How To Care For Iguana
A useful aid for anyone who is going to raise a new iguana, it provides useful information on food, cages, and care for these reptiles
Are you tired of cats and dogs? Maybe a more exotic pet is what you need. Although they won't cuddle or purr, an iguana will provide unlimited entertainment if raised well. It is like owning your own miniature dinosaur. Hopefully, if you decide to take the scaly road these simple steps will allow your new green friend to live a long healthy life.
First of all you need a cage for you new reptile. Naturally the store bought cages are convenient, however they can be expensive. I suggest the do it yourself method. All you will need is wood, screening, lighting, and some creativity. The greatest consideration will be the size of your cage because within three years your iguana will reach its full-grown size. This can be as long as six feet, so the cage must be roomy. You will also want to make the bottom easily accessible so food and water can be changed frequently. Most important is that you include UV lighting, which provides fake sunlight for your pet. Without this light the iguana is unable to digest food and will never become full-grown. You can buy these lights at your local pet stores, but everything else will be at a hardware store.
You will also want to buy a heating source for the cage; this can be a heat rock or a red heat lamp. If you decide to use a lamp make sure the iguana does not come within a foot of it, iguanas are very attracted to heat and if they stay to close to the lamp they will be burned. For a final touch you should fill the cage with some sticks. These you don't need to buy, your local forest has a large supply. Make sure you wash each stick before placing it in the cage though.
For a food supply you should use a variety of greens found at your grocery store. Never use iceberg lettuce, the iguanas find it very delicious but it has very little nutrients. Romaine lettuce provides a great start for an iguana diet. Other than this mix in a variety of fruits and vegetables. However, avoid acidic fruits such as oranges; these will harm your pet. Water must always be present in the cage and it must be cleaned frequently because iguanas tend to dirty their water a lot. You may even want to put some mulch or fake grass on the bottom of the cage to make it seem more like the tropics.
Congratulations you have set up an excellent iguana care facility. Remember when you get your new pet leave them alone for a week or so to adjust to the cage and feeding times. Soon after you can begin handling your pet. Don't be discouraged if they bite at first, you must remember to stay strong so the iguana can see who is in charge. On top of all of this you must not forget like any pet, your iguana may need special care and you have to locate a veterinarian that can handle reptiles. It is also a good idea to get yearly check ups. Soon, with proper care and love you will be taking your new iguana for walks outside to show off all of your hard work and dedication.
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Friday, February 13, 2009
Information On Iguanas
Information On Iguanas
Need information to care for your pet Iguana? This will tell all about iguanas and their nutrition, housing, growth, maintenance, behavior,health concerns, offspring, and what to feed them.
The Iguana is a tree-living, and daylight-active lizard found in the subtropical region form Northern Mexico to Central South America. There are three common colors of Iguanas they are: brown, green, and orange. There are also three different types of Iguanas and they are: Chuckawalla, Desert, and Green.
Although Iguanas are cute when they are young they can grow to be 4-7 feet in length, 6-9 inches in height, and weigh 10-20 pounds.They may start in a 10 gallon tank or aquarium and eventually will require a much larger space. They are very high in maintenance so careful consideration should be taken before buying one. Iguanas require a lot of attention, and care. If well maintained and well taken care of the Iguana can live 11 or more years.
An Iguanas temperament will vary from one to another. Some like to be held and some just tolerate it.They will bite if provoked.
Feeding an Iguana consists of many things : plant proteins, carbohydrates, fiber and very little fat. They need moisture in their food to offset the dry environment. Healthy vegetables to feed them are; green beans, snap peas, snow peas, orange vegetables, such as squashes, and carrots, parsnips, and turnips. Healthy fruits such as, strawberries, mango, papaya, apple, and cantaloupe. Healthy greens are: collard, mustard, dandelion, escarole, kale and chard. On the average it will cost about $30.00 to feed an Iguana a month.
There are some health concerns for the Iguanas such as; metabolic bone disease, kidney failure, respiratory infections, and mouth problems. There are two very common behaviors the Iguanas have and they are head bobbing, and sneezing. Head bobbing can be a territorial display or a mating ritual. Sneezing is very common because Iguanas cannot sweat like a human so they sneeze to excrete salt.
Need information to care for your pet Iguana? This will tell all about iguanas and their nutrition, housing, growth, maintenance, behavior,health concerns, offspring, and what to feed them.
The Iguana is a tree-living, and daylight-active lizard found in the subtropical region form Northern Mexico to Central South America. There are three common colors of Iguanas they are: brown, green, and orange. There are also three different types of Iguanas and they are: Chuckawalla, Desert, and Green.
Although Iguanas are cute when they are young they can grow to be 4-7 feet in length, 6-9 inches in height, and weigh 10-20 pounds.They may start in a 10 gallon tank or aquarium and eventually will require a much larger space. They are very high in maintenance so careful consideration should be taken before buying one. Iguanas require a lot of attention, and care. If well maintained and well taken care of the Iguana can live 11 or more years.
An Iguanas temperament will vary from one to another. Some like to be held and some just tolerate it.They will bite if provoked.
Feeding an Iguana consists of many things : plant proteins, carbohydrates, fiber and very little fat. They need moisture in their food to offset the dry environment. Healthy vegetables to feed them are; green beans, snap peas, snow peas, orange vegetables, such as squashes, and carrots, parsnips, and turnips. Healthy fruits such as, strawberries, mango, papaya, apple, and cantaloupe. Healthy greens are: collard, mustard, dandelion, escarole, kale and chard. On the average it will cost about $30.00 to feed an Iguana a month.
There are some health concerns for the Iguanas such as; metabolic bone disease, kidney failure, respiratory infections, and mouth problems. There are two very common behaviors the Iguanas have and they are head bobbing, and sneezing. Head bobbing can be a territorial display or a mating ritual. Sneezing is very common because Iguanas cannot sweat like a human so they sneeze to excrete salt.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Basilisk Lizard
Basilisk Lizard
What kind of lizard can walk on water?
How does it do that?
Why does it walk on water?
How does the basilisk run on water?
There is a reptile, named the basilisk, with four legs that is known for its ability to walk or run on water. It has the unique ability to get a running start and just keeps on running. With such a light body and such large feet, it can literally run on water as far as a quarter mile! The basilisk's hind toes have scales that help it along and act as water skis. However, if it ever slows while on the surface, it can sink. Some basilisks can even take their running on water a step further. If they want to confuse the animal that's chasing it, they can run across the water, then sink below the surface and quickly swim the opposite direction.
What is a basilisk?
They are truly not appealing to look at and that is one of the reasons the basilisk was so feared. According to ancient mythology, in fact, the basilisk was considered the most deadly of creatures. It could simply look at another animal, the legend goes, and the animal would drop dead. It was also believed that the basilisk could breathe on an animal, and its foul breath was so lethal that it can have the same effect as a poisonous gas. However, none of this has been proven true. In reality, when the basilisk doesn't like a predator, it darts off running and gets out of harm's way.
The lizard is generally green in color, but can adjust its hue to many different colors. Some grow as long as three feet. One of their several distinguishing features are their eyes. They seem to protrude from the animal's head. The basilisk also has a large crest on its forehead with a mark that look like the crest on the back of a shark protruding from the ocean surface. When the animal feels threatened, or if you make it angry, the basilisk raises its head and its bottom jaw opens up. Yes, the breath the animal lets off is foul, and the display it puts on often frightens off any creature that crosses its path. However, the fact remains that the basilisk isn't incredibly harmful to more powerful creatures.
The basilisk has long legs and huge toes and, like dinosaurs, can run on two legs. Also similar to dinosaurs, when basilisks run away, they often shoot their tails horizontally in the air.
What kind of lizard can walk on water?
How does it do that?
Why does it walk on water?
How does the basilisk run on water?
There is a reptile, named the basilisk, with four legs that is known for its ability to walk or run on water. It has the unique ability to get a running start and just keeps on running. With such a light body and such large feet, it can literally run on water as far as a quarter mile! The basilisk's hind toes have scales that help it along and act as water skis. However, if it ever slows while on the surface, it can sink. Some basilisks can even take their running on water a step further. If they want to confuse the animal that's chasing it, they can run across the water, then sink below the surface and quickly swim the opposite direction.
What is a basilisk?
They are truly not appealing to look at and that is one of the reasons the basilisk was so feared. According to ancient mythology, in fact, the basilisk was considered the most deadly of creatures. It could simply look at another animal, the legend goes, and the animal would drop dead. It was also believed that the basilisk could breathe on an animal, and its foul breath was so lethal that it can have the same effect as a poisonous gas. However, none of this has been proven true. In reality, when the basilisk doesn't like a predator, it darts off running and gets out of harm's way.
The lizard is generally green in color, but can adjust its hue to many different colors. Some grow as long as three feet. One of their several distinguishing features are their eyes. They seem to protrude from the animal's head. The basilisk also has a large crest on its forehead with a mark that look like the crest on the back of a shark protruding from the ocean surface. When the animal feels threatened, or if you make it angry, the basilisk raises its head and its bottom jaw opens up. Yes, the breath the animal lets off is foul, and the display it puts on often frightens off any creature that crosses its path. However, the fact remains that the basilisk isn't incredibly harmful to more powerful creatures.
The basilisk has long legs and huge toes and, like dinosaurs, can run on two legs. Also similar to dinosaurs, when basilisks run away, they often shoot their tails horizontally in the air.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Komodo Dragon Lizard Information
Komodo Dragon Lizard Information
Komodo Dragon Lizards are mysterious, but here are the facts.
What is a Komodo dragon?
Komodo dragons, or Komodo monitors, are actually lizards. They just happen not to spend much time in the water and are much larger than other lizards. They grow as large as six-feet long and can be fairly substantial in weight. They aren't generally very fast creatures, but their hunting strategies are based on power and size. Compared with lions and other carnivores, Komodos can eat larger bites of meat with each bite and waste no time in swallowing or chewing. The lizards tend to prey on animals like monkeys, goats, wild boars, and rodents.
Komodos have four legs and prefer tropical climates. The reason there aren't many of them around is because young Komodos often end up as victims of prey to larger animals. However, if they can live past their fifth birthday, there's a good chance they'll be fine.
Mating generally happens in the summer and males regularly get into fights over the females. When they fight, the Komodos lean back on the hefty tails for support as they grab each other's forelegs and attempt to wrestle the other to the ground. The most powerful get to breed.
Why are Komodo dragons mysterious?
Komodo dragons were unknown to the Americas until 1910. That was the year Lieutenant van Steyn van Hensbroek, a Dutch colonist, heard about the "land crocodile." People in the western world then talked about the animal for years as if it were an ancient creature that may not really exist, or may even be God-like. Van Hensbroek took it upon himself to find the dragon, and he did just that. He eventually killed a Komodo that was about six-feet long. Van Hensbroek and a zoo director named Peter Ouwens compared their dragons and then determined that the Komodos were actually a form of monitor lizard. It wasn't until 1912 when Ouwens wrote a scientific paper about the Komodo.
The Dutch colonial government believed the Komodo to be magnificent and rare, so they immediately issued plans to protect the creature. Explorers then traveled to the island of Komodo, where this rare dragon was believed to originate. There were as few as 3,500 Komodos in existence, and were listed on the endangered species list.
Much more is known about Komodos today, and much of the mystery is gone. While scientists are still learning more about these creatures, they aren't nearly as mysterious as they once were. However, the Komodo dragon's reputation for being a special and magnificent creature for the most part still exists.
Komodo Dragon Lizards are mysterious, but here are the facts.
What is a Komodo dragon?
Komodo dragons, or Komodo monitors, are actually lizards. They just happen not to spend much time in the water and are much larger than other lizards. They grow as large as six-feet long and can be fairly substantial in weight. They aren't generally very fast creatures, but their hunting strategies are based on power and size. Compared with lions and other carnivores, Komodos can eat larger bites of meat with each bite and waste no time in swallowing or chewing. The lizards tend to prey on animals like monkeys, goats, wild boars, and rodents.
Komodos have four legs and prefer tropical climates. The reason there aren't many of them around is because young Komodos often end up as victims of prey to larger animals. However, if they can live past their fifth birthday, there's a good chance they'll be fine.
Mating generally happens in the summer and males regularly get into fights over the females. When they fight, the Komodos lean back on the hefty tails for support as they grab each other's forelegs and attempt to wrestle the other to the ground. The most powerful get to breed.
Why are Komodo dragons mysterious?
Komodo dragons were unknown to the Americas until 1910. That was the year Lieutenant van Steyn van Hensbroek, a Dutch colonist, heard about the "land crocodile." People in the western world then talked about the animal for years as if it were an ancient creature that may not really exist, or may even be God-like. Van Hensbroek took it upon himself to find the dragon, and he did just that. He eventually killed a Komodo that was about six-feet long. Van Hensbroek and a zoo director named Peter Ouwens compared their dragons and then determined that the Komodos were actually a form of monitor lizard. It wasn't until 1912 when Ouwens wrote a scientific paper about the Komodo.
The Dutch colonial government believed the Komodo to be magnificent and rare, so they immediately issued plans to protect the creature. Explorers then traveled to the island of Komodo, where this rare dragon was believed to originate. There were as few as 3,500 Komodos in existence, and were listed on the endangered species list.
Much more is known about Komodos today, and much of the mystery is gone. While scientists are still learning more about these creatures, they aren't nearly as mysterious as they once were. However, the Komodo dragon's reputation for being a special and magnificent creature for the most part still exists.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Set Up A Home For Your Pet Lizard
Set Up A Home For Your Pet Lizard
What kind of home will your pet lizard like?
How do you make your pet lizard's home as natural for it as possible?
The basic structure
Like all reptiles, a lizard needs a large enough space so it can have room to move around. You need to make sure there are different temperature levels in its home. A good rule of thumb is to reserve about one-third of the space for moving around, eating, and defecating. Your lizard will likely establish certain spots for each of these needs.
If your lizard is still a baby you want to be sure to plan ahead. Lizards grow quickly. When determining exactly how big your lizard's enclosure needs to be, you first need to measure your adult reptile from the tip of its nose to the end of its tail. The length of its enclosure should be at least two to three times this length; the width should be at least equal to one length of the reptile; and the height should be at least twice its' height.
What to include inside the enclosure?
The overall goal is to make the living arrangements as close to natural as possible. While the basic needs of all reptiles are quite similar, they do have some basic differences.
The main area should be a basking area. This allows the lizard a place it can lie in a warm temperature to help with digestion and sunning. Your lizard will spend most of its time in this spot.
The spot should be somewhere pleasing. This may be next to a window, so it can look outside. You should set up a human heating pad on the bottom of your lizard's enclosure. Also, outfit the basking area with an incandescent light bulb. You'll want the area to be mostly a solid color to be sure the heat stays in, ensuring that your lizard has a consistently heated place to stay.
Most types of lizards also need places they can climb and explore. You'll want to create such a spot for your pet. Again, each species has a different need. Consider building a contraption out of crates that can lead to a top level across the ceiling of the room. This provides them places they can go that simulate their natural habitats.
