form Northern Mexico to Central South America. There are three common colors of Iguanas they are: brown, green, and orange. There are also three different types of Iguanas and they are: Chuckawalla, Desert, and Green.
Although Iguanas are cute when they are young they can grow to be 4-7 feet in length, 6-9 inches in height, and weigh 10-20 pounds.They may start in a 10 gallon tank or aquarium and eventually will require a much larger space. They are very high in maintenance so careful consideration should be taken before buying one. Iguanas require a lot of attention, and care. If well maintained and well taken care of the Iguana can live 11 or more years.
An Iguanas temperament will vary from one to another. Some like to be held and some just tolerate it.They will bite if provoked.
Feeding an Iguana consists of many things : plant proteins, carbohydrates, fiber and very little fat. They need moisture in their food to offset the dry environment. Healthy vegetables to feed them are; green beans, snap peas, snow peas, orange vegetables, such as squashes, and carrots, parsnips, and turnips. Healthy fruits such as, strawberries, mango, papaya, apple, and cantaloupe. Healthy greens are: collard, mustard, dandelion, escarole, kale and chard. On the average it will cost about $30.00 to feed an Iguana a month.
There are some health concerns for the Iguanas such as; metabolic bone disease, kidney failure, respiratory infections, and mouth problems. There are two very common behaviors the Iguanas have and they are head bobbing, and sneezing. Head bobbing can be a territorial display or a mating ritual. Sneezing is very common because Iguanas cannot sweat like a human so they sneeze to excrete salt.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Basilisk Lizard
Basilisk Lizard
What kind of lizard can walk on water?
How does it do that?
Why does it walk on water?
How does the basilisk run on water?
There is a reptile, named the basilisk, with four legs that is known for its ability to walk or run on water. It has the unique ability to get a running start and just keeps on running. With such a light body and such large feet, it can literally run on water as far as a quarter mile! The basilisk's hind toes have scales that help it along and act as water skis. However, if it ever slows while on the surface, it can sink. Some basilisks can even take their running on water a step further. If they want to confuse the animal that's chasing it, they can run across the water, then sink below the surface and quickly swim the opposite direction.
What is a basilisk?
They are truly not appealing to look at and that is one of the reasons the basilisk was so feared. According to ancient mythology, in fact, the basilisk was considered the most deadly of creatures. It could simply look at another animal, the legend goes, and the animal would drop dead. It was also believed that the basilisk could breathe on an animal, and its foul breath was so lethal that it can have the same effect as a poisonous gas. However, none of this has been proven true. In reality, when the basilisk doesn't like a predator, it darts off running and gets out of harm's way.
The lizard is generally green in color, but can adjust its hue to many different colors. Some grow as long as three feet. One of their several distinguishing features are their eyes. They seem to protrude from the animal's head. The basilisk also has a large crest on its forehead with a mark that look like the crest on the back of a shark protruding from the ocean surface. When the animal feels threatened, or if you make it angry, the basilisk raises its head and its bottom jaw opens up. Yes, the breath the animal lets off is foul, and the display it puts on often frightens off any creature that crosses its path. However, the fact remains that the basilisk isn't incredibly harmful to more powerful creatures.
The basilisk has long legs and huge toes and, like dinosaurs, can run on two legs. Also similar to dinosaurs, when basilisks run away, they often shoot their tails horizontally in the air.
What kind of lizard can walk on water?
How does it do that?
Why does it walk on water?
How does the basilisk run on water?
There is a reptile, named the basilisk, with four legs that is known for its ability to walk or run on water. It has the unique ability to get a running start and just keeps on running. With such a light body and such large feet, it can literally run on water as far as a quarter mile! The basilisk's hind toes have scales that help it along and act as water skis. However, if it ever slows while on the surface, it can sink. Some basilisks can even take their running on water a step further. If they want to confuse the animal that's chasing it, they can run across the water, then sink below the surface and quickly swim the opposite direction.
What is a basilisk?
They are truly not appealing to look at and that is one of the reasons the basilisk was so feared. According to ancient mythology, in fact, the basilisk was considered the most deadly of creatures. It could simply look at another animal, the legend goes, and the animal would drop dead. It was also believed that the basilisk could breathe on an animal, and its foul breath was so lethal that it can have the same effect as a poisonous gas. However, none of this has been proven true. In reality, when the basilisk doesn't like a predator, it darts off running and gets out of harm's way.
The lizard is generally green in color, but can adjust its hue to many different colors. Some grow as long as three feet. One of their several distinguishing features are their eyes. They seem to protrude from the animal's head. The basilisk also has a large crest on its forehead with a mark that look like the crest on the back of a shark protruding from the ocean surface. When the animal feels threatened, or if you make it angry, the basilisk raises its head and its bottom jaw opens up. Yes, the breath the animal lets off is foul, and the display it puts on often frightens off any creature that crosses its path. However, the fact remains that the basilisk isn't incredibly harmful to more powerful creatures.
The basilisk has long legs and huge toes and, like dinosaurs, can run on two legs. Also similar to dinosaurs, when basilisks run away, they often shoot their tails horizontally in the air.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Komodo Dragon Lizard Information
Komodo Dragon Lizard Information
Komodo Dragon Lizards are mysterious, but here are the facts.
What is a Komodo dragon?
Komodo dragons, or Komodo monitors, are actually lizards. They just happen not to spend much time in the water and are much larger than other lizards. They grow as large as six-feet long and can be fairly substantial in weight. They aren't generally very fast creatures, but their hunting strategies are based on power and size. Compared with lions and other carnivores, Komodos can eat larger bites of meat with each bite and waste no time in swallowing or chewing. The lizards tend to prey on animals like monkeys, goats, wild boars, and rodents.
Komodos have four legs and prefer tropical climates. The reason there aren't many of them around is because young Komodos often end up as victims of prey to larger animals. However, if they can live past their fifth birthday, there's a good chance they'll be fine.
Mating generally happens in the summer and males regularly get into fights over the females. When they fight, the Komodos lean back on the hefty tails for support as they grab each other's forelegs and attempt to wrestle the other to the ground. The most powerful get to breed.
Why are Komodo dragons mysterious?
Komodo dragons were unknown to the Americas until 1910. That was the year Lieutenant van Steyn van Hensbroek, a Dutch colonist, heard about the "land crocodile." People in the western world then talked about the animal for years as if it were an ancient creature that may not really exist, or may even be God-like. Van Hensbroek took it upon himself to find the dragon, and he did just that. He eventually killed a Komodo that was about six-feet long. Van Hensbroek and a zoo director named Peter Ouwens compared their dragons and then determined that the Komodos were actually a form of monitor lizard. It wasn't until 1912 when Ouwens wrote a scientific paper about the Komodo.
The Dutch colonial government believed the Komodo to be magnificent and rare, so they immediately issued plans to protect the creature. Explorers then traveled to the island of Komodo, where this rare dragon was believed to originate. There were as few as 3,500 Komodos in existence, and were listed on the endangered species list.
Much more is known about Komodos today, and much of the mystery is gone. While scientists are still learning more about these creatures, they aren't nearly as mysterious as they once were. However, the Komodo dragon's reputation for being a special and magnificent creature for the most part still exists.
Komodo Dragon Lizards are mysterious, but here are the facts.
What is a Komodo dragon?
Komodo dragons, or Komodo monitors, are actually lizards. They just happen not to spend much time in the water and are much larger than other lizards. They grow as large as six-feet long and can be fairly substantial in weight. They aren't generally very fast creatures, but their hunting strategies are based on power and size. Compared with lions and other carnivores, Komodos can eat larger bites of meat with each bite and waste no time in swallowing or chewing. The lizards tend to prey on animals like monkeys, goats, wild boars, and rodents.
Komodos have four legs and prefer tropical climates. The reason there aren't many of them around is because young Komodos often end up as victims of prey to larger animals. However, if they can live past their fifth birthday, there's a good chance they'll be fine.
Mating generally happens in the summer and males regularly get into fights over the females. When they fight, the Komodos lean back on the hefty tails for support as they grab each other's forelegs and attempt to wrestle the other to the ground. The most powerful get to breed.
Why are Komodo dragons mysterious?
Komodo dragons were unknown to the Americas until 1910. That was the year Lieutenant van Steyn van Hensbroek, a Dutch colonist, heard about the "land crocodile." People in the western world then talked about the animal for years as if it were an ancient creature that may not really exist, or may even be God-like. Van Hensbroek took it upon himself to find the dragon, and he did just that. He eventually killed a Komodo that was about six-feet long. Van Hensbroek and a zoo director named Peter Ouwens compared their dragons and then determined that the Komodos were actually a form of monitor lizard. It wasn't until 1912 when Ouwens wrote a scientific paper about the Komodo.
The Dutch colonial government believed the Komodo to be magnificent and rare, so they immediately issued plans to protect the creature. Explorers then traveled to the island of Komodo, where this rare dragon was believed to originate. There were as few as 3,500 Komodos in existence, and were listed on the endangered species list.
