Saturday, January 3, 2009

Pet Rabbit Care

Pet Rabbit Care


Pet rabbit care: Rabbits make great pets. They are quiet and can be house-trained. Proper care and feeding are important but not difficult.
Rabbits in the wild live in large groups and usually only range as far as one or two acres. They explore and get to know their territory very well. They need to know this because rabbits are prey for other animals, and their only defense is their speed in running away. Rabbits are also territorial animals; they take ownership of their turf and they know it well.

A house rabbit needs its own place in your home. By nature, as prey, rabbits need a place that is theirs where they can feel safe from harm. Some people keep a large cage that's open so that their pet can come and go as it pleases.

Cedar shavings should never be used, as they are harmful to rabbits. Rabbits can be easily housetrained to go in a specific area. They will use a litterbox or two if provided. They don't go in the box just because it's there, so it's up to the owner to put the litterbox where the rabbit likes to go. Newspapers are good as litter. It helps to have a light portable vacuum like a Dustbuster to pick up the odd stray poop pellet.

Your home needs to be rabbit proofed unless you want to supervise it all day. Rabbits will chew on wood and wires if not discouraged. Rabbits are from the rodent family; so, as their teeth grow, they need to gnaw on wood to wear down their teeth a bit. Keep houseplants away from them. Rabbits are vegetarians and will love chewing on your plants.

Although rabbits are vegetarians, they tend to eat anything they like (crackers, for example). Rabbits eat constantly and need a lot of fiber. Good hay is important. Don't buy inferior quality stuff; your rabbit won't eat it.

Rabbits love carrot tops, spinach, broccoli, and other green vegetables. They'll eat all the lettuce you can give them, but it's important not to rely too heavily on lettuce as it has little nutritional value. Some enjoy fruit, but be very careful with anything new in the diet. Rabbits' small digestive systems can't handle a lot of change, and rabbits will get diarrhea from a large serving of fruit like plums or peaches. Lots of fresh water is essential for a rabbit's health. Rabbits need access to fresh water all day.

With a good variety of fresh food; fresh water; and a clean, cool environment, rabbits should live for seven to ten years. They don't get colds or viral infections, but they can get bacterial infections. When your rabbit appears ill, it's important to see an exotic animal veterinarian. Regular vets don't have the training to know your rabbit very well.

Part of the rabbit's defense mechanism is its eyes. Rabbits are capable of seeing in every direction to spy possible predators or other threats. The ears are sensitive, too. When at attention, rabbits' ears will stand up; when relaxed, their ears will lie down along their backs. Never pick up a rabbit by the ears; instead, do it by placing one hand under the chest between the front feet and the other under the rump. The nose should never be touched either.

Friday, January 2, 2009

A Rabbit As A Pet

Should You Buy A Rabbit As A Pet?


What kinds of things should you consider before buying a rabbit as a pet? How do you know how much work it will be? How do you know if a rabbit will fit in well in your home?

Choosing your rabbit is the most basic and important decision you make before starting to care for it. You want to find a rabbit that is disease-free. This isn't necessarily as difficult as it may sound. You need to inspect a potential pet rabbit for any signs of disease. Most rabbits at a pet store have been vaccinated and mostly likely will be completely healthy. However, at a shelter many rabbits come to the shelter diseased. This isn't to scare you away from shelters; there are many reputable shelters. You just need to know what to look for.

Clean coat.
Healthy rabbits will have clean coats. Run your hands over the fur of the rabbit. Look for bald spots or any trace of parasites.

Weight.

If a rabbit is underweight it has a chance or a susceptibility to disease. Feel along the rabbit's back and sides. If you can feel its spine and ribs, it may be underweight. Rabbits with a normal body weight will have a good layer of meat or fat over it's bones.

Watery eyes.
Good clear eyes is one sign of good health. If a rabbit has excessive discharge or a watery film over it's eyes it is likely diseased.

Breath rate.

If the rabbit is panting or short of breath this is another sign of a variety of diseases. You should not be able to hear the rabbit breathing. If it wheezes or breaths audibly or takes more sixty breaths per minute, something is interfering with its breaths or an infection in it's lungs.

Teeth.
Lift the lips away from the rabbit's teeth. The main incisor should be healthy, white and with plenty of enamel. Also notice the rabbit's bite. If the bottom and upper teeth close and fit together snugly this is another
sign of good health. If the rabbit has an abnormal bite, it could unintentionally bite down on its lip. This cut could become infected without your knowing.

Demeanor.
The easiest and always tell-tale sign of bad health. If the animal seems sluggish or reserved. Notice the rabbit's behavior outside the cage. A rabbit is always, by nature inspecting and fussing around. If the rabbit stands about, it may have some sort of health problem.