What conditions to maintain inside your lizard's home?
The most important issue is the temperature of your lizard's enclosure. It should have several different climates in which it can go, depending on its mood and needs. Monitor the temperatures regularly to make sure your lizard has areas that exceed 80 degrees and areas that are less than 70 degrees in which to roam.
What kind of home will your pet lizard like?
How do you make your pet lizard's home as natural for it as possible?
The basic structure
Like all reptiles, a lizard needs a large enough space so it can have room to move around. You need to make sure there are different temperature levels in its home. A good rule of thumb is to reserve about one-third of the space for moving around, eating, and defecating. Your lizard will likely establish certain spots for each of these needs.
If your lizard is still a baby you want to be sure to plan ahead. Lizards grow quickly. When determining exactly how big your lizard's enclosure needs to be, you first need to measure your adult reptile from the tip of its nose to the end of its tail. The length of its enclosure should be at least two to three times this length; the width should be at least equal to one length of the reptile; and the height should be at least twice its' height.
What to include inside the enclosure?
The overall goal is to make the living arrangements as close to natural as possible. While the basic needs of all reptiles are quite similar, they do have some basic differences.
The main area should be a basking area. This allows the lizard a place it can lie in a warm temperature to help with digestion and sunning. Your lizard will spend most of its time in this spot.
The spot should be somewhere pleasing. This may be next to a window, so it can look outside. You should set up a human heating pad on the bottom of your lizard's enclosure. Also, outfit the basking area with an incandescent light bulb. You'll want the area to be mostly a solid color to be sure the heat stays in, ensuring that your lizard has a consistently heated place to stay.
Most types of lizards also need places they can climb and explore. You'll want to create such a spot for your pet. Again, each species has a different need. Consider building a contraption out of crates that can lead to a top level across the ceiling of the room. This provides them places they can go that simulate their natural habitats.
What conditions to maintain inside your lizard's home?
The most important issue is the temperature of your lizard's enclosure. It should have several different climates in which it can go, depending on its mood and needs. Monitor the temperatures regularly to make sure your lizard has areas that exceed 80 degrees and areas that are less than 70 degrees in which to roam.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Lizards As Pets
Lizards As Pets
What kinds of lizard should you consider getting as pets?
What kinds of lizards should you avoid?
Which lizards make better pets than others, and why?
What type of home can you provide for a lizard?
If you have lots of room for a lizard, you may be interested in a large lizard such as an iguana, skink, or adult bearded dragon. If not, a smaller lizard like a leopard gecko may be best.
There are three main types of enclosures. You probably want to start out with a 20-gallon aquarium for each. A desert cage requires plenty of incandescent lighting, gravel and rocks. You'll want to also include a log and maintain a constant temperature of 90 to 95 degrees. For a temperate lizard cage, you'll want bark chips or newspaper on the aquarium floor, a log hiding spot, and lighting temperatures in the mid 80's. For a tropical enclosure you want a floor of moss and bark chips to hold water and keep the climate humid, plenty of plants and temperatures at about 85 degrees. Keep in mind that for tropical cages you may have to replace the plants. Lizards sometimes like to eat them.
Once you've decided which type of tank you can maintain, you can then begin the process of deciding which lizard is right for you. Lizards that thrive in desert tanks include leopard geckos, crevice lizards and swifts. Temperate climate lizards are leopard geckos, house geckos, iguanas, anoles, swifts, and tokays. Tropical lizards include day geckos, house geckos and green anoles.
How much care are you able to provide for a lizard?
Consider how much time you have and how many resources you can dedicate to the well being of your lizard. For instance, chameleons need to be checked on a couple times a day, while leopard geckos only need an hour's worth of attention each week. Some lizards need to be hand fed, while others only require you to drop a few insects into their tank once in awhile.
Lizards such as iguanas are herbivorous. They need a variety of foods ranging from bugs to worms and flies, while most eat only insects. They can be the easiest to feed.
Which lizards should the average pet owner avoid?
Lizards aren't generally difficult to maintain. You just need to be prepared and quite dedicated for certain types. For instance, iguanas and large lizards often need space that can take up an entire room in your house. Your lizard may need a pen they can wander in and climb around. Many average pet owners are ready for this type of situation, but you always need to be sure.
What kinds of lizard should you consider getting as pets?
What kinds of lizards should you avoid?
Which lizards make better pets than others, and why?
What type of home can you provide for a lizard?
If you have lots of room for a lizard, you may be interested in a large lizard such as an iguana, skink, or adult bearded dragon. If not, a smaller lizard like a leopard gecko may be best.
There are three main types of enclosures. You probably want to start out with a 20-gallon aquarium for each. A desert cage requires plenty of incandescent lighting, gravel and rocks. You'll want to also include a log and maintain a constant temperature of 90 to 95 degrees. For a temperate lizard cage, you'll want bark chips or newspaper on the aquarium floor, a log hiding spot, and lighting temperatures in the mid 80's. For a tropical enclosure you want a floor of moss and bark chips to hold water and keep the climate humid, plenty of plants and temperatures at about 85 degrees. Keep in mind that for tropical cages you may have to replace the plants. Lizards sometimes like to eat them.
Once you've decided which type of tank you can maintain, you can then begin the process of deciding which lizard is right for you. Lizards that thrive in desert tanks include leopard geckos, crevice lizards and swifts. Temperate climate lizards are leopard geckos, house geckos, iguanas, anoles, swifts, and tokays. Tropical lizards include day geckos, house geckos and green anoles.
How much care are you able to provide for a lizard?
Consider how much time you have and how many resources you can dedicate to the well being of your lizard. For instance, chameleons need to be checked on a couple times a day, while leopard geckos only need an hour's worth of attention each week. Some lizards need to be hand fed, while others only require you to drop a few insects into their tank once in awhile.
Lizards such as iguanas are herbivorous. They need a variety of foods ranging from bugs to worms and flies, while most eat only insects. They can be the easiest to feed.
Which lizards should the average pet owner avoid?
Lizards aren't generally difficult to maintain. You just need to be prepared and quite dedicated for certain types. For instance, iguanas and large lizards often need space that can take up an entire room in your house. Your lizard may need a pen they can wander in and climb around. Many average pet owners are ready for this type of situation, but you always need to be sure.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Ferret Care
Ferret Care
All about ferrets and their lives, what to feed them, how to care for them, and much more. Ferrets and birds, herps, rabbits, and pet rodents do not get along, but they do get along with dogs and cats. They may sleep 15 hours but while they are awake they are very playful, and active, like burrowing under rugs, bouncing on beds like a trampoline, and they love squeaky toys, baby toys, and of course toys made just for ferrets.
Ferrets have very short attention spans, but they can be trained, and they learn quickly as long as you start very young. These little guys are not the best pet for a child under 7, but children over seven would be great. Infants and ferrets are a no, no because ferrets are attracted to the high pitch cry of an infant.
Is your ferret illegal? There are states where they are illegal and here is a list:
Restrictions may apply in these states:
Ferrets are very playful and fearless. The world is their playground and everything they see is a playtoy or a playmate.
All about ferrets and their lives, what to feed them, how to care for them, and much more. Ferrets and birds, herps, rabbits, and pet rodents do not get along, but they do get along with dogs and cats. They may sleep 15 hours but while they are awake they are very playful, and active, like burrowing under rugs, bouncing on beds like a trampoline, and they love squeaky toys, baby toys, and of course toys made just for ferrets.
Ferrets have very short attention spans, but they can be trained, and they learn quickly as long as you start very young. These little guys are not the best pet for a child under 7, but children over seven would be great. Infants and ferrets are a no, no because ferrets are attracted to the high pitch cry of an infant.
Is your ferret illegal? There are states where they are illegal and here is a list:
- California
- Hawaii
- Minnesota: Bloomington, Burnsville
- Ohio: Columbus
- Oklahoma: Tulsa
- Ontario: Canada,London, York, and East York
- Puerto Rico
- Texas: Dallas, Fortworth, Beaumont
- Washington DC
Restrictions may apply in these states:
- Illinois- free permit required
- Minnesota- St. Paul requires a one time fee of $25.00
- New Jersey- permit required at $10.00 a year
- Rhode Island- permit required at $10.00 a year
- South Carolina- It is legal to own one, but illegal to sell one
Ferrets are very playful and fearless. The world is their playground and everything they see is a playtoy or a playmate.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Ferret Care: Proofing Your Home
Ferret Care: Proofing Your Home
How do you take care of a ferret? Ferret-Proofing your home.
Ferrets are related to otters, skunks and badgers. They are close relatives of the weasel, polecat and mink. Their scientific name is Mustela furo, or thief, in Latin. Ferrets are not rodents but carnivores, and in the wild they enjoy eating mice.
They have scent glands for marking and protection. While the ferret cannot spray, it can mark its territory or emit a smell when frightened. Pet stores sell descented ferrets. The scent gland is surgically removed when they are neutered or spayed. While ferrets have scent glands throughout the body, removal of the anal scent gland removes the strongest smells.
Today's domesticated ferret probably came from the Romans. The ferret was used for hunting and was helpful in hunting rabbits. Wild ferrets can kill game twice their size. Farmers and sailors used them to control rodents in barns and on ships. Rodents are afraid of the ferret's scent. Ferrets were used in early America to control rodents until poisons and traps were invented to replace them.
Ferrets have been used by Boeing to run wires through tight spaces in aircraft assemblies. They became popular as pets in the 1970's once someone learned how to de-scent them. Female ferrets weigh from 1.5 to 2.5 pounds. Males are larger, weighing from 3 to 5 pounds. Male ferrets are quieter while females are more active. They come in a variety of colors. There are also many color variations in paws, neck rings and tail tips. Ferrets mature in six months and live an average of 7 to 9 years. They are playful all of their lives. Older ferrets will even sit in your lap. Adult ferrets sleep around 15 hours a day. They will be awake when you wake up and sleep while you're gone to work. They will be ready to play when you get back home. Ferrets love to play with you, other ferrets or even other pets. They enjoy being chased and love to chase you. They like to play tug of war, run in tubes and pipes, jump on blankets, and chase balls. When a ferret gets excited it begins to dance and jump in circles. Don't be surprised if he jumps off of your sofa or runs into a wall. This usually doesn't hurt him.
All ferrets like to steal whatever they can drag away and they like to hide whatever they steal. They usually have a couple of stockpiles in your home. Once you find them, you can usually find whatever's missing. Ferrets are also intelligent. They are able to solve problems, for example, how to get in the cabinet to drag away rolls of toilet paper.
Ferrets need a high protein diet and lots of fresh water. They are not big on fish. You can feed them chicken cat food and also meat, such as turkey cold cuts. Many ferrets will not eat real meat. They should also be given small amounts of cereals, grains, fruits and vegetables. Goat's milk and cooked egg are enjoyable treats, too. A ferret will eat many small meals a day. There should be a supply of food handy for them at all times. Giving them dry food helps keep their teeth in good condition. Chocolate is toxic to ferrets. They are also lactose intolerant so don't feed them any Dairy products. Goat's milk is okay, though. It is low in lactose.
You can use cat litter for a ferret. They instinctively use one area of the cage as a toilet. Even young ferrets have this instinct. Ferrets like to keep their bathroom separate from eating, sleeping and play areas. Ferrets need a cage and other areas to relax in outside of the cage. The cage should be a wire cage with a wire bottom. Ferrets need to be let out of the cage every day for exercise and recreation. They return to their cages to eat and sleep and need free access to it at all times.
Just as birds fly and fish swim, ferrets dig. Potted plants are a big invitation for them. Move plants to another room or put them on a high plant stand. Ferret-proof the home, as you would baby-proof it for a toddler. Due to their curiosity and fearlessness they will get into anything. They can open cabinets, get under your stove and behind or in your appliances. Ferrets are social animals. Having two ferrets keeps them from being bored if they're left alone during the day. They can be taught to do simple tricks. They love toys.
Ferrets shed their fur twice a year, in the spring and in the fall. Nails must be clipped every three to five weeks. There is a vein in each nail. Make sure you cut below the vein, otherwise your ferret will bleed for a while. Not an emergency. The ferret will be fine quite soon. People who own ferrets love them. Personally, I have trouble with the scent, which is pervasive. However, if you want a playful, active and friendly pet, the ferret may be for you.
How do you take care of a ferret? Ferret-Proofing your home.
Ferrets are related to otters, skunks and badgers. They are close relatives of the weasel, polecat and mink. Their scientific name is Mustela furo, or thief, in Latin. Ferrets are not rodents but carnivores, and in the wild they enjoy eating mice.
They have scent glands for marking and protection. While the ferret cannot spray, it can mark its territory or emit a smell when frightened. Pet stores sell descented ferrets. The scent gland is surgically removed when they are neutered or spayed. While ferrets have scent glands throughout the body, removal of the anal scent gland removes the strongest smells.
Today's domesticated ferret probably came from the Romans. The ferret was used for hunting and was helpful in hunting rabbits. Wild ferrets can kill game twice their size. Farmers and sailors used them to control rodents in barns and on ships. Rodents are afraid of the ferret's scent. Ferrets were used in early America to control rodents until poisons and traps were invented to replace them.
Ferrets have been used by Boeing to run wires through tight spaces in aircraft assemblies. They became popular as pets in the 1970's once someone learned how to de-scent them. Female ferrets weigh from 1.5 to 2.5 pounds. Males are larger, weighing from 3 to 5 pounds. Male ferrets are quieter while females are more active. They come in a variety of colors. There are also many color variations in paws, neck rings and tail tips. Ferrets mature in six months and live an average of 7 to 9 years. They are playful all of their lives. Older ferrets will even sit in your lap. Adult ferrets sleep around 15 hours a day. They will be awake when you wake up and sleep while you're gone to work. They will be ready to play when you get back home. Ferrets love to play with you, other ferrets or even other pets. They enjoy being chased and love to chase you. They like to play tug of war, run in tubes and pipes, jump on blankets, and chase balls. When a ferret gets excited it begins to dance and jump in circles. Don't be surprised if he jumps off of your sofa or runs into a wall. This usually doesn't hurt him.
All ferrets like to steal whatever they can drag away and they like to hide whatever they steal. They usually have a couple of stockpiles in your home. Once you find them, you can usually find whatever's missing. Ferrets are also intelligent. They are able to solve problems, for example, how to get in the cabinet to drag away rolls of toilet paper.
Ferrets need a high protein diet and lots of fresh water. They are not big on fish. You can feed them chicken cat food and also meat, such as turkey cold cuts. Many ferrets will not eat real meat. They should also be given small amounts of cereals, grains, fruits and vegetables. Goat's milk and cooked egg are enjoyable treats, too. A ferret will eat many small meals a day. There should be a supply of food handy for them at all times. Giving them dry food helps keep their teeth in good condition. Chocolate is toxic to ferrets. They are also lactose intolerant so don't feed them any Dairy products. Goat's milk is okay, though. It is low in lactose.