Much more is known about Komodos today, and much of the mystery is gone. While scientists are still learning more about these creatures, they aren't nearly as mysterious as they once were. However, the Komodo dragon's reputation for being a special and magnificent creature for the most part still exists.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Set Up A Home For Your Pet Lizard
Set Up A Home For Your Pet Lizard
What kind of home will your pet lizard like?
How do you make your pet lizard's home as natural for it as possible?
The basic structure
Like all reptiles, a lizard needs a large enough space so it can have room to move around. You need to make sure there are different temperature levels in its home. A good rule of thumb is to reserve about one-third of the space for moving around, eating, and defecating. Your lizard will likely establish certain spots for each of these needs.
If your lizard is still a baby you want to be sure to plan ahead. Lizards grow quickly. When determining exactly how big your lizard's enclosure needs to be, you first need to measure your adult reptile from the tip of its nose to the end of its tail. The length of its enclosure should be at least two to three times this length; the width should be at least equal to one length of the reptile; and the height should be at least twice its' height.
What to include inside the enclosure?
The overall goal is to make the living arrangements as close to natural as possible. While the basic needs of all reptiles are quite similar, they do have some basic differences.
The main area should be a basking area. This allows the lizard a place it can lie in a warm temperature to help with digestion and sunning. Your lizard will spend most of its time in this spot.
The spot should be somewhere pleasing. This may be next to a window, so it can look outside. You should set up a human heating pad on the bottom of your lizard's enclosure. Also, outfit the basking area with an incandescent light bulb. You'll want the area to be mostly a solid color to be sure the heat stays in, ensuring that your lizard has a consistently heated place to stay.
Most types of lizards also need places they can climb and explore. You'll want to create such a spot for your pet. Again, each species has a different need. Consider building a contraption out of crates that can lead to a top level across the ceiling of the room. This provides them places they can go that simulate their natural habitats.
What conditions to maintain inside your lizard's home?
The most important issue is the temperature of your lizard's enclosure. It should have several different climates in which it can go, depending on its mood and needs. Monitor the temperatures regularly to make sure your lizard has areas that exceed 80 degrees and areas that are less than 70 degrees in which to roam.
What kind of home will your pet lizard like?
How do you make your pet lizard's home as natural for it as possible?
The basic structure
Like all reptiles, a lizard needs a large enough space so it can have room to move around. You need to make sure there are different temperature levels in its home. A good rule of thumb is to reserve about one-third of the space for moving around, eating, and defecating. Your lizard will likely establish certain spots for each of these needs.
If your lizard is still a baby you want to be sure to plan ahead. Lizards grow quickly. When determining exactly how big your lizard's enclosure needs to be, you first need to measure your adult reptile from the tip of its nose to the end of its tail. The length of its enclosure should be at least two to three times this length; the width should be at least equal to one length of the reptile; and the height should be at least twice its' height.
What to include inside the enclosure?
The overall goal is to make the living arrangements as close to natural as possible. While the basic needs of all reptiles are quite similar, they do have some basic differences.
The main area should be a basking area. This allows the lizard a place it can lie in a warm temperature to help with digestion and sunning. Your lizard will spend most of its time in this spot.
The spot should be somewhere pleasing. This may be next to a window, so it can look outside. You should set up a human heating pad on the bottom of your lizard's enclosure. Also, outfit the basking area with an incandescent light bulb. You'll want the area to be mostly a solid color to be sure the heat stays in, ensuring that your lizard has a consistently heated place to stay.
Most types of lizards also need places they can climb and explore. You'll want to create such a spot for your pet. Again, each species has a different need. Consider building a contraption out of crates that can lead to a top level across the ceiling of the room. This provides them places they can go that simulate their natural habitats.
What conditions to maintain inside your lizard's home?
The most important issue is the temperature of your lizard's enclosure. It should have several different climates in which it can go, depending on its mood and needs. Monitor the temperatures regularly to make sure your lizard has areas that exceed 80 degrees and areas that are less than 70 degrees in which to roam.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Lizards As Pets
Lizards As Pets
What kinds of lizard should you consider getting as pets?
What kinds of lizards should you avoid?
Which lizards make better pets than others, and why?
What type of home can you provide for a lizard?
If you have lots of room for a lizard, you may be interested in a large lizard such as an iguana, skink, or adult bearded dragon. If not, a smaller lizard like a leopard gecko may be best.
There are three main types of enclosures. You probably want to start out with a 20-gallon aquarium for each. A desert cage requires plenty of incandescent lighting, gravel and rocks. You'll want to also include a log and maintain a constant temperature of 90 to 95 degrees. For a temperate lizard cage, you'll want bark chips or newspaper on the aquarium floor, a log hiding spot, and lighting temperatures in the mid 80's. For a tropical enclosure you want a floor of moss and bark chips to hold water and keep the climate humid, plenty of plants and temperatures at about 85 degrees. Keep in mind that for tropical cages you may have to replace the plants. Lizards sometimes like to eat them.
Once you've decided which type of tank you can maintain, you can then begin the process of deciding which lizard is right for you. Lizards that thrive in desert tanks include leopard geckos, crevice lizards and swifts. Temperate climate lizards are leopard geckos, house geckos, iguanas, anoles, swifts, and tokays. Tropical lizards include day geckos, house geckos and green anoles.
How much care are you able to provide for a lizard?
Consider how much time you have and how many resources you can dedicate to the well being of your lizard. For instance, chameleons need to be checked on a couple times a day, while leopard geckos only need an hour's worth of attention each week. Some lizards need to be hand fed, while others only require you to drop a few insects into their tank once in awhile.
Lizards such as iguanas are herbivorous. They need a variety of foods ranging from bugs to worms and flies, while most eat only insects. They can be the easiest to feed.
Which lizards should the average pet owner avoid?
Lizards aren't generally difficult to maintain. You just need to be prepared and quite dedicated for certain types. For instance, iguanas and large lizards often need space that can take up an entire room in your house. Your lizard may need a pen they can wander in and climb around. Many average pet owners are ready for this type of situation, but you always need to be sure.
What kinds of lizard should you consider getting as pets?
What kinds of lizards should you avoid?
Which lizards make better pets than others, and why?
What type of home can you provide for a lizard?
If you have lots of room for a lizard, you may be interested in a large lizard such as an iguana, skink, or adult bearded dragon. If not, a smaller lizard like a leopard gecko may be best.
There are three main types of enclosures. You probably want to start out with a 20-gallon aquarium for each. A desert cage requires plenty of incandescent lighting, gravel and rocks. You'll want to also include a log and maintain a constant temperature of 90 to 95 degrees. For a temperate lizard cage, you'll want bark chips or newspaper on the aquarium floor, a log hiding spot, and lighting temperatures in the mid 80's. For a tropical enclosure you want a floor of moss and bark chips to hold water and keep the climate humid, plenty of plants and temperatures at about 85 degrees. Keep in mind that for tropical cages you may have to replace the plants. Lizards sometimes like to eat them.
Once you've decided which type of tank you can maintain, you can then begin the process of deciding which lizard is right for you. Lizards that thrive in desert tanks include leopard geckos, crevice lizards and swifts. Temperate climate lizards are leopard geckos, house geckos, iguanas, anoles, swifts, and tokays. Tropical lizards include day geckos, house geckos and green anoles.
How much care are you able to provide for a lizard?
Consider how much time you have and how many resources you can dedicate to the well being of your lizard. For instance, chameleons need to be checked on a couple times a day, while leopard geckos only need an hour's worth of attention each week. Some lizards need to be hand fed, while others only require you to drop a few insects into their tank once in awhile.
Lizards such as iguanas are herbivorous. They need a variety of foods ranging from bugs to worms and flies, while most eat only insects. They can be the easiest to feed.
Which lizards should the average pet owner avoid?
Lizards aren't generally difficult to maintain. You just need to be prepared and quite dedicated for certain types. For instance, iguanas and large lizards often need space that can take up an entire room in your house. Your lizard may need a pen they can wander in and climb around. Many average pet owners are ready for this type of situation, but you always need to be sure.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Ferret Care
Ferret Care
All about ferrets and their lives, what to feed them, how to care for them, and much more. Ferrets and birds, herps, rabbits, and pet rodents do not get along, but they do get along with dogs and cats. They may sleep 15 hours but while they are awake they are very playful, and active, like burrowing under rugs, bouncing on beds like a trampoline, and they love squeaky toys, baby toys, and of course toys made just for ferrets.
Ferrets have very short attention spans, but they can be trained, and they learn quickly as long as you start very young. These little guys are not the best pet for a child under 7, but children over seven would be great. Infants and ferrets are a no, no because ferrets are attracted to the high pitch cry of an infant.
Is your ferret illegal? There are states where they are illegal and here is a list:
Restrictions may apply in these states:
Ferrets are very playful and fearless. The world is their playground and everything they see is a playtoy or a playmate.
All about ferrets and their lives, what to feed them, how to care for them, and much more. Ferrets and birds, herps, rabbits, and pet rodents do not get along, but they do get along with dogs and cats. They may sleep 15 hours but while they are awake they are very playful, and active, like burrowing under rugs, bouncing on beds like a trampoline, and they love squeaky toys, baby toys, and of course toys made just for ferrets.