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Hamster Diseases

Hamster Diseases

Diseases and conditions common to hamsters: allergies, colds, dietary problems, heatstroke, wet tail, hair loss, parasites, abscesses, tumors.
A fact of life is that pets are not immortal. With hamsters, their life span is considerably shorter than ours, living, at best, from two to three years.

While they are alive, a pet owner has the responsibility to help the hamster maintain a healthy existence. It is important to know your hamster's behavior so if there is a change, professional help can be obtained. Knowing its eating patterns, its appearance, density of its hair, natural aroma, etc. can help an owner obtain help at the first sign of a problem.

Some of the more common signs of illness are:
  • uncharacteristic lethargy, especially at playtime (late afternoon and evening)
  • a lack of appetite
  • diarrhea
  • presence of moisture around the hamster's rear end (classic sign of wet tail)
  • a deterioration in the quality, density, and texture of its hair
  • swollen abdomen,
  • incessant scratching
  • failure to tend to routine grooming
  • unusual odor
  • drinking excessive amounts of water or excessive urination (kidney disease, diabetes, or adrenal disease)
  • circling behavior (acute sign of ear infection)
  • development of lumps or bumps under the skin (tumors or abscesses)
  • eye discharge

The owner who interacts regularly with his hamster will notice these things and be able to attend to them rapidly.

Prevention is most important. Proper diet is fundamental. Feeding the hamster the highest quality in a balance keeps fat to a minimum. Fresh clean water is vital. The hamster's cage must be kept clean and dry and away from drafts or direct sunlight. It is also important to keep the pet's stress level to a minimum.

Even with the most diligent care, hamsters are not immortal. After his first or second birthday, changes will be evident. A diligent owner will know when the changes are due to age or if age is part of it. If not, a veterinarian can help.

Some ailments to be aware of are:

Allergies: Symptoms such as red feet, sneezing, watery eyes, and hair loss or dry skin in an otherwise healthy hamster indicates allergy. This is either an allergy to certain foods or bedding products. Monitoring food intake and eliminating one thing at a time can help you determine what it is an allergy to. In addition, try changing the bedding to something different. Suggestions for food substitutes are white rice, white bread, fresh vegetables and fruit, or cereal such as corn flakes. Stay away from anything with high sugar content, as hamsters (especially dwarf Russians) are prone to diabetes.

Colds:
Just like humans, hamsters get colds. Keep them away from drafts and dampness. If the hamster has symptoms such as watery eyes, runny nose, sneezing, and lethargy, he most likely has a cold. He will probably be curled up in a corner and feel cool to the touch. Colds in hamsters can become deadly if not monitored. Keep the cage away from drafts and provide an artificial light source to add warmth. A lukewarm solution of equal parts milk and water with a touch of honey can be given to the hamster. If the hamster shows no improvement after two days, see the veterinarian.

Diarrhea: Do not feed the hamster EXCESSIVE green vegetables or change the diet EXCESSIVELY as this might cause diarrhea. Green vegetables are good, but not an excessive amount. A hamster with diarrhea has a dirty cage and is dirty as well. Go to all dry food until the condition stops.

Heatstroke: If a hamster's cage is kept too close to a heat source or in direct sunlight it can overheat. If the fur is damp and the hamster is unresponsive, you should immediately start cooling him down by pouring cool water over him and making him drink. If he doesn't seem to come back to himself shortly, go right to the veterinarian.

Wet Tail: This most prevalent hamster disease (proliferative ileitis) is a bacterial illness causing sever diarrhea and can prove fatal. It is common in newly acquired hamsters. Stress and sudden change are common causes as are habitat overcrowding, extreme temperatures, and unsanitary living conditions. The telltale sign is a wet tail. Treatment includes antibiotics, fluid therapy, and anti-diarrhea medicine that must be gotten at a veterinarian since hamsters can have severe reactions to medication. Survival is directly linked to the quality of nursing and the quality of the environment.

Hair Loss: If hair loss is accompanied by increased thirst, it is a classic sign of adrenal disease, which may require surgery. It may also be a sign of thyroid disease or, in females, reproductive tract diseases.

Parasites: Hair loss and skin problems can be caused by parasites (mites) that cause mange. These mites are usually a dormant resident on hamsters, but become active when another serious internal illness arises. A veterinarian should be contacted.

Abscesses: Hamsters are prone to these, so the owner should look for bumps and lumps on the skin. Tumors are also a possibility. See the veterinarian for anything found on the hamster's body that doesn't look normal.

A pet owner has the responsibility to help the hamster maintain a healthy existence and care for him when and if problems arise.