You can use cat litter for a ferret. They instinctively use one area of the cage as a toilet. Even young ferrets have this instinct. Ferrets like to keep their bathroom separate from eating, sleeping and play areas. Ferrets need a cage and other areas to relax in outside of the cage. The cage should be a wire cage with a wire bottom. Ferrets need to be let out of the cage every day for exercise and recreation. They return to their cages to eat and sleep and need free access to it at all times.
Just as birds fly and fish swim, ferrets dig. Potted plants are a big invitation for them. Move plants to another room or put them on a high plant stand. Ferret-proof the home, as you would baby-proof it for a toddler. Due to their curiosity and fearlessness they will get into anything. They can open cabinets, get under your stove and behind or in your appliances. Ferrets are social animals. Having two ferrets keeps them from being bored if they're left alone during the day. They can be taught to do simple tricks. They love toys.
Ferrets shed their fur twice a year, in the spring and in the fall. Nails must be clipped every three to five weeks. There is a vein in each nail. Make sure you cut below the vein, otherwise your ferret will bleed for a while. Not an emergency. The ferret will be fine quite soon. People who own ferrets love them. Personally, I have trouble with the scent, which is pervasive. However, if you want a playful, active and friendly pet, the ferret may be for you.
Friday, February 6, 2009
Pet Ferrets
Pet Ferrets: How To Find One
When buying a pet ferret, learn how to know if you're getting a healthy one.
Ferrets are harder than dogs and cats to purchase. In order to buy one you should avoid pet stores and find a ferret breeder. A ferret born in captivity is much more likely to be tame and sociable.
Where do you find a good ferret breeder?
Check the classified section of your local newspaper, find any local ferret clubs, and definitely get in touch with the American Ferret Association. Any one of these sources can put you in touch with a good breeder in your area.
How do you know if the breeder you've chosen is a good one and is giving you a fair price?
What kind of cage should you get for your ferret?
Ferrets like to roam free around the house most of the time. But if you want to give them a cage to stay in, wire cages are the best. The trick is to find a cage that your ferret can't escape from. Also you want to put it in a room that can almost serve as the ferret's room. Put bedding down in the cage so it has a place to relieve itself when you can't find time to take it outside.
When buying a pet ferret, learn how to know if you're getting a healthy one.
Ferrets are harder than dogs and cats to purchase. In order to buy one you should avoid pet stores and find a ferret breeder. A ferret born in captivity is much more likely to be tame and sociable.
Where do you find a good ferret breeder?
Check the classified section of your local newspaper, find any local ferret clubs, and definitely get in touch with the American Ferret Association. Any one of these sources can put you in touch with a good breeder in your area.
How do you know if the breeder you've chosen is a good one and is giving you a fair price?
- Become well educated about ferrets and ask good questions.
- Attend local ferret meetings, talk to owners etc. about how to care for a ferret.
- Responsible breeders are members of national ferret groups, meaning they subscribe to an ethical code.
- Make sure the breeder intends to keep a member of the litter.
- A good breeder will make sure you have a fairly intimate knowledge of ferrets so that you know what you're getting into.
- A good breeder is more interested in finding his animal a good home than "getting rid of it".
- A good breeder will never claim there are no problems with a ferret their selling, there's no such thing.
- Ask how long the breeder has been in business, a good breeder will have a couple of years under their belt.
- Get referrals from previous customers.
- Make sure you will receive a pedigree slip and health records for the animal.
- A good breeder will not sell a ferret before it is at least eight weeks old and weaned from their mother.
- A money back guarantee; a good breeder would rather take an animal back if you cannot take care of it.
- Find out how frequently the breeder breeds. A responsible breeder will only breed one litter per female per year.
- Find out what normal prices for ferrets are in your area, and make sure not to make any decision unless you are totally comfortable with the circumstances.
What kind of cage should you get for your ferret?
Ferrets like to roam free around the house most of the time. But if you want to give them a cage to stay in, wire cages are the best. The trick is to find a cage that your ferret can't escape from. Also you want to put it in a room that can almost serve as the ferret's room. Put bedding down in the cage so it has a place to relieve itself when you can't find time to take it outside.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Parrotlets
Parrotlets
All about parrotlets: care, diet, and why these little pint sized parrots are good pets for a person with limited space.
These birds pack all the personality and pizzazz of their much bigger cousins, the amazons. They offer all the practical advantages of smaller birds. Parrotlets are the ideal bird because they are gorgeous, colorful, and spunky and have tons of personality. They do not scream like the large parrots.
There are only three species available in the United States and they are:
The parrotlet diet contains various seed, pellets, veggies, and fruit. Under no circumstances do you want to feed your little parrot any avocado, chocolate, alcohol, or caffeine.
You do not want to use sandpaper perches for the parrotlets due to their sensitive little feet, and you don't want to use sawdust in their cages. The little parrots should be bathed once a week. You can even let them shower with you, but you must be very careful while they are in there with you.
You will want to spend quality time with your little parrot, and provide numerous toys for him to play with. They will sing and they can say very small phrases, as their vocabulary is not as large as a regular parrot.
These are the best little birds if you want a parrot and are in limited space.
There are some characteristics to look for to see if your bird is ready to train:
All about parrotlets: care, diet, and why these little pint sized parrots are good pets for a person with limited space.
These birds pack all the personality and pizzazz of their much bigger cousins, the amazons. They offer all the practical advantages of smaller birds. Parrotlets are the ideal bird because they are gorgeous, colorful, and spunky and have tons of personality. They do not scream like the large parrots.
There are only three species available in the United States and they are:
- Pacific celestial Parrotlets- most common and feisty
- Green - rumped Parrotlets- shy, sweet, and gentle
- Spectacled parrotlets- Unknown in the US before 1992.
The parrotlet diet contains various seed, pellets, veggies, and fruit. Under no circumstances do you want to feed your little parrot any avocado, chocolate, alcohol, or caffeine.
You do not want to use sandpaper perches for the parrotlets due to their sensitive little feet, and you don't want to use sawdust in their cages. The little parrots should be bathed once a week. You can even let them shower with you, but you must be very careful while they are in there with you.
You will want to spend quality time with your little parrot, and provide numerous toys for him to play with. They will sing and they can say very small phrases, as their vocabulary is not as large as a regular parrot.
These are the best little birds if you want a parrot and are in limited space.
There are some characteristics to look for to see if your bird is ready to train:
- When your bird is relaxed in the cage while you are present in the room.
- When you reach your hand in the cage to feed, water, or clean and it does not cause excessive alarm.
- When your bird is willing to take treats from your hand.
- step up
- step on a stick
- lay on his back in your hand
- allow you to touch his feet
- allow you to touch his underside
- allow you to gently lay a towel over him
- step into a travel kennel
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
The Exotic Bird Cockatoo
The Exotic Bird Cockatoo
In southern australia, where sulphur-crested cockatoos live in large flocks, the bird has evolved a warning system to avoid being caught by predators.
The sulphur-crested cockatoo is a very noisy bird. He is one of Australia's loveliest sights.
The cockatoo is found in the open wooded country of Australia. They are a sociable bird except during breeding season. They form flocks for feeding. They feed on a variety of seeds, nuts, flowers, fruits and insects. The cockatoo will return each day to the same feeding site, until the food supply is all gone. Then they restart the hunt for another site that is abundant in food, enough for the whole flock. Farmers can be extremely aggravated with them, because they eat the new seeds and young crops. But they also help by eating weeds and insects.
Sulphur crested cockatoos perform a brief courtship ritual. Both the male and female prepare the nest, they seek large holes in old trees and they will build on cliff sides. They are both responsible for the raising of the young. The male and female also protect the eggs from predators. They incubate the eggs for thirty days. When the chicks hatch, both parents continue to protect and feed them until they a three months old. At this time, they will leave the nest to hunt on their own. The sulphur-crested cockatoo has a lifespan of twenty years in the wild. In captivity they can leave up to fifty years.
The sulphur-crested cockatoo has been captured through the years for pets. They can be tamed and make very good pets. They are able to mimic human's speech, and some can remember up to 1,000 phrases.
This cockatoo is a protected species throughout Australia. They can be breed in captivity. Their population in the wild is in no threat.
In southern australia, where sulphur-crested cockatoos live in large flocks, the bird has evolved a warning system to avoid being caught by predators.
The sulphur-crested cockatoo is a very noisy bird. He is one of Australia's loveliest sights.
The cockatoo is found in the open wooded country of Australia. They are a sociable bird except during breeding season. They form flocks for feeding. They feed on a variety of seeds, nuts, flowers, fruits and insects. The cockatoo will return each day to the same feeding site, until the food supply is all gone. Then they restart the hunt for another site that is abundant in food, enough for the whole flock. Farmers can be extremely aggravated with them, because they eat the new seeds and young crops. But they also help by eating weeds and insects.
Sulphur crested cockatoos perform a brief courtship ritual. Both the male and female prepare the nest, they seek large holes in old trees and they will build on cliff sides. They are both responsible for the raising of the young. The male and female also protect the eggs from predators. They incubate the eggs for thirty days. When the chicks hatch, both parents continue to protect and feed them until they a three months old. At this time, they will leave the nest to hunt on their own. The sulphur-crested cockatoo has a lifespan of twenty years in the wild. In captivity they can leave up to fifty years.
The sulphur-crested cockatoo has been captured through the years for pets. They can be tamed and make very good pets. They are able to mimic human's speech, and some can remember up to 1,000 phrases.
This cockatoo is a protected species throughout Australia. They can be breed in captivity. Their population in the wild is in no threat.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Adopt An Orphan Bird
Should You Adopt An Orphan Bird?
You see the animal lying on the ground, but should you take it in? What precautions should you take?
It's early summer and you've found a small baby bird fluttering in the grass by a tree in your yard. Though you're not a certified physician, your conscience and your 5-year-old child both insist that you should do something to help the fledgling.
What should you do?
You see the animal lying on the ground, but should you take it in? What precautions should you take?
It's early summer and you've found a small baby bird fluttering in the grass by a tree in your yard. Though you're not a certified physician, your conscience and your 5-year-old child both insist that you should do something to help the fledgling.
What should you do?
- The best thing you can do for the bird is to leave it alone. Most likely the bird is still learning to fly and its mother will help it along.
- However, if the baby bird is in danger of becoming lunch to somebody's pet, then you should try to return the fledgling to its nest. The mother bird will have no negative reaction to the human smell of the baby bird. However, use extremely gentle care when handling the baby.
- If you can't find the nest, make one. Poke holes in a small container (so the nest won't fill with water when it rains,) and fill it with small scraps of old clothing. You can nail the nest to a nearby tree, and if the parent birds hear the baby chirping they will probably go ahead and feed it.
- Make sure the bird feels warm. If it doesn't, you should take it indoors and care for it. Place the bird in a small container with athermometer and use a heating pad or a lamp to keep the temperature at 95 degrees. Once it is warm, you may return the bird to its nest.
- If the bird is weak and cold it would be a good idea to call your local wildlife rehabilitation center. If you attempt to feed it, make sure the bird is warm first. You can feed it meal worms or earthworms. Make sure the food is soft and soaked in water.
Monday, February 2, 2009
Bonding With Adopted Older Birds
Bonding With Adopted Older Birds
How should you bond with your adopted older bird? What precautions should you take?
If you are unfamiliar with birds, you may neglect to notice certain behavioral problems that can cause trouble. Shelters are overrun with birds that were adopted by people who didn't know how to care for problematic birds. Find out as much about the bird as possible. Birds are taken to shelters for a variety of reasons. Find out why it was put up for adoption or what its background is like, if you have access to that information. This all aids in understanding your pet.
What should you do to make the bird's transition easier?
The thing that you cannot avoid doing is the quarantine period. This should last about three months. By leaving the bird in its cage, you allow the bird to acclimate to its new surroundings. If possible, maintain the bird's previous cage, old toys and same treats, to provide the bird with some sense of familiarity.
How to begin the bonding process?
When you begin bonding with your bird, take it slowly. When you approach the cage, move slowly and keep your hands behind your back. It also helps if you kneel down. If you stand over the cage, the bird can feel threatened. Anything that threatens or scares the birds adds delay to the bonding process.
After the three-month quarantine period, you can begin taking the bird out of its cage for short intervals. Do this gradually. As you gain trust with the bird, you can allow it to stay out longer. All birds must know the "step up" and "step down" commands. This gives the bird a sense of position. And make sure your bird knows who is in charge. If you don't establish yourself as the boss, then the bird will be unresponsive to commands and fly about at its own will.
How long should it take?
Let the bird decide the rate at which the bonding will follow. If you force interaction with the bird, it may reject any approach. It is also a good idea to keep its wings clipped. Unclipped wings give the bird a feeling of superiority and training will be useless.
Know a bird's likes and dislikes from the beginning to avoid angering the bird. You can find out information on the bird's previous owner, if it is banded or micro-chipped.
The main thing is to realize that each adopted bird is uncomfortable at first. It will take awhile to adjust. Patience and understanding will help to build a strong relationship with your new friend.
How should you bond with your adopted older bird? What precautions should you take?
If you are unfamiliar with birds, you may neglect to notice certain behavioral problems that can cause trouble. Shelters are overrun with birds that were adopted by people who didn't know how to care for problematic birds. Find out as much about the bird as possible. Birds are taken to shelters for a variety of reasons. Find out why it was put up for adoption or what its background is like, if you have access to that information. This all aids in understanding your pet.
What should you do to make the bird's transition easier?
The thing that you cannot avoid doing is the quarantine period. This should last about three months. By leaving the bird in its cage, you allow the bird to acclimate to its new surroundings. If possible, maintain the bird's previous cage, old toys and same treats, to provide the bird with some sense of familiarity.
How to begin the bonding process?
When you begin bonding with your bird, take it slowly. When you approach the cage, move slowly and keep your hands behind your back. It also helps if you kneel down. If you stand over the cage, the bird can feel threatened. Anything that threatens or scares the birds adds delay to the bonding process.
After the three-month quarantine period, you can begin taking the bird out of its cage for short intervals. Do this gradually. As you gain trust with the bird, you can allow it to stay out longer. All birds must know the "step up" and "step down" commands. This gives the bird a sense of position. And make sure your bird knows who is in charge. If you don't establish yourself as the boss, then the bird will be unresponsive to commands and fly about at its own will.
How long should it take?
Let the bird decide the rate at which the bonding will follow. If you force interaction with the bird, it may reject any approach. It is also a good idea to keep its wings clipped. Unclipped wings give the bird a feeling of superiority and training will be useless.
Know a bird's likes and dislikes from the beginning to avoid angering the bird. You can find out information on the bird's previous owner, if it is banded or micro-chipped.
The main thing is to realize that each adopted bird is uncomfortable at first. It will take awhile to adjust. Patience and understanding will help to build a strong relationship with your new friend.
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Bird Raising For Baby Birds
Bird Raising For Baby Birds
Raising baby birds is easy with these tips.