Ferrets have very short attention spans, but they can be trained, and they learn quickly as long as you start very young. These little guys are not the best pet for a child under 7, but children over seven would be great. Infants and ferrets are a no, no because ferrets are attracted to the high pitch cry of an infant.
Is your ferret illegal? There are states where they are illegal and here is a list:
- California
- Hawaii
- Minnesota: Bloomington, Burnsville
- Ohio: Columbus
- Oklahoma: Tulsa
- Ontario: Canada,London, York, and East York
- Puerto Rico
- Texas: Dallas, Fortworth, Beaumont
- Washington DC
Restrictions may apply in these states:
- Illinois- free permit required
- Minnesota- St. Paul requires a one time fee of $25.00
- New Jersey- permit required at $10.00 a year
- Rhode Island- permit required at $10.00 a year
- South Carolina- It is legal to own one, but illegal to sell one
Ferrets are very playful and fearless. The world is their playground and everything they see is a playtoy or a playmate.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Ferret Care: Proofing Your Home
Ferret Care: Proofing Your Home
How do you take care of a ferret? Ferret-Proofing your home.
Ferrets are related to otters, skunks and badgers. They are close relatives of the weasel, polecat and mink. Their scientific name is Mustela furo, or thief, in Latin. Ferrets are not rodents but carnivores, and in the wild they enjoy eating mice.
They have scent glands for marking and protection. While the ferret cannot spray, it can mark its territory or emit a smell when frightened. Pet stores sell descented ferrets. The scent gland is surgically removed when they are neutered or spayed. While ferrets have scent glands throughout the body, removal of the anal scent gland removes the strongest smells.
Today's domesticated ferret probably came from the Romans. The ferret was used for hunting and was helpful in hunting rabbits. Wild ferrets can kill game twice their size. Farmers and sailors used them to control rodents in barns and on ships. Rodents are afraid of the ferret's scent. Ferrets were used in early America to control rodents until poisons and traps were invented to replace them.
Ferrets have been used by Boeing to run wires through tight spaces in aircraft assemblies. They became popular as pets in the 1970's once someone learned how to de-scent them. Female ferrets weigh from 1.5 to 2.5 pounds. Males are larger, weighing from 3 to 5 pounds. Male ferrets are quieter while females are more active. They come in a variety of colors. There are also many color variations in paws, neck rings and tail tips. Ferrets mature in six months and live an average of 7 to 9 years. They are playful all of their lives. Older ferrets will even sit in your lap. Adult ferrets sleep around 15 hours a day. They will be awake when you wake up and sleep while you're gone to work. They will be ready to play when you get back home. Ferrets love to play with you, other ferrets or even other pets. They enjoy being chased and love to chase you. They like to play tug of war, run in tubes and pipes, jump on blankets, and chase balls. When a ferret gets excited it begins to dance and jump in circles. Don't be surprised if he jumps off of your sofa or runs into a wall. This usually doesn't hurt him.
All ferrets like to steal whatever they can drag away and they like to hide whatever they steal. They usually have a couple of stockpiles in your home. Once you find them, you can usually find whatever's missing. Ferrets are also intelligent. They are able to solve problems, for example, how to get in the cabinet to drag away rolls of toilet paper.
Ferrets need a high protein diet and lots of fresh water. They are not big on fish. You can feed them chicken cat food and also meat, such as turkey cold cuts. Many ferrets will not eat real meat. They should also be given small amounts of cereals, grains, fruits and vegetables. Goat's milk and cooked egg are enjoyable treats, too. A ferret will eat many small meals a day. There should be a supply of food handy for them at all times. Giving them dry food helps keep their teeth in good condition. Chocolate is toxic to ferrets. They are also lactose intolerant so don't feed them any Dairy products. Goat's milk is okay, though. It is low in lactose.
You can use cat litter for a ferret. They instinctively use one area of the cage as a toilet. Even young ferrets have this instinct. Ferrets like to keep their bathroom separate from eating, sleeping and play areas. Ferrets need a cage and other areas to relax in outside of the cage. The cage should be a wire cage with a wire bottom. Ferrets need to be let out of the cage every day for exercise and recreation. They return to their cages to eat and sleep and need free access to it at all times.
Just as birds fly and fish swim, ferrets dig. Potted plants are a big invitation for them. Move plants to another room or put them on a high plant stand. Ferret-proof the home, as you would baby-proof it for a toddler. Due to their curiosity and fearlessness they will get into anything. They can open cabinets, get under your stove and behind or in your appliances. Ferrets are social animals. Having two ferrets keeps them from being bored if they're left alone during the day. They can be taught to do simple tricks. They love toys.
Ferrets shed their fur twice a year, in the spring and in the fall. Nails must be clipped every three to five weeks. There is a vein in each nail. Make sure you cut below the vein, otherwise your ferret will bleed for a while. Not an emergency. The ferret will be fine quite soon. People who own ferrets love them. Personally, I have trouble with the scent, which is pervasive. However, if you want a playful, active and friendly pet, the ferret may be for you.
How do you take care of a ferret? Ferret-Proofing your home.
Ferrets are related to otters, skunks and badgers. They are close relatives of the weasel, polecat and mink. Their scientific name is Mustela furo, or thief, in Latin. Ferrets are not rodents but carnivores, and in the wild they enjoy eating mice.
They have scent glands for marking and protection. While the ferret cannot spray, it can mark its territory or emit a smell when frightened. Pet stores sell descented ferrets. The scent gland is surgically removed when they are neutered or spayed. While ferrets have scent glands throughout the body, removal of the anal scent gland removes the strongest smells.
Today's domesticated ferret probably came from the Romans. The ferret was used for hunting and was helpful in hunting rabbits. Wild ferrets can kill game twice their size. Farmers and sailors used them to control rodents in barns and on ships. Rodents are afraid of the ferret's scent. Ferrets were used in early America to control rodents until poisons and traps were invented to replace them.
Ferrets have been used by Boeing to run wires through tight spaces in aircraft assemblies. They became popular as pets in the 1970's once someone learned how to de-scent them. Female ferrets weigh from 1.5 to 2.5 pounds. Males are larger, weighing from 3 to 5 pounds. Male ferrets are quieter while females are more active. They come in a variety of colors. There are also many color variations in paws, neck rings and tail tips. Ferrets mature in six months and live an average of 7 to 9 years. They are playful all of their lives. Older ferrets will even sit in your lap. Adult ferrets sleep around 15 hours a day. They will be awake when you wake up and sleep while you're gone to work. They will be ready to play when you get back home. Ferrets love to play with you, other ferrets or even other pets. They enjoy being chased and love to chase you. They like to play tug of war, run in tubes and pipes, jump on blankets, and chase balls. When a ferret gets excited it begins to dance and jump in circles. Don't be surprised if he jumps off of your sofa or runs into a wall. This usually doesn't hurt him.
All ferrets like to steal whatever they can drag away and they like to hide whatever they steal. They usually have a couple of stockpiles in your home. Once you find them, you can usually find whatever's missing. Ferrets are also intelligent. They are able to solve problems, for example, how to get in the cabinet to drag away rolls of toilet paper.
Ferrets need a high protein diet and lots of fresh water. They are not big on fish. You can feed them chicken cat food and also meat, such as turkey cold cuts. Many ferrets will not eat real meat. They should also be given small amounts of cereals, grains, fruits and vegetables. Goat's milk and cooked egg are enjoyable treats, too. A ferret will eat many small meals a day. There should be a supply of food handy for them at all times. Giving them dry food helps keep their teeth in good condition. Chocolate is toxic to ferrets. They are also lactose intolerant so don't feed them any Dairy products. Goat's milk is okay, though. It is low in lactose.
You can use cat litter for a ferret. They instinctively use one area of the cage as a toilet. Even young ferrets have this instinct. Ferrets like to keep their bathroom separate from eating, sleeping and play areas. Ferrets need a cage and other areas to relax in outside of the cage. The cage should be a wire cage with a wire bottom. Ferrets need to be let out of the cage every day for exercise and recreation. They return to their cages to eat and sleep and need free access to it at all times.
Just as birds fly and fish swim, ferrets dig. Potted plants are a big invitation for them. Move plants to another room or put them on a high plant stand. Ferret-proof the home, as you would baby-proof it for a toddler. Due to their curiosity and fearlessness they will get into anything. They can open cabinets, get under your stove and behind or in your appliances. Ferrets are social animals. Having two ferrets keeps them from being bored if they're left alone during the day. They can be taught to do simple tricks. They love toys.
Ferrets shed their fur twice a year, in the spring and in the fall. Nails must be clipped every three to five weeks. There is a vein in each nail. Make sure you cut below the vein, otherwise your ferret will bleed for a while. Not an emergency. The ferret will be fine quite soon. People who own ferrets love them. Personally, I have trouble with the scent, which is pervasive. However, if you want a playful, active and friendly pet, the ferret may be for you.
Friday, February 6, 2009
Pet Ferrets
Pet Ferrets: How To Find One
When buying a pet ferret, learn how to know if you're getting a healthy one.
Ferrets are harder than dogs and cats to purchase. In order to buy one you should avoid pet stores and find a ferret breeder. A ferret born in captivity is much more likely to be tame and sociable.
Where do you find a good ferret breeder?
Check the classified section of your local newspaper, find any local ferret clubs, and definitely get in touch with the American Ferret Association. Any one of these sources can put you in touch with a good breeder in your area.
How do you know if the breeder you've chosen is a good one and is giving you a fair price?
What kind of cage should you get for your ferret?
Ferrets like to roam free around the house most of the time. But if you want to give them a cage to stay in, wire cages are the best. The trick is to find a cage that your ferret can't escape from. Also you want to put it in a room that can almost serve as the ferret's room. Put bedding down in the cage so it has a place to relieve itself when you can't find time to take it outside.
When buying a pet ferret, learn how to know if you're getting a healthy one.
Ferrets are harder than dogs and cats to purchase. In order to buy one you should avoid pet stores and find a ferret breeder. A ferret born in captivity is much more likely to be tame and sociable.
Where do you find a good ferret breeder?
Check the classified section of your local newspaper, find any local ferret clubs, and definitely get in touch with the American Ferret Association. Any one of these sources can put you in touch with a good breeder in your area.
How do you know if the breeder you've chosen is a good one and is giving you a fair price?
- Become well educated about ferrets and ask good questions.
- Attend local ferret meetings, talk to owners etc. about how to care for a ferret.
- Responsible breeders are members of national ferret groups, meaning they subscribe to an ethical code.
- Make sure the breeder intends to keep a member of the litter.
- A good breeder will make sure you have a fairly intimate knowledge of ferrets so that you know what you're getting into.
- A good breeder is more interested in finding his animal a good home than "getting rid of it".
- A good breeder will never claim there are no problems with a ferret their selling, there's no such thing.
- Ask how long the breeder has been in business, a good breeder will have a couple of years under their belt.
- Get referrals from previous customers.
- Make sure you will receive a pedigree slip and health records for the animal.
- A good breeder will not sell a ferret before it is at least eight weeks old and weaned from their mother.
- A money back guarantee; a good breeder would rather take an animal back if you cannot take care of it.
- Find out how frequently the breeder breeds. A responsible breeder will only breed one litter per female per year.
- Find out what normal prices for ferrets are in your area, and make sure not to make any decision unless you are totally comfortable with the circumstances.
What kind of cage should you get for your ferret?
Ferrets like to roam free around the house most of the time. But if you want to give them a cage to stay in, wire cages are the best. The trick is to find a cage that your ferret can't escape from. Also you want to put it in a room that can almost serve as the ferret's room. Put bedding down in the cage so it has a place to relieve itself when you can't find time to take it outside.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Parrotlets
Parrotlets
All about parrotlets: care, diet, and why these little pint sized parrots are good pets for a person with limited space.
These birds pack all the personality and pizzazz of their much bigger cousins, the amazons. They offer all the practical advantages of smaller birds. Parrotlets are the ideal bird because they are gorgeous, colorful, and spunky and have tons of personality. They do not scream like the large parrots.
There are only three species available in the United States and they are:
The parrotlet diet contains various seed, pellets, veggies, and fruit. Under no circumstances do you want to feed your little parrot any avocado, chocolate, alcohol, or caffeine.
You do not want to use sandpaper perches for the parrotlets due to their sensitive little feet, and you don't want to use sawdust in their cages. The little parrots should be bathed once a week. You can even let them shower with you, but you must be very careful while they are in there with you.
You will want to spend quality time with your little parrot, and provide numerous toys for him to play with. They will sing and they can say very small phrases, as their vocabulary is not as large as a regular parrot.
These are the best little birds if you want a parrot and are in limited space.
There are some characteristics to look for to see if your bird is ready to train:
All about parrotlets: care, diet, and why these little pint sized parrots are good pets for a person with limited space.
These birds pack all the personality and pizzazz of their much bigger cousins, the amazons. They offer all the practical advantages of smaller birds. Parrotlets are the ideal bird because they are gorgeous, colorful, and spunky and have tons of personality. They do not scream like the large parrots.
There are only three species available in the United States and they are:
- Pacific celestial Parrotlets- most common and feisty
- Green - rumped Parrotlets- shy, sweet, and gentle
- Spectacled parrotlets- Unknown in the US before 1992.
The parrotlet diet contains various seed, pellets, veggies, and fruit. Under no circumstances do you want to feed your little parrot any avocado, chocolate, alcohol, or caffeine.
You do not want to use sandpaper perches for the parrotlets due to their sensitive little feet, and you don't want to use sawdust in their cages. The little parrots should be bathed once a week. You can even let them shower with you, but you must be very careful while they are in there with you.
You will want to spend quality time with your little parrot, and provide numerous toys for him to play with. They will sing and they can say very small phrases, as their vocabulary is not as large as a regular parrot.
These are the best little birds if you want a parrot and are in limited space.
There are some characteristics to look for to see if your bird is ready to train:
- When your bird is relaxed in the cage while you are present in the room.
- When you reach your hand in the cage to feed, water, or clean and it does not cause excessive alarm.
- When your bird is willing to take treats from your hand.
- step up
- step on a stick
- lay on his back in your hand
- allow you to touch his feet
- allow you to touch his underside
- allow you to gently lay a towel over him
- step into a travel kennel
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
The Exotic Bird Cockatoo
The Exotic Bird Cockatoo
In southern australia, where sulphur-crested cockatoos live in large flocks, the bird has evolved a warning system to avoid being caught by predators.
The sulphur-crested cockatoo is a very noisy bird. He is one of Australia's loveliest sights.
The cockatoo is found in the open wooded country of Australia. They are a sociable bird except during breeding season. They form flocks for feeding. They feed on a variety of seeds, nuts, flowers, fruits and insects. The cockatoo will return each day to the same feeding site, until the food supply is all gone. Then they restart the hunt for another site that is abundant in food, enough for the whole flock. Farmers can be extremely aggravated with them, because they eat the new seeds and young crops. But they also help by eating weeds and insects.
Sulphur crested cockatoos perform a brief courtship ritual. Both the male and female prepare the nest, they seek large holes in old trees and they will build on cliff sides. They are both responsible for the raising of the young. The male and female also protect the eggs from predators. They incubate the eggs for thirty days. When the chicks hatch, both parents continue to protect and feed them until they a three months old. At this time, they will leave the nest to hunt on their own. The sulphur-crested cockatoo has a lifespan of twenty years in the wild. In captivity they can leave up to fifty years.
The sulphur-crested cockatoo has been captured through the years for pets. They can be tamed and make very good pets. They are able to mimic human's speech, and some can remember up to 1,000 phrases.
This cockatoo is a protected species throughout Australia. They can be breed in captivity. Their population in the wild is in no threat.
In southern australia, where sulphur-crested cockatoos live in large flocks, the bird has evolved a warning system to avoid being caught by predators.
The sulphur-crested cockatoo is a very noisy bird. He is one of Australia's loveliest sights.
The cockatoo is found in the open wooded country of Australia. They are a sociable bird except during breeding season. They form flocks for feeding. They feed on a variety of seeds, nuts, flowers, fruits and insects. The cockatoo will return each day to the same feeding site, until the food supply is all gone. Then they restart the hunt for another site that is abundant in food, enough for the whole flock. Farmers can be extremely aggravated with them, because they eat the new seeds and young crops. But they also help by eating weeds and insects.
Sulphur crested cockatoos perform a brief courtship ritual. Both the male and female prepare the nest, they seek large holes in old trees and they will build on cliff sides. They are both responsible for the raising of the young. The male and female also protect the eggs from predators. They incubate the eggs for thirty days. When the chicks hatch, both parents continue to protect and feed them until they a three months old. At this time, they will leave the nest to hunt on their own. The sulphur-crested cockatoo has a lifespan of twenty years in the wild. In captivity they can leave up to fifty years.
The sulphur-crested cockatoo has been captured through the years for pets. They can be tamed and make very good pets. They are able to mimic human's speech, and some can remember up to 1,000 phrases.
This cockatoo is a protected species throughout Australia. They can be breed in captivity. Their population in the wild is in no threat.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Adopt An Orphan Bird
Should You Adopt An Orphan Bird?
You see the animal lying on the ground, but should you take it in? What precautions should you take?
It's early summer and you've found a small baby bird fluttering in the grass by a tree in your yard. Though you're not a certified physician, your conscience and your 5-year-old child both insist that you should do something to help the fledgling.
What should you do?
You see the animal lying on the ground, but should you take it in? What precautions should you take?
It's early summer and you've found a small baby bird fluttering in the grass by a tree in your yard. Though you're not a certified physician, your conscience and your 5-year-old child both insist that you should do something to help the fledgling.
What should you do?
- The best thing you can do for the bird is to leave it alone. Most likely the bird is still learning to fly and its mother will help it along.