Raising baby birds is easy with these tips.
- Ask your vet or another pet expert what temperature would be right for your animals, and heat them appropriately. You'll want to get a thermometer so you can monitor the temperature daily. Also, it may be a good idea for you to create a place your birds can perch.
- Keep babies away from other birds. Keep babies of the same species separate from those of other species and from other birds altogether. This will protect each group of birds from bacteria and diseases that other birds might carry. Be sure to wash your hands before you handle each given group of birds.
- Feed your baby birds. How you feed the birds should be based on what you feel most comfortable with. If you are an inexperienced bird handler, you may want to spoon feed your babies, rather than feeding them via syringe. Syringes can choke a newborn if they're not used correctly. When feeding by spoon, place the utensil inside the bottom rim of the animal's mouth and tilt the food in.
- Use shredded paper as bedding. Shavings can get caught in a bird's air passages or throat and can be hazardous.
- Clean the pen daily. You want to remove any excrement as soon as you can. It contains bacteria. Baby birds may be curious about it and you want to keep them from eating it. If ingested, it can disrupt a bird's digestive system.
- After babies reach about three-months old, they'll be about ready to make the switch from formula to adult bird food. Put some formula on top of adult food, perhaps with a vegetable to lure it.
- To properly socialize baby birds, you'll want to handle them often, regularly and carefully. Play with each bird for about 15 minutes several times a day. The more you handle your pets, the faster they'll get used to being around you. This is important for proper domestication.
- Teach them to fly. When your birds appear that they are interested in trying to fly, find a room with soft flooring to help them practice. You'll want to remove any pictures and mirrors from your walls, because they will be appealing for your birds to fly into.
- Trim their wings. Use young bird clips to keep your birds from escaping and will also ensure the tameness of your animals.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Bird Breeding
Bird Breeding
What do birds do when they breed? What time of year do they do it? What are the different ways male and female birds attract each other?
What factors do you need to consider when you breed birds?
You'll want to research your species of birds carefully before you begin the breeding process to determine the proper temperature you'll need to maintain. Some birds require as much as 100-or-more-degree heat in order for their reproductive organs to begin working properly.
When breeding birds, feed them more. Give them food with more nutritional value so they can properly support their breeding effort. It takes more nutrients for them to maintain healthy and large reproductive organs, eggs, and semen. Also, crush Vitamin E tablets to assist the process. Find the diet that's right for your particular type of bird. In nature, birds eat bugs and worms during the spring. Make sure they are eating plenty of vegetables and fruits as well. If you buy bird food from a box, check the label to make sure the birds are getting the proper nutrition.
How do birds mate?
Birds breed in the spring. Male birds generally become aggressive, while females begin to build nests. Provide the necessary nesting material for your female bird. They breed at young ages and often produce many chicks each year. The females choose their partners, so it is during the spring months that male birds are at their most colorful and most intelligent.
When birds have picked their partners, the process they undertake often leads you to wonder whether copulation even happened at all. The male bird climbs onto the back of the female and she moves her tail to the side. The female's genital opening is on the other side, and the male leans onto those openings. The male and female's genitals only are pressed together for a moment or two, then the male dismounts and the process is complete.
How do you know if your bird is bearing eggs?
One major way to tell whether your female bird is bearing eggs is to notice its flight habits. The weight of the egg is often too heavy a load for the bird to handle and it won't fly much, if at all. In order for embryos to properly develop, provide your bird with water to drink.
How can you keep your bird eggs safe?
Bird eggs are incredibly fragile. They have to be in order for the birds to peck their way out when the time comes. Female birds want their eggs to be warm and secure. You can help this process in your home with an incubating light. Find out which temperature is right for your breed. You'll want to allow the mother to be near her eggs, so she can care for them. Keep potential predators away. Mother birds are always cautious about her eggs.
What do birds do when they breed? What time of year do they do it? What are the different ways male and female birds attract each other?
What factors do you need to consider when you breed birds?
You'll want to research your species of birds carefully before you begin the breeding process to determine the proper temperature you'll need to maintain. Some birds require as much as 100-or-more-degree heat in order for their reproductive organs to begin working properly.
When breeding birds, feed them more. Give them food with more nutritional value so they can properly support their breeding effort. It takes more nutrients for them to maintain healthy and large reproductive organs, eggs, and semen. Also, crush Vitamin E tablets to assist the process. Find the diet that's right for your particular type of bird. In nature, birds eat bugs and worms during the spring. Make sure they are eating plenty of vegetables and fruits as well. If you buy bird food from a box, check the label to make sure the birds are getting the proper nutrition.
How do birds mate?
Birds breed in the spring. Male birds generally become aggressive, while females begin to build nests. Provide the necessary nesting material for your female bird. They breed at young ages and often produce many chicks each year. The females choose their partners, so it is during the spring months that male birds are at their most colorful and most intelligent.
When birds have picked their partners, the process they undertake often leads you to wonder whether copulation even happened at all. The male bird climbs onto the back of the female and she moves her tail to the side. The female's genital opening is on the other side, and the male leans onto those openings. The male and female's genitals only are pressed together for a moment or two, then the male dismounts and the process is complete.
How do you know if your bird is bearing eggs?
One major way to tell whether your female bird is bearing eggs is to notice its flight habits. The weight of the egg is often too heavy a load for the bird to handle and it won't fly much, if at all. In order for embryos to properly develop, provide your bird with water to drink.
How can you keep your bird eggs safe?
Bird eggs are incredibly fragile. They have to be in order for the birds to peck their way out when the time comes. Female birds want their eggs to be warm and secure. You can help this process in your home with an incubating light. Find out which temperature is right for your breed. You'll want to allow the mother to be near her eggs, so she can care for them. Keep potential predators away. Mother birds are always cautious about her eggs.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Proper Feeding For Your Bird
Proper Feeding For Your Bird
Proper feeeding for your bird, including a recipe for a base diet.
A seed-only diet for birds is the equuivalent of feeding a 2 yr old only crackers and water; nothing else. Nowadays we know that other sources ofnutrition come from a variety of whole-food sources. These sources come from veggies (including dark, green leafy types), some fruit, and a base diet.
A recommended base diet is one including legumes, whole grain brown rice, pastas, pearl barley, thawed frozen veggies (which are the highest in nutrition), and granulated sea kelp-a natural source of necessary iodine. The recipe for a good base diet is as follows:
Cook each of the following ingredients separately.
Combine first four ingredients, mix completely. Add frozen veggies, layered on top of mixture, sprinkle lightly with granulated sea kelp. Bag individual portions and freeze. Defrost to serve.
This will be the main diet, or base, you will serve every morning at feeding time. The base diet and seed are coupled with dark, leafy greens and some fruit. The above items should be rinsed thoroughly to remove pesticides. A source of whole grains, found in Cherrios, toast, or no-salt crackers.
Follow this sure bet for optimum health in your bird. it is a menu which will increase your pet's longevity.
Happy birding!
Proper feeeding for your bird, including a recipe for a base diet.
A seed-only diet for birds is the equuivalent of feeding a 2 yr old only crackers and water; nothing else. Nowadays we know that other sources ofnutrition come from a variety of whole-food sources. These sources come from veggies (including dark, green leafy types), some fruit, and a base diet.
A recommended base diet is one including legumes, whole grain brown rice, pastas, pearl barley, thawed frozen veggies (which are the highest in nutrition), and granulated sea kelp-a natural source of necessary iodine. The recipe for a good base diet is as follows:
Cook each of the following ingredients separately.
- 1 c pearl barley to 2 c water, cook until water is absorbed.
- 1 pkg 16 bean soup mix (minus seasoning) Cover with water, bring to full boil, boil 40 min., until just tender
- 1 c lg. elbow macaroni; cover with water, boil 7 min.
- 2 pkg ramen noodles (minus seasoning) Add to macaroni, boil both 3 min. more, drain and rinse.
- 9 c frozen mixed veggies, unthawed.
Combine first four ingredients, mix completely. Add frozen veggies, layered on top of mixture, sprinkle lightly with granulated sea kelp. Bag individual portions and freeze. Defrost to serve.
This will be the main diet, or base, you will serve every morning at feeding time. The base diet and seed are coupled with dark, leafy greens and some fruit. The above items should be rinsed thoroughly to remove pesticides. A source of whole grains, found in Cherrios, toast, or no-salt crackers.
Follow this sure bet for optimum health in your bird. it is a menu which will increase your pet's longevity.
Happy birding!
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Pet Bird Care
Pet Bird Care - Birdproof Your Home
Care for your new pet bird by preparing your home for its new inhabitant.
Before you bring a bird into your home there are some things you need to consider to make your home safe for your new friend. You will most likely need to make a few changes and take some precautions to bird-proof your home. Here is a list of things to change.
Chemical Hazards.
Most cleaning products or bug sprays will harm a bird, maybe even kill it. Aerosol sprays that you use to make your house smell pretty are very dangerous to a bird. Many times there is a safer alternative to sprays and harmful chemicals such as potpourri to keep a pleasant scent in your home.
You may want to consider chili powder around window sills and doorways to keep bugs out. Any uncertainty on a spray can should be confirmed or discussed with a vet. Ask your vet about other dangers to birds.
Ceilings, Doors and Windows.
You should always clip your bird's wings. Clipping wings will discourage a variety of undesirable behaviors. However, in the event you opt not to clip wings, you should consider that three things could and most likely will become hazards.
Ceiling fans in the room with your bird pose the threat of death since without clipped wings, the bird can gain flight into the swirling fan. Doors in that room should never lead outside. If the bird escapes it will not likely return and will not survive in the wild. That goes the same for windows, never leave them open.
Freedom.
Letting your bird roam freely will enhance your relationship with your bird. However, you must consider any hazards to a bird. A variety of everyday products will pose threats to your birds safety. These things include: electrical wires, cords, outlets, and certain foods. Certain foods we eat may cause death or illness to a bird.
If you take these steps in bird-proofing your home you will enjoy a fruitful life with your bird.
What human foods are harmful to birds?
While you may hear stories of your friends feeding your birds all kinds of fun human foods, all human foods are not always safe for birds. A good rule of thumb is to pretty much stick to feeding your birds fruits and bread products, if you must feed them something. Some foods that are toxic to birds include chocolate, aspirin, coffee, alcohol, and wild mushrooms.
Care for your new pet bird by preparing your home for its new inhabitant.
Before you bring a bird into your home there are some things you need to consider to make your home safe for your new friend. You will most likely need to make a few changes and take some precautions to bird-proof your home. Here is a list of things to change.
Chemical Hazards.
Most cleaning products or bug sprays will harm a bird, maybe even kill it. Aerosol sprays that you use to make your house smell pretty are very dangerous to a bird. Many times there is a safer alternative to sprays and harmful chemicals such as potpourri to keep a pleasant scent in your home.
You may want to consider chili powder around window sills and doorways to keep bugs out. Any uncertainty on a spray can should be confirmed or discussed with a vet. Ask your vet about other dangers to birds.
Ceilings, Doors and Windows.
You should always clip your bird's wings. Clipping wings will discourage a variety of undesirable behaviors. However, in the event you opt not to clip wings, you should consider that three things could and most likely will become hazards.
Ceiling fans in the room with your bird pose the threat of death since without clipped wings, the bird can gain flight into the swirling fan. Doors in that room should never lead outside. If the bird escapes it will not likely return and will not survive in the wild. That goes the same for windows, never leave them open.
Freedom.
Letting your bird roam freely will enhance your relationship with your bird. However, you must consider any hazards to a bird. A variety of everyday products will pose threats to your birds safety. These things include: electrical wires, cords, outlets, and certain foods. Certain foods we eat may cause death or illness to a bird.
If you take these steps in bird-proofing your home you will enjoy a fruitful life with your bird.
What human foods are harmful to birds?
While you may hear stories of your friends feeding your birds all kinds of fun human foods, all human foods are not always safe for birds. A good rule of thumb is to pretty much stick to feeding your birds fruits and bread products, if you must feed them something. Some foods that are toxic to birds include chocolate, aspirin, coffee, alcohol, and wild mushrooms.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Purchasing A First Bird
Purchasing A First Bird: Breeder Vs Pet Store
The differences between purchasing a bird through a bird breeder or a pet store.
Congratulations! After much consideration and research, you have decided a bird will suit both you and your lifestyle. I assure you, you will not be disappaointed! The "bird world" is exciting, colorful and emotionally fulfilling.
Now that you've decided which species of hookbill or waxbill you choose, the next question should be "Where do I GET a bird?" This article will deal with the two top favorites of acquiring your new family member. These choices are through 1) A bird breeder 2) Commercial pet shop.
A breeder is considered professional if 30 or more birds are sold per year. Any less and they are referred to as a hobbyist breeder. Fifteen years ago, the breeder simply bred birds, selling babies directly out of the nest, or relying on an experienced handfeeder for the weaning process. The handfeeder charged a separate fee for services rendered. Nowadays, it is more common for the breeder to include handfeeding before releasing possession to the new owner. There are both pros and cons to this method. A handfeeder can still be hired for their services, after checking out thir environment and workplace, and most certainly checking on supplied references. Only an experienced handfeeder should be considered! A private handfeeder will wean your baby until it is fully weaned, the duration of which depends on the species. No reputable breeder or handfeeder will releae a baby without it being FULLY weaned, regardless of the time involved.
Professional handfeeders generally do not take on more than they can handle. This means their services are usually on a more personal level, with more intense dedication. Much time is spent on socialization and human/bird bonding techniques. Ideally the baby is abundantly weaned and is raised with loving dedication, patience, and mutual respect.
If your bird is purchased from a professional breeder, they will be the one to handfeed and successfully wean. This is generally included in the buying price. This is good in terms of natural socialization i.e. interacting with other baby birds, a breeder may be more able to offer this important, but not absolutely necessary, service. Most professionals are already overworked and important undertakings. There simply may not be the time available to ensure abundant weaning, playtime and personal interaction, which are crucial for a companion pet bird. This is mostly due to a lack of time, but also one of interest at times. After-sale support should also be available and will be offered by reputable breeders and handfeeders. No matter how many years you may have in bird experience, there is always new information and knowledge being learned by all of us, all the while unselfishly passing on the information being learned.
We will now consider another alternative-the commercial pet shop. Keep in mind, a pet shop may not specialize in birds, including crucial after-sale support. If your bird turns ill, or is acting in a peculiar manner, or questions arise, you will need somewhere to turn, who is familiar with your bird and type, to fully anser these.
Pet shops are in business for one reason-PROFIT. When this is the motivator, I caution you-BUYER BEWARE! Below are listed 10 considerations you must ask to ensure both you and your bird's needs are met:
The best thing you can offer your new baby is taking the time and effort to continue learning all you can with issues like feeding, health, characteristics, etc., can be learned by one-on-one sessions with other bird owners, published literature, books and magazines, as well as joining your local avicultural organization. We learn nothing by ourselves-it must be passed along!