- However, if the baby bird is in danger of becoming lunch to somebody's pet, then you should try to return the fledgling to its nest. The mother bird will have no negative reaction to the human smell of the baby bird. However, use extremely gentle care when handling the baby.
- If you can't find the nest, make one. Poke holes in a small container (so the nest won't fill with water when it rains,) and fill it with small scraps of old clothing. You can nail the nest to a nearby tree, and if the parent birds hear the baby chirping they will probably go ahead and feed it.
- Make sure the bird feels warm. If it doesn't, you should take it indoors and care for it. Place the bird in a small container with athermometer and use a heating pad or a lamp to keep the temperature at 95 degrees. Once it is warm, you may return the bird to its nest.
- If the bird is weak and cold it would be a good idea to call your local wildlife rehabilitation center. If you attempt to feed it, make sure the bird is warm first. You can feed it meal worms or earthworms. Make sure the food is soft and soaked in water.
Monday, February 2, 2009
Bonding With Adopted Older Birds
Bonding With Adopted Older Birds
How should you bond with your adopted older bird? What precautions should you take?
If you are unfamiliar with birds, you may neglect to notice certain behavioral problems that can cause trouble. Shelters are overrun with birds that were adopted by people who didn't know how to care for problematic birds. Find out as much about the bird as possible. Birds are taken to shelters for a variety of reasons. Find out why it was put up for adoption or what its background is like, if you have access to that information. This all aids in understanding your pet.
What should you do to make the bird's transition easier?
The thing that you cannot avoid doing is the quarantine period. This should last about three months. By leaving the bird in its cage, you allow the bird to acclimate to its new surroundings. If possible, maintain the bird's previous cage, old toys and same treats, to provide the bird with some sense of familiarity.
How to begin the bonding process?
When you begin bonding with your bird, take it slowly. When you approach the cage, move slowly and keep your hands behind your back. It also helps if you kneel down. If you stand over the cage, the bird can feel threatened. Anything that threatens or scares the birds adds delay to the bonding process.
After the three-month quarantine period, you can begin taking the bird out of its cage for short intervals. Do this gradually. As you gain trust with the bird, you can allow it to stay out longer. All birds must know the "step up" and "step down" commands. This gives the bird a sense of position. And make sure your bird knows who is in charge. If you don't establish yourself as the boss, then the bird will be unresponsive to commands and fly about at its own will.
How long should it take?
Let the bird decide the rate at which the bonding will follow. If you force interaction with the bird, it may reject any approach. It is also a good idea to keep its wings clipped. Unclipped wings give the bird a feeling of superiority and training will be useless.
Know a bird's likes and dislikes from the beginning to avoid angering the bird. You can find out information on the bird's previous owner, if it is banded or micro-chipped.
The main thing is to realize that each adopted bird is uncomfortable at first. It will take awhile to adjust. Patience and understanding will help to build a strong relationship with your new friend.
How should you bond with your adopted older bird? What precautions should you take?
If you are unfamiliar with birds, you may neglect to notice certain behavioral problems that can cause trouble. Shelters are overrun with birds that were adopted by people who didn't know how to care for problematic birds. Find out as much about the bird as possible. Birds are taken to shelters for a variety of reasons. Find out why it was put up for adoption or what its background is like, if you have access to that information. This all aids in understanding your pet.
What should you do to make the bird's transition easier?
The thing that you cannot avoid doing is the quarantine period. This should last about three months. By leaving the bird in its cage, you allow the bird to acclimate to its new surroundings. If possible, maintain the bird's previous cage, old toys and same treats, to provide the bird with some sense of familiarity.
How to begin the bonding process?
When you begin bonding with your bird, take it slowly. When you approach the cage, move slowly and keep your hands behind your back. It also helps if you kneel down. If you stand over the cage, the bird can feel threatened. Anything that threatens or scares the birds adds delay to the bonding process.
After the three-month quarantine period, you can begin taking the bird out of its cage for short intervals. Do this gradually. As you gain trust with the bird, you can allow it to stay out longer. All birds must know the "step up" and "step down" commands. This gives the bird a sense of position. And make sure your bird knows who is in charge. If you don't establish yourself as the boss, then the bird will be unresponsive to commands and fly about at its own will.
How long should it take?
Let the bird decide the rate at which the bonding will follow. If you force interaction with the bird, it may reject any approach. It is also a good idea to keep its wings clipped. Unclipped wings give the bird a feeling of superiority and training will be useless.
Know a bird's likes and dislikes from the beginning to avoid angering the bird. You can find out information on the bird's previous owner, if it is banded or micro-chipped.
The main thing is to realize that each adopted bird is uncomfortable at first. It will take awhile to adjust. Patience and understanding will help to build a strong relationship with your new friend.
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Bird Raising For Baby Birds
Bird Raising For Baby Birds
Raising baby birds is easy with these tips.
Raising baby birds is easy with these tips.
- Ask your vet or another pet expert what temperature would be right for your animals, and heat them appropriately. You'll want to get a thermometer so you can monitor the temperature daily. Also, it may be a good idea for you to create a place your birds can perch.
- Keep babies away from other birds. Keep babies of the same species separate from those of other species and from other birds altogether. This will protect each group of birds from bacteria and diseases that other birds might carry. Be sure to wash your hands before you handle each given group of birds.
- Feed your baby birds. How you feed the birds should be based on what you feel most comfortable with. If you are an inexperienced bird handler, you may want to spoon feed your babies, rather than feeding them via syringe. Syringes can choke a newborn if they're not used correctly. When feeding by spoon, place the utensil inside the bottom rim of the animal's mouth and tilt the food in.
- Use shredded paper as bedding. Shavings can get caught in a bird's air passages or throat and can be hazardous.
- Clean the pen daily. You want to remove any excrement as soon as you can. It contains bacteria. Baby birds may be curious about it and you want to keep them from eating it. If ingested, it can disrupt a bird's digestive system.
- After babies reach about three-months old, they'll be about ready to make the switch from formula to adult bird food. Put some formula on top of adult food, perhaps with a vegetable to lure it.
- To properly socialize baby birds, you'll want to handle them often, regularly and carefully. Play with each bird for about 15 minutes several times a day. The more you handle your pets, the faster they'll get used to being around you. This is important for proper domestication.
- Teach them to fly. When your birds appear that they are interested in trying to fly, find a room with soft flooring to help them practice. You'll want to remove any pictures and mirrors from your walls, because they will be appealing for your birds to fly into.
- Trim their wings. Use young bird clips to keep your birds from escaping and will also ensure the tameness of your animals.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Bird Breeding
Bird Breeding
What do birds do when they breed? What time of year do they do it? What are the different ways male and female birds attract each other?
What factors do you need to consider when you breed birds?
You'll want to research your species of birds carefully before you begin the breeding process to determine the proper temperature you'll need to maintain. Some birds require as much as 100-or-more-degree heat in order for their reproductive organs to begin working properly.
When breeding birds, feed them more. Give them food with more nutritional value so they can properly support their breeding effort. It takes more nutrients for them to maintain healthy and large reproductive organs, eggs, and semen. Also, crush Vitamin E tablets to assist the process. Find the diet that's right for your particular type of bird. In nature, birds eat bugs and worms during the spring. Make sure they are eating plenty of vegetables and fruits as well. If you buy bird food from a box, check the label to make sure the birds are getting the proper nutrition.
How do birds mate?
Birds breed in the spring. Male birds generally become aggressive, while females begin to build nests. Provide the necessary nesting material for your female bird. They breed at young ages and often produce many chicks each year. The females choose their partners, so it is during the spring months that male birds are at their most colorful and most intelligent.
When birds have picked their partners, the process they undertake often leads you to wonder whether copulation even happened at all. The male bird climbs onto the back of the female and she moves her tail to the side. The female's genital opening is on the other side, and the male leans onto those openings. The male and female's genitals only are pressed together for a moment or two, then the male dismounts and the process is complete.
How do you know if your bird is bearing eggs?
One major way to tell whether your female bird is bearing eggs is to notice its flight habits. The weight of the egg is often too heavy a load for the bird to handle and it won't fly much, if at all. In order for embryos to properly develop, provide your bird with water to drink.
How can you keep your bird eggs safe?
Bird eggs are incredibly fragile. They have to be in order for the birds to peck their way out when the time comes. Female birds want their eggs to be warm and secure. You can help this process in your home with an incubating light. Find out which temperature is right for your breed. You'll want to allow the mother to be near her eggs, so she can care for them. Keep potential predators away. Mother birds are always cautious about her eggs.
What do birds do when they breed? What time of year do they do it? What are the different ways male and female birds attract each other?
What factors do you need to consider when you breed birds?
You'll want to research your species of birds carefully before you begin the breeding process to determine the proper temperature you'll need to maintain. Some birds require as much as 100-or-more-degree heat in order for their reproductive organs to begin working properly.
When breeding birds, feed them more. Give them food with more nutritional value so they can properly support their breeding effort. It takes more nutrients for them to maintain healthy and large reproductive organs, eggs, and semen. Also, crush Vitamin E tablets to assist the process. Find the diet that's right for your particular type of bird. In nature, birds eat bugs and worms during the spring. Make sure they are eating plenty of vegetables and fruits as well. If you buy bird food from a box, check the label to make sure the birds are getting the proper nutrition.
How do birds mate?
Birds breed in the spring. Male birds generally become aggressive, while females begin to build nests. Provide the necessary nesting material for your female bird. They breed at young ages and often produce many chicks each year. The females choose their partners, so it is during the spring months that male birds are at their most colorful and most intelligent.
When birds have picked their partners, the process they undertake often leads you to wonder whether copulation even happened at all. The male bird climbs onto the back of the female and she moves her tail to the side. The female's genital opening is on the other side, and the male leans onto those openings. The male and female's genitals only are pressed together for a moment or two, then the male dismounts and the process is complete.
How do you know if your bird is bearing eggs?
One major way to tell whether your female bird is bearing eggs is to notice its flight habits. The weight of the egg is often too heavy a load for the bird to handle and it won't fly much, if at all. In order for embryos to properly develop, provide your bird with water to drink.
How can you keep your bird eggs safe?
Bird eggs are incredibly fragile. They have to be in order for the birds to peck their way out when the time comes. Female birds want their eggs to be warm and secure. You can help this process in your home with an incubating light. Find out which temperature is right for your breed. You'll want to allow the mother to be near her eggs, so she can care for them. Keep potential predators away. Mother birds are always cautious about her eggs.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Proper Feeding For Your Bird
Proper Feeding For Your Bird
Proper feeeding for your bird, including a recipe for a base diet.
A seed-only diet for birds is the equuivalent of feeding a 2 yr old only crackers and water; nothing else. Nowadays we know that other sources ofnutrition come from a variety of whole-food sources. These sources come from veggies (including dark, green leafy types), some fruit, and a base diet.
A recommended base diet is one including legumes, whole grain brown rice, pastas, pearl barley, thawed frozen veggies (which are the highest in nutrition), and granulated sea kelp-a natural source of necessary iodine. The recipe for a good base diet is as follows:
Cook each of the following ingredients separately.
Combine first four ingredients, mix completely. Add frozen veggies, layered on top of mixture, sprinkle lightly with granulated sea kelp. Bag individual portions and freeze. Defrost to serve.
This will be the main diet, or base, you will serve every morning at feeding time. The base diet and seed are coupled with dark, leafy greens and some fruit. The above items should be rinsed thoroughly to remove pesticides. A source of whole grains, found in Cherrios, toast, or no-salt crackers.
Follow this sure bet for optimum health in your bird. it is a menu which will increase your pet's longevity.
Happy birding!
Proper feeeding for your bird, including a recipe for a base diet.
A seed-only diet for birds is the equuivalent of feeding a 2 yr old only crackers and water; nothing else. Nowadays we know that other sources ofnutrition come from a variety of whole-food sources. These sources come from veggies (including dark, green leafy types), some fruit, and a base diet.
A recommended base diet is one including legumes, whole grain brown rice, pastas, pearl barley, thawed frozen veggies (which are the highest in nutrition), and granulated sea kelp-a natural source of necessary iodine. The recipe for a good base diet is as follows:
Cook each of the following ingredients separately.
- 1 c pearl barley to 2 c water, cook until water is absorbed.
- 1 pkg 16 bean soup mix (minus seasoning) Cover with water, bring to full boil, boil 40 min., until just tender
- 1 c lg. elbow macaroni; cover with water, boil 7 min.
- 2 pkg ramen noodles (minus seasoning) Add to macaroni, boil both 3 min. more, drain and rinse.
- 9 c frozen mixed veggies, unthawed.
Combine first four ingredients, mix completely. Add frozen veggies, layered on top of mixture, sprinkle lightly with granulated sea kelp. Bag individual portions and freeze. Defrost to serve.
This will be the main diet, or base, you will serve every morning at feeding time. The base diet and seed are coupled with dark, leafy greens and some fruit. The above items should be rinsed thoroughly to remove pesticides. A source of whole grains, found in Cherrios, toast, or no-salt crackers.
Follow this sure bet for optimum health in your bird. it is a menu which will increase your pet's longevity.
Happy birding!
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Pet Bird Care
Pet Bird Care - Birdproof Your Home
Care for your new pet bird by preparing your home for its new inhabitant.
Before you bring a bird into your home there are some things you need to consider to make your home safe for your new friend. You will most likely need to make a few changes and take some precautions to bird-proof your home. Here is a list of things to change.
Chemical Hazards.
Most cleaning products or bug sprays will harm a bird, maybe even kill it. Aerosol sprays that you use to make your house smell pretty are very dangerous to a bird. Many times there is a safer alternative to sprays and harmful chemicals such as potpourri to keep a pleasant scent in your home.
You may want to consider chili powder around window sills and doorways to keep bugs out. Any uncertainty on a spray can should be confirmed or discussed with a vet. Ask your vet about other dangers to birds.
Ceilings, Doors and Windows.
You should always clip your bird's wings. Clipping wings will discourage a variety of undesirable behaviors. However, in the event you opt not to clip wings, you should consider that three things could and most likely will become hazards.
Ceiling fans in the room with your bird pose the threat of death since without clipped wings, the bird can gain flight into the swirling fan. Doors in that room should never lead outside. If the bird escapes it will not likely return and will not survive in the wild. That goes the same for windows, never leave them open.
Freedom.
Letting your bird roam freely will enhance your relationship with your bird. However, you must consider any hazards to a bird. A variety of everyday products will pose threats to your birds safety. These things include: electrical wires, cords, outlets, and certain foods. Certain foods we eat may cause death or illness to a bird.
If you take these steps in bird-proofing your home you will enjoy a fruitful life with your bird.
What human foods are harmful to birds?
While you may hear stories of your friends feeding your birds all kinds of fun human foods, all human foods are not always safe for birds. A good rule of thumb is to pretty much stick to feeding your birds fruits and bread products, if you must feed them something. Some foods that are toxic to birds include chocolate, aspirin, coffee, alcohol, and wild mushrooms.
Care for your new pet bird by preparing your home for its new inhabitant.
Before you bring a bird into your home there are some things you need to consider to make your home safe for your new friend. You will most likely need to make a few changes and take some precautions to bird-proof your home. Here is a list of things to change.
Chemical Hazards.
Most cleaning products or bug sprays will harm a bird, maybe even kill it. Aerosol sprays that you use to make your house smell pretty are very dangerous to a bird. Many times there is a safer alternative to sprays and harmful chemicals such as potpourri to keep a pleasant scent in your home.
You may want to consider chili powder around window sills and doorways to keep bugs out. Any uncertainty on a spray can should be confirmed or discussed with a vet. Ask your vet about other dangers to birds.
Ceilings, Doors and Windows.
You should always clip your bird's wings. Clipping wings will discourage a variety of undesirable behaviors. However, in the event you opt not to clip wings, you should consider that three things could and most likely will become hazards.
Ceiling fans in the room with your bird pose the threat of death since without clipped wings, the bird can gain flight into the swirling fan. Doors in that room should never lead outside. If the bird escapes it will not likely return and will not survive in the wild. That goes the same for windows, never leave them open.
Freedom.
Letting your bird roam freely will enhance your relationship with your bird. However, you must consider any hazards to a bird. A variety of everyday products will pose threats to your birds safety. These things include: electrical wires, cords, outlets, and certain foods. Certain foods we eat may cause death or illness to a bird.
If you take these steps in bird-proofing your home you will enjoy a fruitful life with your bird.
What human foods are harmful to birds?
While you may hear stories of your friends feeding your birds all kinds of fun human foods, all human foods are not always safe for birds. A good rule of thumb is to pretty much stick to feeding your birds fruits and bread products, if you must feed them something. Some foods that are toxic to birds include chocolate, aspirin, coffee, alcohol, and wild mushrooms.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Purchasing A First Bird
Purchasing A First Bird: Breeder Vs Pet Store
The differences between purchasing a bird through a bird breeder or a pet store.
Congratulations! After much consideration and research, you have decided a bird will suit both you and your lifestyle. I assure you, you will not be disappaointed! The "bird world" is exciting, colorful and emotionally fulfilling.
Now that you've decided which species of hookbill or waxbill you choose, the next question should be "Where do I GET a bird?" This article will deal with the two top favorites of acquiring your new family member. These choices are through 1) A bird breeder 2) Commercial pet shop.
A breeder is considered professional if 30 or more birds are sold per year. Any less and they are referred to as a hobbyist breeder. Fifteen years ago, the breeder simply bred birds, selling babies directly out of the nest, or relying on an experienced handfeeder for the weaning process. The handfeeder charged a separate fee for services rendered. Nowadays, it is more common for the breeder to include handfeeding before releasing possession to the new owner. There are both pros and cons to this method. A handfeeder can still be hired for their services, after checking out thir environment and workplace, and most certainly checking on supplied references. Only an experienced handfeeder should be considered! A private handfeeder will wean your baby until it is fully weaned, the duration of which depends on the species. No reputable breeder or handfeeder will releae a baby without it being FULLY weaned, regardless of the time involved.