Having a companion pet bird owner will be one of the most enjoyable, satisfying relationships you will ever find yourself in. Happy birding!
The differences between purchasing a bird through a bird breeder or a pet store.
Congratulations! After much consideration and research, you have decided a bird will suit both you and your lifestyle. I assure you, you will not be disappaointed! The "bird world" is exciting, colorful and emotionally fulfilling.
Now that you've decided which species of hookbill or waxbill you choose, the next question should be "Where do I GET a bird?" This article will deal with the two top favorites of acquiring your new family member. These choices are through 1) A bird breeder 2) Commercial pet shop.
A breeder is considered professional if 30 or more birds are sold per year. Any less and they are referred to as a hobbyist breeder. Fifteen years ago, the breeder simply bred birds, selling babies directly out of the nest, or relying on an experienced handfeeder for the weaning process. The handfeeder charged a separate fee for services rendered. Nowadays, it is more common for the breeder to include handfeeding before releasing possession to the new owner. There are both pros and cons to this method. A handfeeder can still be hired for their services, after checking out thir environment and workplace, and most certainly checking on supplied references. Only an experienced handfeeder should be considered! A private handfeeder will wean your baby until it is fully weaned, the duration of which depends on the species. No reputable breeder or handfeeder will releae a baby without it being FULLY weaned, regardless of the time involved.
Professional handfeeders generally do not take on more than they can handle. This means their services are usually on a more personal level, with more intense dedication. Much time is spent on socialization and human/bird bonding techniques. Ideally the baby is abundantly weaned and is raised with loving dedication, patience, and mutual respect.
If your bird is purchased from a professional breeder, they will be the one to handfeed and successfully wean. This is generally included in the buying price. This is good in terms of natural socialization i.e. interacting with other baby birds, a breeder may be more able to offer this important, but not absolutely necessary, service. Most professionals are already overworked and important undertakings. There simply may not be the time available to ensure abundant weaning, playtime and personal interaction, which are crucial for a companion pet bird. This is mostly due to a lack of time, but also one of interest at times. After-sale support should also be available and will be offered by reputable breeders and handfeeders. No matter how many years you may have in bird experience, there is always new information and knowledge being learned by all of us, all the while unselfishly passing on the information being learned.
We will now consider another alternative-the commercial pet shop. Keep in mind, a pet shop may not specialize in birds, including crucial after-sale support. If your bird turns ill, or is acting in a peculiar manner, or questions arise, you will need somewhere to turn, who is familiar with your bird and type, to fully anser these.
Pet shops are in business for one reason-PROFIT. When this is the motivator, I caution you-BUYER BEWARE! Below are listed 10 considerations you must ask to ensure both you and your bird's needs are met:
- Check for proper licensing and operating permits necessary for your geopgraphical location.
- Are their babies handfed or parent-raised
- Take a good, close look, expecially keeping an eye out for cleanliness and disease-free animals
- Is a health guarantee offered
- Are well-health vet checks offered
- Do they offer after-sale support
- Upon request, can they provide references
- Determine if it is a long-term business or fly-by-night
- Are they experts in aviculture
- How involved will you be in the weaning process
The best thing you can offer your new baby is taking the time and effort to continue learning all you can with issues like feeding, health, characteristics, etc., can be learned by one-on-one sessions with other bird owners, published literature, books and magazines, as well as joining your local avicultural organization. We learn nothing by ourselves-it must be passed along!
Having a companion pet bird owner will be one of the most enjoyable, satisfying relationships you will ever find yourself in. Happy birding!
Monday, January 26, 2009
Talking Birds
Talking Birds
Tips and tricks of turning your talking bird into a conversationalist. One of the joys of owning a cockatiel or macaw is the satisfaction of teaching it how to talk.
The good news is that you just bought a parrot and are looking forward to hours of happy chatter. The bad news is that it's now 6 months later and your feather friend (1) has yet to utter a single peep, or (2) uses language that would make a sailor blush. It's a disappointment or embarrassment to many new owners, yet one that could be avoided with recognition of a simple fact: It's not the bird's fault.
NEW BIRD PRE-OWNED
"What you hear is what you get" should be the watchword of bird purchases, especially if your heart is really set on one of the talking varieties such as budgies, cockatiels, or macaws. Suffice it to say, though, do you and your family really have the time and the patience to train a young bird from scratch to recite companionable phrases just to entertain you? Likewise, are you prepared for the possibility that, in spite of all the coaxing and fond attention, your little friend just may not have the wits or inclination to speak up?
The flip side, obviously, is to consider adopting an older bird that has already demonstrated that it's capable of communication. "Previously owned" birds, however, come with their own set of challenges. While relocation, health, and financial considerations have forced many a pet owner's decision to sell, just as many animals birds included end up in the classifieds or pet shops because of problem behavior. If your bird of choice is certifiably a talker, you might want to inquire if profanity is part of its "colorful" vocabulary before you take it home and host a luncheon for your minister.
YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE SAYING
Just because Baretta's comical cockatiel, Fred, could answer a telephone didn't mean he could also answer questions and take a message. Although some species of birds are capable of mastering a large vocabulary, you mustn't confuse mimicry with actual conversation; they are simply repeating (or "parroting") what they've learned by rote without attaching any intellectual value to it. You can certainly, of course, invest the time in getting your pet to associate specific sounds or phrases with other actions (i.e., feeding, playing, etc.) but, again, any higher expectation would be akin to buying a Ferbie in the hope it will one day start spouting original opinions.
CONTINUITY IS THE KEY
It is important to always use the same words or phrases when trying to teach a bird to speak. To use the analogy of puppy-training, the words, "Don't jump" and "Stay down" may mean exactly the same thing to us, but the ears for whom the message is intended will hear two completely different things and, accordingly, take twice as long to discern what's being asked. It's also a wise idea not to incorporate whistling in the early stages of your bird's education. Oftentimes the bird will discover on its own that whistling is much easier to do than repeat silly words all day and will abandon the latter altogether. Whatever you attempt to teach your little friend, of course, should be something you won't mind listening to over and over and over and well, you get the picture.
TWO OF A KIND
If your bird is going to spend a lot of its waking hours home alone, there may be a temptation to buy it a cage-mate. While it may indeed appreciate one of its own kind with whom to pass the lonely hours, you could unwittingly sabotage your previous and current efforts to teach it to talk. "Why should I learn to speak a foreign language," the bird may rationalize, "when I can yak away in my native tongue to this new kid?" Better that your bird have already mastered the rudiments of repetition before you introduce a companion who might literally be a bird-brain and bad influence.
Some owners have resolved the loneliness issue by leaving a radio or television playing near the cage. You can, thus, imagine their startlement when Perry the Parrot lethally declares one evening, "We have to kill Stefano" or breaks into a stream of raunchy rapper lyrics. As a responsible pet parent, you need to closely monitor your child's listening habits, especially if he or she possesses the power to repeat everything back to you. (Dogs, cats, hamsters, and fish, of course, can continue to listen to whatever makes them happy.)
In the event your winged pal has picked up some unsavory dialogue, the best thing you can do is simply ignore it and continue to reinforce the more positive aspects of its vocal contributions to the household. Just like human children who pick up a swear word at school and then test it out at home, the intent is to get attention; if the behavior isn't acknowledged, it will eventually cease.
FINAL NOTE
Maybe your bird will never utter a single intelligible syllable in its entire life. That doesn't mean it should be punished, yelled at, or regarded as hopelessly stupid. In making the decision to bring a living creature into your life that will give you unconditional love, you owe it the same in return. Whether or not it rewards you with song, interminable chatter, or simply silence, it is nonetheless a pet deserving of all the affection and care you can give. If you can put the talent for talking in the category of "an added extra," you will never be disappointed in your choice.
Tips and tricks of turning your talking bird into a conversationalist. One of the joys of owning a cockatiel or macaw is the satisfaction of teaching it how to talk.
The good news is that you just bought a parrot and are looking forward to hours of happy chatter. The bad news is that it's now 6 months later and your feather friend (1) has yet to utter a single peep, or (2) uses language that would make a sailor blush. It's a disappointment or embarrassment to many new owners, yet one that could be avoided with recognition of a simple fact: It's not the bird's fault.
NEW BIRD PRE-OWNED
"What you hear is what you get" should be the watchword of bird purchases, especially if your heart is really set on one of the talking varieties such as budgies, cockatiels, or macaws. Suffice it to say, though, do you and your family really have the time and the patience to train a young bird from scratch to recite companionable phrases just to entertain you? Likewise, are you prepared for the possibility that, in spite of all the coaxing and fond attention, your little friend just may not have the wits or inclination to speak up?
The flip side, obviously, is to consider adopting an older bird that has already demonstrated that it's capable of communication. "Previously owned" birds, however, come with their own set of challenges. While relocation, health, and financial considerations have forced many a pet owner's decision to sell, just as many animals birds included end up in the classifieds or pet shops because of problem behavior. If your bird of choice is certifiably a talker, you might want to inquire if profanity is part of its "colorful" vocabulary before you take it home and host a luncheon for your minister.
YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE SAYING
Just because Baretta's comical cockatiel, Fred, could answer a telephone didn't mean he could also answer questions and take a message. Although some species of birds are capable of mastering a large vocabulary, you mustn't confuse mimicry with actual conversation; they are simply repeating (or "parroting") what they've learned by rote without attaching any intellectual value to it. You can certainly, of course, invest the time in getting your pet to associate specific sounds or phrases with other actions (i.e., feeding, playing, etc.) but, again, any higher expectation would be akin to buying a Ferbie in the hope it will one day start spouting original opinions.
CONTINUITY IS THE KEY
It is important to always use the same words or phrases when trying to teach a bird to speak. To use the analogy of puppy-training, the words, "Don't jump" and "Stay down" may mean exactly the same thing to us, but the ears for whom the message is intended will hear two completely different things and, accordingly, take twice as long to discern what's being asked. It's also a wise idea not to incorporate whistling in the early stages of your bird's education. Oftentimes the bird will discover on its own that whistling is much easier to do than repeat silly words all day and will abandon the latter altogether. Whatever you attempt to teach your little friend, of course, should be something you won't mind listening to over and over and over and well, you get the picture.
TWO OF A KIND
If your bird is going to spend a lot of its waking hours home alone, there may be a temptation to buy it a cage-mate. While it may indeed appreciate one of its own kind with whom to pass the lonely hours, you could unwittingly sabotage your previous and current efforts to teach it to talk. "Why should I learn to speak a foreign language," the bird may rationalize, "when I can yak away in my native tongue to this new kid?" Better that your bird have already mastered the rudiments of repetition before you introduce a companion who might literally be a bird-brain and bad influence.
Some owners have resolved the loneliness issue by leaving a radio or television playing near the cage. You can, thus, imagine their startlement when Perry the Parrot lethally declares one evening, "We have to kill Stefano" or breaks into a stream of raunchy rapper lyrics. As a responsible pet parent, you need to closely monitor your child's listening habits, especially if he or she possesses the power to repeat everything back to you. (Dogs, cats, hamsters, and fish, of course, can continue to listen to whatever makes them happy.)
In the event your winged pal has picked up some unsavory dialogue, the best thing you can do is simply ignore it and continue to reinforce the more positive aspects of its vocal contributions to the household. Just like human children who pick up a swear word at school and then test it out at home, the intent is to get attention; if the behavior isn't acknowledged, it will eventually cease.
FINAL NOTE
Maybe your bird will never utter a single intelligible syllable in its entire life. That doesn't mean it should be punished, yelled at, or regarded as hopelessly stupid. In making the decision to bring a living creature into your life that will give you unconditional love, you owe it the same in return. Whether or not it rewards you with song, interminable chatter, or simply silence, it is nonetheless a pet deserving of all the affection and care you can give. If you can put the talent for talking in the category of "an added extra," you will never be disappointed in your choice.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
All About Javelina Rodents
All About Javelina Rodents
Learn all about javelinas rodents or peccaries: wild pigs of the desert, that travel in herds and are quite interesting...once you get past their smell.
The Javelina (Dicotyles tajacu) is also known as a collared peccary, tayaussa, or musk hog. It is the only wild relative of the pig family in the United States. Javelinas are members of the Tayassuidae Family. True pigs are members of the Suidae Family.
This wild pig can be found in the brushy deserts, rocky canyons, and wastelands of the Chihuahuan and Sonoran Deserts with their territory extending from southern and central Arizona to New Mexico and south and central Texas, then spreading south into Mexico. They live in areas near water, brush and cactus, especially around the prickly pear plant. Their dens are made of hollows in the ground.
Javelinas tend to stay near permanent sources of water. Unlike coyotes and bobcats who share the same habitat, javelinas are unable to evaporate moisture through panting to prevent overheating. Therefore, during the midday heat, javelinas must rest in the shade and forage for food when it's cooler.
The adult male javelina ranges from 46 to 60 inches in length and is usually 20 to 24 inches in height. The adult male weighs between 40 and 60 pounds. It is colored a grizzled black and gray with a dark dorsal stripe, but it is lighter around the shoulders. The fur is very coarse. The javelina has an inconspicuous tail and a pig-like snout. The javelina has 2 hooves on each foot. There are four toes on the forefeet and three on the hind feet. The javelina's upper tusks are 1.5 inches long and are pointed down rather than curled as with some other feral wild pigs. In adults there is a mane that extends down the crown of the head to the rump, which is most obvious when the javelina is excited.
Breeding occurs during any time of the year. Females usually give birth to two young after a gestation period of 145 days. The young are reddish to yellow-brown in color.
Javelinas usually travel in a band from 6 to 12 although as many as 50 have been seen together. The large groups offers them protection from predators. They are most active during early morning and evening when it is cooler.
Javelinas also have a powerful musk gland on the top of the rump. Their odor is always apparent, especially when they are excited. You may smell a javelina before you see it.
They also make a lot of noise. They grunt and squeal and be quite skittish to humans. They have been known to charge when they or their young are in danger, but under most circumstances, they will run from humans.
Learn all about javelinas rodents or peccaries: wild pigs of the desert, that travel in herds and are quite interesting...once you get past their smell.
The Javelina (Dicotyles tajacu) is also known as a collared peccary, tayaussa, or musk hog. It is the only wild relative of the pig family in the United States. Javelinas are members of the Tayassuidae Family. True pigs are members of the Suidae Family.
This wild pig can be found in the brushy deserts, rocky canyons, and wastelands of the Chihuahuan and Sonoran Deserts with their territory extending from southern and central Arizona to New Mexico and south and central Texas, then spreading south into Mexico. They live in areas near water, brush and cactus, especially around the prickly pear plant. Their dens are made of hollows in the ground.
Javelinas tend to stay near permanent sources of water. Unlike coyotes and bobcats who share the same habitat, javelinas are unable to evaporate moisture through panting to prevent overheating. Therefore, during the midday heat, javelinas must rest in the shade and forage for food when it's cooler.