Professional handfeeders generally do not take on more than they can handle. This means their services are usually on a more personal level, with more intense dedication. Much time is spent on socialization and human/bird bonding techniques. Ideally the baby is abundantly weaned and is raised with loving dedication, patience, and mutual respect.
If your bird is purchased from a professional breeder, they will be the one to handfeed and successfully wean. This is generally included in the buying price. This is good in terms of natural socialization i.e. interacting with other baby birds, a breeder may be more able to offer this important, but not absolutely necessary, service. Most professionals are already overworked and important undertakings. There simply may not be the time available to ensure abundant weaning, playtime and personal interaction, which are crucial for a companion pet bird. This is mostly due to a lack of time, but also one of interest at times. After-sale support should also be available and will be offered by reputable breeders and handfeeders. No matter how many years you may have in bird experience, there is always new information and knowledge being learned by all of us, all the while unselfishly passing on the information being learned.
We will now consider another alternative-the commercial pet shop. Keep in mind, a pet shop may not specialize in birds, including crucial after-sale support. If your bird turns ill, or is acting in a peculiar manner, or questions arise, you will need somewhere to turn, who is familiar with your bird and type, to fully anser these.
Pet shops are in business for one reason-PROFIT. When this is the motivator, I caution you-BUYER BEWARE! Below are listed 10 considerations you must ask to ensure both you and your bird's needs are met:
The best thing you can offer your new baby is taking the time and effort to continue learning all you can with issues like feeding, health, characteristics, etc., can be learned by one-on-one sessions with other bird owners, published literature, books and magazines, as well as joining your local avicultural organization. We learn nothing by ourselves-it must be passed along!
Having a companion pet bird owner will be one of the most enjoyable, satisfying relationships you will ever find yourself in. Happy birding!
The differences between purchasing a bird through a bird breeder or a pet store.
Congratulations! After much consideration and research, you have decided a bird will suit both you and your lifestyle. I assure you, you will not be disappaointed! The "bird world" is exciting, colorful and emotionally fulfilling.
Now that you've decided which species of hookbill or waxbill you choose, the next question should be "Where do I GET a bird?" This article will deal with the two top favorites of acquiring your new family member. These choices are through 1) A bird breeder 2) Commercial pet shop.
A breeder is considered professional if 30 or more birds are sold per year. Any less and they are referred to as a hobbyist breeder. Fifteen years ago, the breeder simply bred birds, selling babies directly out of the nest, or relying on an experienced handfeeder for the weaning process. The handfeeder charged a separate fee for services rendered. Nowadays, it is more common for the breeder to include handfeeding before releasing possession to the new owner. There are both pros and cons to this method. A handfeeder can still be hired for their services, after checking out thir environment and workplace, and most certainly checking on supplied references. Only an experienced handfeeder should be considered! A private handfeeder will wean your baby until it is fully weaned, the duration of which depends on the species. No reputable breeder or handfeeder will releae a baby without it being FULLY weaned, regardless of the time involved.
Professional handfeeders generally do not take on more than they can handle. This means their services are usually on a more personal level, with more intense dedication. Much time is spent on socialization and human/bird bonding techniques. Ideally the baby is abundantly weaned and is raised with loving dedication, patience, and mutual respect.
If your bird is purchased from a professional breeder, they will be the one to handfeed and successfully wean. This is generally included in the buying price. This is good in terms of natural socialization i.e. interacting with other baby birds, a breeder may be more able to offer this important, but not absolutely necessary, service. Most professionals are already overworked and important undertakings. There simply may not be the time available to ensure abundant weaning, playtime and personal interaction, which are crucial for a companion pet bird. This is mostly due to a lack of time, but also one of interest at times. After-sale support should also be available and will be offered by reputable breeders and handfeeders. No matter how many years you may have in bird experience, there is always new information and knowledge being learned by all of us, all the while unselfishly passing on the information being learned.
We will now consider another alternative-the commercial pet shop. Keep in mind, a pet shop may not specialize in birds, including crucial after-sale support. If your bird turns ill, or is acting in a peculiar manner, or questions arise, you will need somewhere to turn, who is familiar with your bird and type, to fully anser these.
Pet shops are in business for one reason-PROFIT. When this is the motivator, I caution you-BUYER BEWARE! Below are listed 10 considerations you must ask to ensure both you and your bird's needs are met:
- Check for proper licensing and operating permits necessary for your geopgraphical location.
- Are their babies handfed or parent-raised
- Take a good, close look, expecially keeping an eye out for cleanliness and disease-free animals
- Is a health guarantee offered
- Are well-health vet checks offered
- Do they offer after-sale support
- Upon request, can they provide references
- Determine if it is a long-term business or fly-by-night
- Are they experts in aviculture
- How involved will you be in the weaning process
The best thing you can offer your new baby is taking the time and effort to continue learning all you can with issues like feeding, health, characteristics, etc., can be learned by one-on-one sessions with other bird owners, published literature, books and magazines, as well as joining your local avicultural organization. We learn nothing by ourselves-it must be passed along!
Having a companion pet bird owner will be one of the most enjoyable, satisfying relationships you will ever find yourself in. Happy birding!
Monday, January 26, 2009
Talking Birds
Talking Birds
Tips and tricks of turning your talking bird into a conversationalist. One of the joys of owning a cockatiel or macaw is the satisfaction of teaching it how to talk.
The good news is that you just bought a parrot and are looking forward to hours of happy chatter. The bad news is that it's now 6 months later and your feather friend (1) has yet to utter a single peep, or (2) uses language that would make a sailor blush. It's a disappointment or embarrassment to many new owners, yet one that could be avoided with recognition of a simple fact: It's not the bird's fault.
NEW BIRD PRE-OWNED
"What you hear is what you get" should be the watchword of bird purchases, especially if your heart is really set on one of the talking varieties such as budgies, cockatiels, or macaws. Suffice it to say, though, do you and your family really have the time and the patience to train a young bird from scratch to recite companionable phrases just to entertain you? Likewise, are you prepared for the possibility that, in spite of all the coaxing and fond attention, your little friend just may not have the wits or inclination to speak up?
The flip side, obviously, is to consider adopting an older bird that has already demonstrated that it's capable of communication. "Previously owned" birds, however, come with their own set of challenges. While relocation, health, and financial considerations have forced many a pet owner's decision to sell, just as many animals birds included end up in the classifieds or pet shops because of problem behavior. If your bird of choice is certifiably a talker, you might want to inquire if profanity is part of its "colorful" vocabulary before you take it home and host a luncheon for your minister.
YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE SAYING
Just because Baretta's comical cockatiel, Fred, could answer a telephone didn't mean he could also answer questions and take a message. Although some species of birds are capable of mastering a large vocabulary, you mustn't confuse mimicry with actual conversation; they are simply repeating (or "parroting") what they've learned by rote without attaching any intellectual value to it. You can certainly, of course, invest the time in getting your pet to associate specific sounds or phrases with other actions (i.e., feeding, playing, etc.) but, again, any higher expectation would be akin to buying a Ferbie in the hope it will one day start spouting original opinions.
CONTINUITY IS THE KEY
It is important to always use the same words or phrases when trying to teach a bird to speak. To use the analogy of puppy-training, the words, "Don't jump" and "Stay down" may mean exactly the same thing to us, but the ears for whom the message is intended will hear two completely different things and, accordingly, take twice as long to discern what's being asked. It's also a wise idea not to incorporate whistling in the early stages of your bird's education. Oftentimes the bird will discover on its own that whistling is much easier to do than repeat silly words all day and will abandon the latter altogether. Whatever you attempt to teach your little friend, of course, should be something you won't mind listening to over and over and over and well, you get the picture.
TWO OF A KIND
If your bird is going to spend a lot of its waking hours home alone, there may be a temptation to buy it a cage-mate. While it may indeed appreciate one of its own kind with whom to pass the lonely hours, you could unwittingly sabotage your previous and current efforts to teach it to talk. "Why should I learn to speak a foreign language," the bird may rationalize, "when I can yak away in my native tongue to this new kid?" Better that your bird have already mastered the rudiments of repetition before you introduce a companion who might literally be a bird-brain and bad influence.
Some owners have resolved the loneliness issue by leaving a radio or television playing near the cage. You can, thus, imagine their startlement when Perry the Parrot lethally declares one evening, "We have to kill Stefano" or breaks into a stream of raunchy rapper lyrics. As a responsible pet parent, you need to closely monitor your child's listening habits, especially if he or she possesses the power to repeat everything back to you. (Dogs, cats, hamsters, and fish, of course, can continue to listen to whatever makes them happy.)
In the event your winged pal has picked up some unsavory dialogue, the best thing you can do is simply ignore it and continue to reinforce the more positive aspects of its vocal contributions to the household. Just like human children who pick up a swear word at school and then test it out at home, the intent is to get attention; if the behavior isn't acknowledged, it will eventually cease.
FINAL NOTE
Maybe your bird will never utter a single intelligible syllable in its entire life. That doesn't mean it should be punished, yelled at, or regarded as hopelessly stupid. In making the decision to bring a living creature into your life that will give you unconditional love, you owe it the same in return. Whether or not it rewards you with song, interminable chatter, or simply silence, it is nonetheless a pet deserving of all the affection and care you can give. If you can put the talent for talking in the category of "an added extra," you will never be disappointed in your choice.
Tips and tricks of turning your talking bird into a conversationalist. One of the joys of owning a cockatiel or macaw is the satisfaction of teaching it how to talk.
The good news is that you just bought a parrot and are looking forward to hours of happy chatter. The bad news is that it's now 6 months later and your feather friend (1) has yet to utter a single peep, or (2) uses language that would make a sailor blush. It's a disappointment or embarrassment to many new owners, yet one that could be avoided with recognition of a simple fact: It's not the bird's fault.
NEW BIRD PRE-OWNED
"What you hear is what you get" should be the watchword of bird purchases, especially if your heart is really set on one of the talking varieties such as budgies, cockatiels, or macaws. Suffice it to say, though, do you and your family really have the time and the patience to train a young bird from scratch to recite companionable phrases just to entertain you? Likewise, are you prepared for the possibility that, in spite of all the coaxing and fond attention, your little friend just may not have the wits or inclination to speak up?
The flip side, obviously, is to consider adopting an older bird that has already demonstrated that it's capable of communication. "Previously owned" birds, however, come with their own set of challenges. While relocation, health, and financial considerations have forced many a pet owner's decision to sell, just as many animals birds included end up in the classifieds or pet shops because of problem behavior. If your bird of choice is certifiably a talker, you might want to inquire if profanity is part of its "colorful" vocabulary before you take it home and host a luncheon for your minister.
YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE SAYING
Just because Baretta's comical cockatiel, Fred, could answer a telephone didn't mean he could also answer questions and take a message. Although some species of birds are capable of mastering a large vocabulary, you mustn't confuse mimicry with actual conversation; they are simply repeating (or "parroting") what they've learned by rote without attaching any intellectual value to it. You can certainly, of course, invest the time in getting your pet to associate specific sounds or phrases with other actions (i.e., feeding, playing, etc.) but, again, any higher expectation would be akin to buying a Ferbie in the hope it will one day start spouting original opinions.
CONTINUITY IS THE KEY
It is important to always use the same words or phrases when trying to teach a bird to speak. To use the analogy of puppy-training, the words, "Don't jump" and "Stay down" may mean exactly the same thing to us, but the ears for whom the message is intended will hear two completely different things and, accordingly, take twice as long to discern what's being asked. It's also a wise idea not to incorporate whistling in the early stages of your bird's education. Oftentimes the bird will discover on its own that whistling is much easier to do than repeat silly words all day and will abandon the latter altogether. Whatever you attempt to teach your little friend, of course, should be something you won't mind listening to over and over and over and well, you get the picture.
TWO OF A KIND
If your bird is going to spend a lot of its waking hours home alone, there may be a temptation to buy it a cage-mate. While it may indeed appreciate one of its own kind with whom to pass the lonely hours, you could unwittingly sabotage your previous and current efforts to teach it to talk. "Why should I learn to speak a foreign language," the bird may rationalize, "when I can yak away in my native tongue to this new kid?" Better that your bird have already mastered the rudiments of repetition before you introduce a companion who might literally be a bird-brain and bad influence.
Some owners have resolved the loneliness issue by leaving a radio or television playing near the cage. You can, thus, imagine their startlement when Perry the Parrot lethally declares one evening, "We have to kill Stefano" or breaks into a stream of raunchy rapper lyrics. As a responsible pet parent, you need to closely monitor your child's listening habits, especially if he or she possesses the power to repeat everything back to you. (Dogs, cats, hamsters, and fish, of course, can continue to listen to whatever makes them happy.)
In the event your winged pal has picked up some unsavory dialogue, the best thing you can do is simply ignore it and continue to reinforce the more positive aspects of its vocal contributions to the household. Just like human children who pick up a swear word at school and then test it out at home, the intent is to get attention; if the behavior isn't acknowledged, it will eventually cease.
FINAL NOTE
Maybe your bird will never utter a single intelligible syllable in its entire life. That doesn't mean it should be punished, yelled at, or regarded as hopelessly stupid. In making the decision to bring a living creature into your life that will give you unconditional love, you owe it the same in return. Whether or not it rewards you with song, interminable chatter, or simply silence, it is nonetheless a pet deserving of all the affection and care you can give. If you can put the talent for talking in the category of "an added extra," you will never be disappointed in your choice.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
All About Javelina Rodents
All About Javelina Rodents
Learn all about javelinas rodents or peccaries: wild pigs of the desert, that travel in herds and are quite interesting...once you get past their smell.
The Javelina (Dicotyles tajacu) is also known as a collared peccary, tayaussa, or musk hog. It is the only wild relative of the pig family in the United States. Javelinas are members of the Tayassuidae Family. True pigs are members of the Suidae Family.
This wild pig can be found in the brushy deserts, rocky canyons, and wastelands of the Chihuahuan and Sonoran Deserts with their territory extending from southern and central Arizona to New Mexico and south and central Texas, then spreading south into Mexico. They live in areas near water, brush and cactus, especially around the prickly pear plant. Their dens are made of hollows in the ground.
Javelinas tend to stay near permanent sources of water. Unlike coyotes and bobcats who share the same habitat, javelinas are unable to evaporate moisture through panting to prevent overheating. Therefore, during the midday heat, javelinas must rest in the shade and forage for food when it's cooler.
The adult male javelina ranges from 46 to 60 inches in length and is usually 20 to 24 inches in height. The adult male weighs between 40 and 60 pounds. It is colored a grizzled black and gray with a dark dorsal stripe, but it is lighter around the shoulders. The fur is very coarse. The javelina has an inconspicuous tail and a pig-like snout. The javelina has 2 hooves on each foot. There are four toes on the forefeet and three on the hind feet. The javelina's upper tusks are 1.5 inches long and are pointed down rather than curled as with some other feral wild pigs. In adults there is a mane that extends down the crown of the head to the rump, which is most obvious when the javelina is excited.
Breeding occurs during any time of the year. Females usually give birth to two young after a gestation period of 145 days. The young are reddish to yellow-brown in color.
Javelinas usually travel in a band from 6 to 12 although as many as 50 have been seen together. The large groups offers them protection from predators. They are most active during early morning and evening when it is cooler.
Javelinas also have a powerful musk gland on the top of the rump. Their odor is always apparent, especially when they are excited. You may smell a javelina before you see it.
They also make a lot of noise. They grunt and squeal and be quite skittish to humans. They have been known to charge when they or their young are in danger, but under most circumstances, they will run from humans.
Learn all about javelinas rodents or peccaries: wild pigs of the desert, that travel in herds and are quite interesting...once you get past their smell.
The Javelina (Dicotyles tajacu) is also known as a collared peccary, tayaussa, or musk hog. It is the only wild relative of the pig family in the United States. Javelinas are members of the Tayassuidae Family. True pigs are members of the Suidae Family.
This wild pig can be found in the brushy deserts, rocky canyons, and wastelands of the Chihuahuan and Sonoran Deserts with their territory extending from southern and central Arizona to New Mexico and south and central Texas, then spreading south into Mexico. They live in areas near water, brush and cactus, especially around the prickly pear plant. Their dens are made of hollows in the ground.
Javelinas tend to stay near permanent sources of water. Unlike coyotes and bobcats who share the same habitat, javelinas are unable to evaporate moisture through panting to prevent overheating. Therefore, during the midday heat, javelinas must rest in the shade and forage for food when it's cooler.
The adult male javelina ranges from 46 to 60 inches in length and is usually 20 to 24 inches in height. The adult male weighs between 40 and 60 pounds. It is colored a grizzled black and gray with a dark dorsal stripe, but it is lighter around the shoulders. The fur is very coarse. The javelina has an inconspicuous tail and a pig-like snout. The javelina has 2 hooves on each foot. There are four toes on the forefeet and three on the hind feet. The javelina's upper tusks are 1.5 inches long and are pointed down rather than curled as with some other feral wild pigs. In adults there is a mane that extends down the crown of the head to the rump, which is most obvious when the javelina is excited.
Breeding occurs during any time of the year. Females usually give birth to two young after a gestation period of 145 days. The young are reddish to yellow-brown in color.
Javelinas usually travel in a band from 6 to 12 although as many as 50 have been seen together. The large groups offers them protection from predators. They are most active during early morning and evening when it is cooler.
Javelinas also have a powerful musk gland on the top of the rump. Their odor is always apparent, especially when they are excited. You may smell a javelina before you see it.
They also make a lot of noise. They grunt and squeal and be quite skittish to humans. They have been known to charge when they or their young are in danger, but under most circumstances, they will run from humans.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)