The adult male javelina ranges from 46 to 60 inches in length and is usually 20 to 24 inches in height. The adult male weighs between 40 and 60 pounds. It is colored a grizzled black and gray with a dark dorsal stripe, but it is lighter around the shoulders. The fur is very coarse. The javelina has an inconspicuous tail and a pig-like snout. The javelina has 2 hooves on each foot. There are four toes on the forefeet and three on the hind feet. The javelina's upper tusks are 1.5 inches long and are pointed down rather than curled as with some other feral wild pigs. In adults there is a mane that extends down the crown of the head to the rump, which is most obvious when the javelina is excited.
Breeding occurs during any time of the year. Females usually give birth to two young after a gestation period of 145 days. The young are reddish to yellow-brown in color.
Javelinas usually travel in a band from 6 to 12 although as many as 50 have been seen together. The large groups offers them protection from predators. They are most active during early morning and evening when it is cooler.
Javelinas also have a powerful musk gland on the top of the rump. Their odor is always apparent, especially when they are excited. You may smell a javelina before you see it.
They also make a lot of noise. They grunt and squeal and be quite skittish to humans. They have been known to charge when they or their young are in danger, but under most circumstances, they will run from humans.
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Examine During Grooming for Guinea Pig
Guinea Pig Health: Examine During Grooming
Is guinea pig health important to you? Guinea pigs tend to hide signs of illness, so the best time to check for potential trouble is grooming time. Here's what to look for.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, with their naturally passive natures and entertaining antics, but they often mask signs of serious illness. In the wild, hiding signs of weakness is a defensive behavior used by those animals who have no other defenses. Appearing sick in the wild is an invitation for early death, so guinea pigs have mastered the art of hiding their illnesses. Responsible owners need to be aware of this, so they can notice subtle signs of potential trouble in their pet guinea pigs. The best time to perform this inspection is during routine grooming. Long-haired guinea pigs require daily grooming for ideal maintenance, but even the short haired varieties need some grooming. Once you have your piggie secured in your lap and have the brush ready, here's what you need to inspect.
1. General appearances:
Does your pig seem genuinely happy to see you, or does he appear lethargic or distracted? Guinea pigs generally greet owners with enthusiasm and squeals. A lethargic pig is either bored or sick. If you feel comfortable eliminating boredom as a possible cause for his lethargy, then you should consider the possibility of illness. Also, consider your pet's weight. Anorexia and other eating disorders are not uncommon in guinea pigs, so assess your pet's general weight every time you prepare to groom him. Consult a veterinarian if you notice a great variance in your pet's weight.
2. Eyes:
While brushing your guinea pig, take a good look at his eyes. They should be shiny and moist, with little or no accumulation of fluid around the lower lid. Any fluid you find should be clear, not cloudy. Excessive discharge of any kind may indicate a serious cold or pneumonia, or an allergic reaction to bedding or household dust.
3. Nostrils:
Also inspect your pet's nasal area for any discharge or dried mucus. Guinea pigs are especially susceptible to colds and pneumonia, so nasal discharges are a good sign of potential illness.
4. Teeth:
Checking a guinea pig's teeth is not easy, but it can be done. You may have to get more forceful with your pet than usual, but separate your guinea pig's lips and take a look at the front teeth. Are they intact? Broken teeth can affect eating, which may lead to anorexia. A guinea pig's teeth never stop growing, so a chew block is essential. Listen for any clicking or grinding sounds, which may indicate overgrowth of the back teeth.
5. Ears:
Check a guinea pig's ears for any excessive wax buildup, which can be gently removed with cotton swabs. Otherwise, a guinea pig's ears are usually trouble-free. If you have more than one pig, check for any injury that may occur through infighting. Males are notoriously territorial, so some scuffles may leave injuries.
6. Abdomen:
Check for signs of urine scalding, which occurs when a sick pig spends too much time lying in urine-soaked bedding. It is the guinea equivalent of diaper rash, and should be treated at the vet's office. Another serious condition that should be apparent at grooming time is known as a 'mega-colon'. Occasionally, older guinea pigs lose tone in their sphincter muscles, causing them to become constipated easily. Untreated, this condition can be life-threatening. If you notice a swelling around the anal opening or excessive feces that are large and unformed, your pig may have developed this condition. Consult a vet as soon as possible.
7. Nails:
Guinea pigs' nails grow extremely fast, and can get unmanageable sooner than you think. If you are comfortable with the procedure, go ahead and clip your pig's toenails regularly. If you are not comfortable with the idea, find a reputable vet who will perform the service. Grooming time is the best time to inspect your pet's toes to determine what action to take.
Is guinea pig health important to you? Guinea pigs tend to hide signs of illness, so the best time to check for potential trouble is grooming time. Here's what to look for.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, with their naturally passive natures and entertaining antics, but they often mask signs of serious illness. In the wild, hiding signs of weakness is a defensive behavior used by those animals who have no other defenses. Appearing sick in the wild is an invitation for early death, so guinea pigs have mastered the art of hiding their illnesses. Responsible owners need to be aware of this, so they can notice subtle signs of potential trouble in their pet guinea pigs. The best time to perform this inspection is during routine grooming. Long-haired guinea pigs require daily grooming for ideal maintenance, but even the short haired varieties need some grooming. Once you have your piggie secured in your lap and have the brush ready, here's what you need to inspect.
1. General appearances:
Does your pig seem genuinely happy to see you, or does he appear lethargic or distracted? Guinea pigs generally greet owners with enthusiasm and squeals. A lethargic pig is either bored or sick. If you feel comfortable eliminating boredom as a possible cause for his lethargy, then you should consider the possibility of illness. Also, consider your pet's weight. Anorexia and other eating disorders are not uncommon in guinea pigs, so assess your pet's general weight every time you prepare to groom him. Consult a veterinarian if you notice a great variance in your pet's weight.
2. Eyes:
While brushing your guinea pig, take a good look at his eyes. They should be shiny and moist, with little or no accumulation of fluid around the lower lid. Any fluid you find should be clear, not cloudy. Excessive discharge of any kind may indicate a serious cold or pneumonia, or an allergic reaction to bedding or household dust.
3. Nostrils:
Also inspect your pet's nasal area for any discharge or dried mucus. Guinea pigs are especially susceptible to colds and pneumonia, so nasal discharges are a good sign of potential illness.
4. Teeth:
Checking a guinea pig's teeth is not easy, but it can be done. You may have to get more forceful with your pet than usual, but separate your guinea pig's lips and take a look at the front teeth. Are they intact? Broken teeth can affect eating, which may lead to anorexia. A guinea pig's teeth never stop growing, so a chew block is essential. Listen for any clicking or grinding sounds, which may indicate overgrowth of the back teeth.
5. Ears:
Check a guinea pig's ears for any excessive wax buildup, which can be gently removed with cotton swabs. Otherwise, a guinea pig's ears are usually trouble-free. If you have more than one pig, check for any injury that may occur through infighting. Males are notoriously territorial, so some scuffles may leave injuries.
6. Abdomen:
Check for signs of urine scalding, which occurs when a sick pig spends too much time lying in urine-soaked bedding. It is the guinea equivalent of diaper rash, and should be treated at the vet's office. Another serious condition that should be apparent at grooming time is known as a 'mega-colon'. Occasionally, older guinea pigs lose tone in their sphincter muscles, causing them to become constipated easily. Untreated, this condition can be life-threatening. If you notice a swelling around the anal opening or excessive feces that are large and unformed, your pig may have developed this condition. Consult a vet as soon as possible.
7. Nails:
Guinea pigs' nails grow extremely fast, and can get unmanageable sooner than you think. If you are comfortable with the procedure, go ahead and clip your pig's toenails regularly. If you are not comfortable with the idea, find a reputable vet who will perform the service. Grooming time is the best time to inspect your pet's toes to determine what action to take.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Guinea Pig Sounds
Guinea Pig Sounds
Guinea pigs make many different sounds, from the contented grunts that gave them their name to high pitched squeaks that can indicate illness or fear.
Guinea pigs make wonderful house pets because of their docile nature and relative ability to handle rough treatment by children. They are much less fragile than hamsters or gerbils, and more independent than most cats and dogs. Guinea pigs are vegetarians by nature, and generally only bite when severely provoked or seriously ill. Owning a guinea pig is very close to owning a rabbit or a ferret in terms of overall maintenance level. Cages must be kept clean, and food/water levels must be checked daily. Guinea pigs are social animals, and respond well to daily exercise and human contact. One endearing quality of guinea pigs would have to be the noises they make throughout the day. Owners should get to know these grunts, squeaks and chirps by heart, because they may be the first clues to a serious problem with the guinea pig's health or a good gauge for checking their overall mood.
One of the most common noises emitted by a guinea pig is the grunt. This noise is not exactly the same as a real pig's guttural grunting, but it is just as constant. Guinea pigs spend most of their time making a series of little squeaks that increase in volume and pitch whenever a human makes contact with them. At first, these sounds may appear troubling to the new owner, because they seem so insistent and intense. This is not the case, however. Guinea pigs maintain these squeaks during times of contentment and excitement. Don't worry if they seem to become more strained as you handle the pig. As long as the grunts are continuous and are stimulated by gentle handling, everything is fine. Think of it as a guinea pig's giggle. This is the standard noise of any guinea pig breed.
Guinea pigs also have their own brand of human owner conditioning which their 'slaves' usually refer to as the 'WEEEEK' noise. Guinea pigs are intelligent creatures, and will soon learn the significance of many household sounds. If you feed your guinea pig fresh parsley or carrots from the refrigerator, they will soon associate this sound with a treat. The sound of a bag rustling may remind them of a fresh bowl of pellet food being prepared, or some timothy hay about to be dropped. Whatever the trigger may be, the owner should expect to hear a very loud, shrill 'WEEEEEK' noise coming from the cage. Studies have shown that this noise is not found in nature, but is reserved for the human whose main responsibility in life should be the care and maintenance of their guinea pig master. All guinea pigs develop this high-pitched squeak eventually, which is generally reserved for the proper occasion. If your pig suddenly lets out such a squeak, you probably triggered it with a familiar sound. Contrary to guinea pig belief, however, you CAN choose to ignore it. Good luck.
Perhaps the ultimate in happy guinea pig noises is the purr of contentment. To hear it for the first time is pure owner bliss. While gently stroking your pet, listen and feel for a very quiet shuddering, followed by a low-pitched purr. This is the sound of a perfectly content pig who is totally at ease with his or her surroundings. Not a very common noise, but one you will want to hear at least once a day.
Guinea pigs are defenseless in nature, except for the ability to run fast and dodge. They rarely let out any noises to indicate illness or fear in the wild, because enemies will target the weakest animals in a pack. But within the relatively safe confines of the human world, guineas will make some noises that indicate real pain or fear. If you notice a sudden outburst of squeaking that is not triggered by common sounds, then you may have an injured pig to deal with. Check your pet's feet for cuts or splinters, and look for signs of broken teeth. Also, ask any child that may have handled the pig recently if they had any problems- a sudden fall or an awkward position can cause painful dislocations. Guinea pigs may also let out distressed squeaks in the presence of strangers or aggressive pets like cats or large dogs. Such squeaks may be followed by defensive bites, so use caution when attempting to examine a squeaking guinea pig. Punishing a guinea pig for biting is never a good idea- they bite so rarely that there was probably a good reason behind it.
Overall, a guinea pig's noises should suggest a happy, contented animal who is more than willing to allow you the privilege of feeding it daily. Some may find the noises distracting and opt for a quieter pet, but guinea enthusiasts generally enjoy the little squeaks and WEEEEEKS of their friends with fur on their faces.
Guinea pigs make many different sounds, from the contented grunts that gave them their name to high pitched squeaks that can indicate illness or fear.
Guinea pigs make wonderful house pets because of their docile nature and relative ability to handle rough treatment by children. They are much less fragile than hamsters or gerbils, and more independent than most cats and dogs. Guinea pigs are vegetarians by nature, and generally only bite when severely provoked or seriously ill. Owning a guinea pig is very close to owning a rabbit or a ferret in terms of overall maintenance level. Cages must be kept clean, and food/water levels must be checked daily. Guinea pigs are social animals, and respond well to daily exercise and human contact. One endearing quality of guinea pigs would have to be the noises they make throughout the day. Owners should get to know these grunts, squeaks and chirps by heart, because they may be the first clues to a serious problem with the guinea pig's health or a good gauge for checking their overall mood.
One of the most common noises emitted by a guinea pig is the grunt. This noise is not exactly the same as a real pig's guttural grunting, but it is just as constant. Guinea pigs spend most of their time making a series of little squeaks that increase in volume and pitch whenever a human makes contact with them. At first, these sounds may appear troubling to the new owner, because they seem so insistent and intense. This is not the case, however. Guinea pigs maintain these squeaks during times of contentment and excitement. Don't worry if they seem to become more strained as you handle the pig. As long as the grunts are continuous and are stimulated by gentle handling, everything is fine. Think of it as a guinea pig's giggle. This is the standard noise of any guinea pig breed.
Guinea pigs also have their own brand of human owner conditioning which their 'slaves' usually refer to as the 'WEEEEK' noise. Guinea pigs are intelligent creatures, and will soon learn the significance of many household sounds. If you feed your guinea pig fresh parsley or carrots from the refrigerator, they will soon associate this sound with a treat. The sound of a bag rustling may remind them of a fresh bowl of pellet food being prepared, or some timothy hay about to be dropped. Whatever the trigger may be, the owner should expect to hear a very loud, shrill 'WEEEEEK' noise coming from the cage. Studies have shown that this noise is not found in nature, but is reserved for the human whose main responsibility in life should be the care and maintenance of their guinea pig master. All guinea pigs develop this high-pitched squeak eventually, which is generally reserved for the proper occasion. If your pig suddenly lets out such a squeak, you probably triggered it with a familiar sound. Contrary to guinea pig belief, however, you CAN choose to ignore it. Good luck.
Perhaps the ultimate in happy guinea pig noises is the purr of contentment. To hear it for the first time is pure owner bliss. While gently stroking your pet, listen and feel for a very quiet shuddering, followed by a low-pitched purr. This is the sound of a perfectly content pig who is totally at ease with his or her surroundings. Not a very common noise, but one you will want to hear at least once a day.
Guinea pigs are defenseless in nature, except for the ability to run fast and dodge. They rarely let out any noises to indicate illness or fear in the wild, because enemies will target the weakest animals in a pack. But within the relatively safe confines of the human world, guineas will make some noises that indicate real pain or fear. If you notice a sudden outburst of squeaking that is not triggered by common sounds, then you may have an injured pig to deal with. Check your pet's feet for cuts or splinters, and look for signs of broken teeth. Also, ask any child that may have handled the pig recently if they had any problems- a sudden fall or an awkward position can cause painful dislocations. Guinea pigs may also let out distressed squeaks in the presence of strangers or aggressive pets like cats or large dogs. Such squeaks may be followed by defensive bites, so use caution when attempting to examine a squeaking guinea pig. Punishing a guinea pig for biting is never a good idea- they bite so rarely that there was probably a good reason behind it.
Overall, a guinea pig's noises should suggest a happy, contented animal who is more than willing to allow you the privilege of feeding it daily. Some may find the noises distracting and opt for a quieter pet, but guinea enthusiasts generally enjoy the little squeaks and WEEEEEKS of their friends with fur on their faces.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Guinea Pig Names
Guinea Pig Names
Guinea pigs are very sociable animals who will bond with their owners quickly. Selecting the proper name for your guinea pig is an important step. Here are some suggestions on how to choose a good name.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets for children, because they have the hardiness of a rabbit or cat combined with the appealing curiosity of a hamster or mouse. They are odorless, non-aggressive and very sociable- all good qualities when subjected to the scrutiny of young hands. Adults who cannot have a dog or a cat in their homes often find that a guinea pig offers many of the same qualities, with the added advantage of being a caged animal that can be left alone for extended periods of time if necessary. They are indeed very loving animals, and love to entertain their owners with their antics.
But what do you name that little bundle of fur that comes home from the pet store or breeder? Naming a pet is a very good step for a child, and parents should encourage a brainstorming session or two to find the perfect name(s). Guinea pigs do learn the sound of their names when they get accustomed to their new environment, so be sure to
pick a good one.
1. Names based on appearance.
Take a good look at your pet. Do you notice anything unusual about his appearance, or one standout feature that everyone talks about? You could call him or her Cinnamon, Blackie, Snow, Spot, Checkers, Kabuki, Bandit, Freckles, Patches, etc... Anything that stands out about their fur or general appearance can make a good and memorable name.
2. Names based on activities.
Watch your pet as he or she moves around and interacts with you. You could come up with names like Scooter, Jumping Jack Flash, Skittles, Slider, Scramble, Beggar, Dancer, Tumbles, Hoppy, Popcorn, etc... Young guinea pigs are especially prone to surprising hops and skips, commonly called 'popcorning'. They will grow out of it eventually, but not before getting a name from the experience.
3. Famous Pig names.
Since you have a genuine 'pig' on your hands, you might go with a famous pig name. Porky, Arnold Ziffle, Petunia, Hogglesworth, Wilbur, Piggly Wiggly, etc. Kids love to equate animal names with other animals they learn about in school or on television.
4. Historical names.
If you have a pair of guinea pigs, you may want to choose names of famous lovers throughout history: Romeo and Juliet, Bonnie and Clyde, Mickey and Minny, Porky and Petunia, Adam and Eve, Samson and Delilah, Sabrina and Harvey, etc... Children may have their own favorite couples from their generation, so this may be a chance for them to make a decision on their own.
5. Traditional cat names.
Guinea pigs have a few traits in common with cats, so if you are absolutely stuck consider some traditional cat names like Snowball, Belle, Miss Piggy (instead of Kitty), Precious, Trixie, Soot, Boss, etc... If you lost a family pet, you might consider lending its name or legacy to the new pet as a good transition- use a variant like Smokey, Jr. or Scrabble II to honor the memory of a lost pet.
Guinea pigs are very sociable animals who will bond with their owners quickly. Selecting the proper name for your guinea pig is an important step. Here are some suggestions on how to choose a good name.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets for children, because they have the hardiness of a rabbit or cat combined with the appealing curiosity of a hamster or mouse. They are odorless, non-aggressive and very sociable- all good qualities when subjected to the scrutiny of young hands. Adults who cannot have a dog or a cat in their homes often find that a guinea pig offers many of the same qualities, with the added advantage of being a caged animal that can be left alone for extended periods of time if necessary. They are indeed very loving animals, and love to entertain their owners with their antics.
But what do you name that little bundle of fur that comes home from the pet store or breeder? Naming a pet is a very good step for a child, and parents should encourage a brainstorming session or two to find the perfect name(s). Guinea pigs do learn the sound of their names when they get accustomed to their new environment, so be sure to
pick a good one.
1. Names based on appearance.
Take a good look at your pet. Do you notice anything unusual about his appearance, or one standout feature that everyone talks about? You could call him or her Cinnamon, Blackie, Snow, Spot, Checkers, Kabuki, Bandit, Freckles, Patches, etc... Anything that stands out about their fur or general appearance can make a good and memorable name.
2. Names based on activities.
Watch your pet as he or she moves around and interacts with you. You could come up with names like Scooter, Jumping Jack Flash, Skittles, Slider, Scramble, Beggar, Dancer, Tumbles, Hoppy, Popcorn, etc... Young guinea pigs are especially prone to surprising hops and skips, commonly called 'popcorning'. They will grow out of it eventually, but not before getting a name from the experience.
3. Famous Pig names.
Since you have a genuine 'pig' on your hands, you might go with a famous pig name. Porky, Arnold Ziffle, Petunia, Hogglesworth, Wilbur, Piggly Wiggly, etc. Kids love to equate animal names with other animals they learn about in school or on television.
4. Historical names.
If you have a pair of guinea pigs, you may want to choose names of famous lovers throughout history: Romeo and Juliet, Bonnie and Clyde, Mickey and Minny, Porky and Petunia, Adam and Eve, Samson and Delilah, Sabrina and Harvey, etc... Children may have their own favorite couples from their generation, so this may be a chance for them to make a decision on their own.
5. Traditional cat names.
Guinea pigs have a few traits in common with cats, so if you are absolutely stuck consider some traditional cat names like Snowball, Belle, Miss Piggy (instead of Kitty), Precious, Trixie, Soot, Boss, etc... If you lost a family pet, you might consider lending its name or legacy to the new pet as a good transition- use a variant like Smokey, Jr. or Scrabble II to honor the memory of a lost pet.
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
The Best Way To Handle Your Guinea Pig
What'S The Best Way To Handle Your Guinea Pig?
Should you handle guinea pigs? How do you do it? How often?
It is easy to form a close rapport with your pet guinea pig. An owner's relation to his or her pet is bonded by the close contact that they share together. Not all guinea pigs have the same personalities. You will notice that how you treat your guinea pig really affects how it responds to you.
What's the best way to handle a guinea pig?
To pick up your guinea pig you should place one hand under its stomach and once you lift it, place your other hand under its hind legs. Guinea pigs are shy and easily scared creatures so you should always handle them with great care. When holding your guinea always keep it comfortably supported. You can let your guinea pig lean against your chest looking up at you, or you can cradle it in your arms. If your guinea pig struggles then ease it back to the ground, you should never make it feel uncomfortable. Spend time with your guinea pig on the floor as well. It will get to know you this way, and will be more responsive to your presence.
How does handling a guinea pig affect it?
If a guinea pig struggles as you hold it, then you may be handling it too much. Its important to hold and love your guinea pig as much as possible, but if it doesn't want to be handled it may be scared or uncomfortable. Respect your pet. If you should treat your guinea pig with the care it desires then it will bond with you better. You may want to handle your guinea pig gradually at first and then more as it appears more comfortable. As you keep close contact with your pet, you are forming a deep bond that shows your love for it.
Should you handle guinea pigs? How do you do it? How often?
It is easy to form a close rapport with your pet guinea pig. An owner's relation to his or her pet is bonded by the close contact that they share together. Not all guinea pigs have the same personalities. You will notice that how you treat your guinea pig really affects how it responds to you.
What's the best way to handle a guinea pig?
To pick up your guinea pig you should place one hand under its stomach and once you lift it, place your other hand under its hind legs. Guinea pigs are shy and easily scared creatures so you should always handle them with great care. When holding your guinea always keep it comfortably supported. You can let your guinea pig lean against your chest looking up at you, or you can cradle it in your arms. If your guinea pig struggles then ease it back to the ground, you should never make it feel uncomfortable. Spend time with your guinea pig on the floor as well. It will get to know you this way, and will be more responsive to your presence.
How does handling a guinea pig affect it?
If a guinea pig struggles as you hold it, then you may be handling it too much. Its important to hold and love your guinea pig as much as possible, but if it doesn't want to be handled it may be scared or uncomfortable. Respect your pet. If you should treat your guinea pig with the care it desires then it will bond with you better. You may want to handle your guinea pig gradually at first and then more as it appears more comfortable. As you keep close contact with your pet, you are forming a deep bond that shows your love for it.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
How To Care For Guinea Pigs
How To Care For Guinea Pigs
How to care for guinea pigs: Aalso known as cavies, guinea pigs are fun but need proper care and attention for a happy and long life.
Guinea Pigs, also known as cavies, make wonderful pets. They are inexpensive and lots of fun. But they are also prone to illness if not properly cared for.
Feeding your Guinea Pig
Guinea Pigs love to chew, they will eat almost anything. So it is important to watch what is fed to them. Just because they eat something it isn't necessarily good for them.
Guinea Pigs are vegetarians. In the main they eat grains, grass, vegetables, peels and some herbs and fruit. The grains can be bought from your local supermarket, but be sure to buy the brand that has added Vitamin C. Guinea pigs are like humans in that they do not produce their own Vitamin C and must have a steady supply to remain healthy.
When feeding your Guinea Pig grasses and flowers from your garden be sure that they are not harmful, Guinea Pigs are susceptible to pesticides and herbicides. Also, when adding something new to their diet do it in small amounts for a few days and watch for any signs of illness. What is good for one Guinea Pig may cause problems for another.
Always make sure they have fresh clean water at all times. Guinea Pigs being Guinea Pigs, they tend to mess thier water supply.
Don't be alarmed if you see your Guinea Pig eating its own droppings, this is normal.
Housing your Guinea Pig
The first thing to decide in housing your Guinea Pigs is whether it will an indoor or outdoor pet. If it is to be kept outside, because Guinea Pigs in their natural state are prey, it is important to have an enclosed area for the Guinea Pig to run away to.
Indoor Guinea Pigs should have at least 2 square feet for each animal. They should also have a place to run away to.
The enclosed area should have fresh bedding, such as straw or newspaper strips, to help keep them warm. Their cages need to be cleaned every 1-3 days, particularly indoor ones.
If you allow your Guinea Pig to roam freely about the house it is essential that the animal does not have access to electrical wires as they find these irresistible and chew on them, sometimes through to the deadly wire.
Guinea Pigs also like to play so it is a good idea to put some objects in their cage that they can run over, under and through.
Grooming your Guinea Pig
Depending on the type of housing, Guinea Pigs should be bathed and brushed every 1-2 weeks. They should also have their nails clipped periodically.
It is also important for Guinea Pigs to have access to a piece of untreated wood. They will chew on this wood which will help keep their teeth short. Guinea Pigs' teeth grow continuously all their lives. If they do not have something hard to chew on their teeth will become too long and grow out of shape, thus making it hard for them to eat.
Petting your Guinea Pig
Guinea Pigs love to be petted, particularly if you only have one. Guinea Pigs are gregarious animals, and as such need companionship. You should nurse your Guinea Pig for at least 15 minutes each day, more if it is alone, and particularly if kept outside.
Most importantly, have fun with your Guinea Pig!
How to care for guinea pigs: Aalso known as cavies, guinea pigs are fun but need proper care and attention for a happy and long life.
Guinea Pigs, also known as cavies, make wonderful pets. They are inexpensive and lots of fun. But they are also prone to illness if not properly cared for.
Feeding your Guinea Pig
Guinea Pigs love to chew, they will eat almost anything. So it is important to watch what is fed to them. Just because they eat something it isn't necessarily good for them.
Guinea Pigs are vegetarians. In the main they eat grains, grass, vegetables, peels and some herbs and fruit. The grains can be bought from your local supermarket, but be sure to buy the brand that has added Vitamin C. Guinea pigs are like humans in that they do not produce their own Vitamin C and must have a steady supply to remain healthy.
When feeding your Guinea Pig grasses and flowers from your garden be sure that they are not harmful, Guinea Pigs are susceptible to pesticides and herbicides. Also, when adding something new to their diet do it in small amounts for a few days and watch for any signs of illness. What is good for one Guinea Pig may cause problems for another.
Always make sure they have fresh clean water at all times. Guinea Pigs being Guinea Pigs, they tend to mess thier water supply.
Don't be alarmed if you see your Guinea Pig eating its own droppings, this is normal.
Housing your Guinea Pig
The first thing to decide in housing your Guinea Pigs is whether it will an indoor or outdoor pet. If it is to be kept outside, because Guinea Pigs in their natural state are prey, it is important to have an enclosed area for the Guinea Pig to run away to.
Indoor Guinea Pigs should have at least 2 square feet for each animal. They should also have a place to run away to.
The enclosed area should have fresh bedding, such as straw or newspaper strips, to help keep them warm. Their cages need to be cleaned every 1-3 days, particularly indoor ones.
If you allow your Guinea Pig to roam freely about the house it is essential that the animal does not have access to electrical wires as they find these irresistible and chew on them, sometimes through to the deadly wire.
Guinea Pigs also like to play so it is a good idea to put some objects in their cage that they can run over, under and through.
Grooming your Guinea Pig
Depending on the type of housing, Guinea Pigs should be bathed and brushed every 1-2 weeks. They should also have their nails clipped periodically.
It is also important for Guinea Pigs to have access to a piece of untreated wood. They will chew on this wood which will help keep their teeth short. Guinea Pigs' teeth grow continuously all their lives. If they do not have something hard to chew on their teeth will become too long and grow out of shape, thus making it hard for them to eat.
Petting your Guinea Pig
Guinea Pigs love to be petted, particularly if you only have one. Guinea Pigs are gregarious animals, and as such need companionship. You should nurse your Guinea Pig for at least 15 minutes each day, more if it is alone, and particularly if kept outside.
Most importantly, have fun with your Guinea Pig!
Monday, January 19, 2009
Caring For Your Guinea Pig
Caring For Your Guinea Pig
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, and caring for your guinea pig properly can give your pet a long and heathy life.
Guinea pigs are very loving, sociable pets and require a lot of attention. If you are unable to give your guinea pig the social attention it needs, consider getting another one as a companion for your pet. If you decide to get more than one guinea pig, either get two females or a male and a female. Two males may not get along, and if you get a male and a female you may want to consider getting one of them neutered to prevent unwanted litters. Taking good care of your guinea pig will help it live a long and healthy life.
Make sure the cage you choose for your guinea pig has plenty of ventilation. Many people use an aquarium and they don't provide enough ventilation. The cage should be large enough for the guinea pig to comfortably move around in, and it needs to have a solid bottom. Wire bottoms are not good for the guinea pig's feet. Guinea pigs are timid creatures and like something to hide in. A paper lunch bag or small cardboard box is a great hiding place for your guinea pig. They can easily be thrown away and replaced when soiled.
Small animal bedding and litter is available to line your guinea pig's cage. Lining the bottom with newspaper first will absorb any liquid and make cage cleaning easier. You should remove and replace the soiled bedding once a week, and clean the cage with hot, soapy water.
Water bowls are not practical for a guinea pig. Guinea pigs need to have a water bottle with a drinking tube. Wash the bottle daily using a bottle brush and hot, soapy water. This will ensure that the water is clean and healthy to drink. Your guinea pig's food bowl should be made of heavy plastic or ceramic to prevent tipping. The food should be changed daily and the dish cleaned, since guinea pigs often sit and stand in their food dish.
Your guinea pig's diet should consist of a food blend made especially for guinea pigs, fresh vegetables, and hay. Lettuce, carrots, celery, pea pods, broccoli, and cauliflower are high in vitamin C and are good for your guinea pig. You can also feed your guinea pig dandelion greens, clover, and grass from your yard. Make certain that they have been washed and have never been sprayed with pesticides. Guinea pigs require vitamin C supplements besides the vitamin C in the vegetables and fruits you provide. These can be in the form of drops mixed in with the guinea pig's water. For added minerals, a salt and mineral block should be attached to your guinea pig's cage with a metal clip. Don't use strings or twine that your guinea pig can become tangled in.
Guinea pigs should be allowed to exercise out of their cage each day. A child's small swimming pool makes a great play area. The sides are just the right height, and it can be easily cleaned. The guinea pig cage can be set in the plastic swimming pool so your guinea pig can get food and water when it wants some.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, and caring for your guinea pig properly can give your pet a long and heathy life.
Guinea pigs are very loving, sociable pets and require a lot of attention. If you are unable to give your guinea pig the social attention it needs, consider getting another one as a companion for your pet. If you decide to get more than one guinea pig, either get two females or a male and a female. Two males may not get along, and if you get a male and a female you may want to consider getting one of them neutered to prevent unwanted litters. Taking good care of your guinea pig will help it live a long and healthy life.
Make sure the cage you choose for your guinea pig has plenty of ventilation. Many people use an aquarium and they don't provide enough ventilation. The cage should be large enough for the guinea pig to comfortably move around in, and it needs to have a solid bottom. Wire bottoms are not good for the guinea pig's feet. Guinea pigs are timid creatures and like something to hide in. A paper lunch bag or small cardboard box is a great hiding place for your guinea pig. They can easily be thrown away and replaced when soiled.
Small animal bedding and litter is available to line your guinea pig's cage. Lining the bottom with newspaper first will absorb any liquid and make cage cleaning easier. You should remove and replace the soiled bedding once a week, and clean the cage with hot, soapy water.
Water bowls are not practical for a guinea pig. Guinea pigs need to have a water bottle with a drinking tube. Wash the bottle daily using a bottle brush and hot, soapy water. This will ensure that the water is clean and healthy to drink. Your guinea pig's food bowl should be made of heavy plastic or ceramic to prevent tipping. The food should be changed daily and the dish cleaned, since guinea pigs often sit and stand in their food dish.
Your guinea pig's diet should consist of a food blend made especially for guinea pigs, fresh vegetables, and hay. Lettuce, carrots, celery, pea pods, broccoli, and cauliflower are high in vitamin C and are good for your guinea pig. You can also feed your guinea pig dandelion greens, clover, and grass from your yard. Make certain that they have been washed and have never been sprayed with pesticides. Guinea pigs require vitamin C supplements besides the vitamin C in the vegetables and fruits you provide. These can be in the form of drops mixed in with the guinea pig's water. For added minerals, a salt and mineral block should be attached to your guinea pig's cage with a metal clip. Don't use strings or twine that your guinea pig can become tangled in.
Guinea pigs should be allowed to exercise out of their cage each day. A child's small swimming pool makes a great play area. The sides are just the right height, and it can be easily cleaned. The guinea pig cage can be set in the plastic swimming pool so your guinea pig can get food and water when it wants some.
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Choosing The Proper Bedding For A Guinea Pig
Choosing The Proper Bedding For A Guinea Pig
Guinea pigs are very susceptible to respiratory illnesses, which may be aggravated by oily or dusty bedding. Here are the proper bedding materials for guinea pigs. Guinea pigs make ideal family pets, especially for families with small children. With their docile natures and natural sociability, guinea pigs make a great addition to the family unit. They have minimal food and water requirements, and relatively long lifespans for such small animals.
Their droppings are not offensive, and are easily disposable. Many guinea pigs become 'housebroken', learning to save any eliminations for their cages. Since they spend much of the time in their cage homes, choosing the proper bedding is essential. The wrong bedding can not only make a guinea pig uncomfortable, it can also cause potentially fatal illnesses. Here are the most common types of pet bedding used today, along with advice on whether or not to use the material in a guinea pig's cage.
1. Cedar shavings:
Commonly found in pet stores, cedar shavings are certainly one of the least expensive bedding materials available, and are usually used in situations that require a large amount of bedding. But cedar contains a very high concentration of tree oils, which is not good for a guinea pig's overall health. Cedar shavings are NOT recommended for a guinea pig's cage.
2. Pine shavings:
Lighter in color than cedar shavings, pine shavings are usually kept in stock at most pet stores. Some shavings look like flakes, while others may seem more like wood that has been 'ground up' by machinery. Very absorbent and fragrant, pine shavings are not a bad choice for guinea pigs, but not perfect, either. Pine also contains wood oils, which can irritate a guinea pig's system, plus can be a bit dusty. Excessive dust exposure can cause respiratory problems for small animals. Therefore, standard pine shavings are MARGINALLY ACCEPTABLE for guinea pig owners on a budget.
3. Aspen pine shavings:
This is the best compromise available at most pet stores. Aspen pine shavings are nearly oil-free, and the dust is negligible. Most guinea pig reference books will recommend Aspen pine bedding as the best choice for guinea pigs. A little pricier than the standard pine shavings, but worth it in the long run. Make sure you are indeed getting the Aspen variety of pine shavings when shopping. Because of its low oil content and dust-free nature, Aspen pine bedding is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for guinea pigs.
4. Natural hay bedding:
Guinea pigs go crazy for hay as a snack, so the use of it as bedding is bliss for guineas. Not nearly as absorbent as the wood chip beddings, but definitely popular with the one intended to use it. For those who prefer an all-organic approach to pet raising, hay is a good choice. But owners must be aware of any signs of mold or other spoilage. Natural hay may also have pollen or other dusty substances, so that may be a consideration. For the benefits of an organic bedding, natural hay is a GOOD choice, but more owner diligence may be required.
5. Newspaper:
Those pet owners who have observed gerbils or hamsters eagerly tear into newspaper and build nests may be surprised that the guinea pig does not share in this practice. Guinea pigs will chew newspaper, but will usually swallow it. They do not make nests with the lightly chewed remnants. Newspaper also traps urine in the upper layers, which can lead to odor troubles and 'urinary scalding' on the tender bellies of the guinea pigs. As a temporary fix while transporting a sick guinea pig to the vet or as a stopgap until regular bedding can be obtained, newspaper is an acceptable choice. But it should not be used as the permanent bedding. The inks can cause intestinal distress for the pig when ingested, and the potential for pneumonia is increased with wet bedding. For those reasons, newspaper is ACCEPTABLE as a temporary solution, but NOT ACCEPTABLE as a permanent bedding choice.
Some pet owners have suggested using cat litter under the bedding as a absorbent layer. While some may find this practice acceptable, the dust factor cannot be ignored. Baking soda is a more organic choice, and is better tolerated by the guinea pig. Cages should only be cleaned with acetic or citric acid products, such as white vinegar or orange-based cleaners labeled as safe for pet use.
Guinea pigs are very susceptible to respiratory illnesses, which may be aggravated by oily or dusty bedding. Here are the proper bedding materials for guinea pigs. Guinea pigs make ideal family pets, especially for families with small children. With their docile natures and natural sociability, guinea pigs make a great addition to the family unit. They have minimal food and water requirements, and relatively long lifespans for such small animals.
Their droppings are not offensive, and are easily disposable. Many guinea pigs become 'housebroken', learning to save any eliminations for their cages. Since they spend much of the time in their cage homes, choosing the proper bedding is essential. The wrong bedding can not only make a guinea pig uncomfortable, it can also cause potentially fatal illnesses. Here are the most common types of pet bedding used today, along with advice on whether or not to use the material in a guinea pig's cage.
1. Cedar shavings:
Commonly found in pet stores, cedar shavings are certainly one of the least expensive bedding materials available, and are usually used in situations that require a large amount of bedding. But cedar contains a very high concentration of tree oils, which is not good for a guinea pig's overall health. Cedar shavings are NOT recommended for a guinea pig's cage.
2. Pine shavings:
Lighter in color than cedar shavings, pine shavings are usually kept in stock at most pet stores. Some shavings look like flakes, while others may seem more like wood that has been 'ground up' by machinery. Very absorbent and fragrant, pine shavings are not a bad choice for guinea pigs, but not perfect, either. Pine also contains wood oils, which can irritate a guinea pig's system, plus can be a bit dusty. Excessive dust exposure can cause respiratory problems for small animals. Therefore, standard pine shavings are MARGINALLY ACCEPTABLE for guinea pig owners on a budget.
3. Aspen pine shavings:
This is the best compromise available at most pet stores. Aspen pine shavings are nearly oil-free, and the dust is negligible. Most guinea pig reference books will recommend Aspen pine bedding as the best choice for guinea pigs. A little pricier than the standard pine shavings, but worth it in the long run. Make sure you are indeed getting the Aspen variety of pine shavings when shopping. Because of its low oil content and dust-free nature, Aspen pine bedding is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for guinea pigs.
4. Natural hay bedding:
Guinea pigs go crazy for hay as a snack, so the use of it as bedding is bliss for guineas. Not nearly as absorbent as the wood chip beddings, but definitely popular with the one intended to use it. For those who prefer an all-organic approach to pet raising, hay is a good choice. But owners must be aware of any signs of mold or other spoilage. Natural hay may also have pollen or other dusty substances, so that may be a consideration. For the benefits of an organic bedding, natural hay is a GOOD choice, but more owner diligence may be required.
5. Newspaper:
Those pet owners who have observed gerbils or hamsters eagerly tear into newspaper and build nests may be surprised that the guinea pig does not share in this practice. Guinea pigs will chew newspaper, but will usually swallow it. They do not make nests with the lightly chewed remnants. Newspaper also traps urine in the upper layers, which can lead to odor troubles and 'urinary scalding' on the tender bellies of the guinea pigs. As a temporary fix while transporting a sick guinea pig to the vet or as a stopgap until regular bedding can be obtained, newspaper is an acceptable choice. But it should not be used as the permanent bedding. The inks can cause intestinal distress for the pig when ingested, and the potential for pneumonia is increased with wet bedding. For those reasons, newspaper is ACCEPTABLE as a temporary solution, but NOT ACCEPTABLE as a permanent bedding choice.
Some pet owners have suggested using cat litter under the bedding as a absorbent layer. While some may find this practice acceptable, the dust factor cannot be ignored. Baking soda is a more organic choice, and is better tolerated by the guinea pig. Cages should only be cleaned with acetic or citric acid products, such as white vinegar or orange-based cleaners labeled as safe for pet use.
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Choosing A Pet Guinea Pig
Choosing A Pet Guinea Pig
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, but not every breed may be suitable for your particular needs and lifestyle. Here is what to consider when choosing a breed of guinea pig for your family.
Because of their roles as laboratory test animals, guinea pigs have gained an unfair reputation as completely docile, lifeless pets who just sit in a cage and stare blankly at the world. Nothing could be further from the truth. Guinea pigs are very social animals and provide hours of entertainment with their curious antics and interaction with humans. They are less fragile than hamsters and gerbils, which is good for active children, and are very close in temperament to a rabbit, but not as "high maintenance." They rarely bite and are natural vegetarians. But not all guinea pig breeds are suitable for specific households and lifestyles. Before purchasing a guinea pig as a pet, consider the following differences between the three most common types of guinea pigs sold in America today.
One common breed of guinea pig is the short-haired variety. This is probably the first image of a guinea pig that will pop into your mind. The short-haired guinea pig is very sleek and clean in appearance, with a closely cropped coat of soft fur. It does have variations in color, mostly combinations of white, brown, cinnamon, and black. They resemble oversized mice in many respects, or large hamsters. Short-haired guineas do not shed much, which is a consideration if you prefer to keep a very tidy household. They are extremely easy to hold but can be a little slippery. Small children who do not have as much experience holding animals may find the short-haired variety a bit too challenging. I would recommend the short-haired variety for people who like their pets clean and sleek in appearance, with minimal shedding, and have older children who have handled animals in the past.
The second breed of guinea pig you might consider is the rough-coated variety. These crosses between the smooth-haired and long-haired variety are a little easier to hold for little hands because of their rough coats. There is a little more shedding involved, so you may notice a few more hairs around the house if the pet is handled often. The color scheme for a rough-haired guinea is the same as the smooth-hair, but occasionally the colors come out in tufts, which can give a rough-haired guinea a more comical appearance. Their fur's texture contains many whorls and cowlicks, so you'll never be able to completely groom a rough-haired guinea pig to "showroom quality." I recommend the rough-haired guinea pigs to parents with smaller children, and those who aren't as concerned with a pet's aesthetic qualities or shedding tendencies. Rough-hairs are wonderful pets but will always look like they just woke up with bad bed hair.
For the guinea pig enthusiast, long-haired guineas are usually the choice. With hair very similar to cats, the long-hairs are beautiful animals to behold, and very affectionate. Their colors can range from a solid white, black, brown, or cinnamon to a three-colored collage of shades. If you prefer an animal that is breathtakingly attractive, you may want to purchase a long-haired guinea pig. Although they still make wonderful family pets, the long-hairs may be too much work for small children. They require daily and diligent grooming because they are highly susceptible to matting. Trimming is not recommended because a guinea pig does not grow hair quickly. Whatever cuts you make in a guinea's fur are going to be there for a long time. Shedding is also considerable in a long-haired guinea. A long-haired guinea is not the sort of animal that can handle a three-day vacation with just some extra food and water. Other varieties may be left alone for several days if necessary, but long-hairs must be groomed religiously if you want them to maintain their beautiful coats. Therefore, I would recommend a long-haired guinea to the real guinea enthusiast who has the time to groom his/her pet and does not mind a buildup of pet hair around the house. Small children can enjoy a long-haired guinea but should be instructed on proper care and maintenance.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, but not every breed may be suitable for your particular needs and lifestyle. Here is what to consider when choosing a breed of guinea pig for your family.
Because of their roles as laboratory test animals, guinea pigs have gained an unfair reputation as completely docile, lifeless pets who just sit in a cage and stare blankly at the world. Nothing could be further from the truth. Guinea pigs are very social animals and provide hours of entertainment with their curious antics and interaction with humans. They are less fragile than hamsters and gerbils, which is good for active children, and are very close in temperament to a rabbit, but not as "high maintenance." They rarely bite and are natural vegetarians. But not all guinea pig breeds are suitable for specific households and lifestyles. Before purchasing a guinea pig as a pet, consider the following differences between the three most common types of guinea pigs sold in America today.
One common breed of guinea pig is the short-haired variety. This is probably the first image of a guinea pig that will pop into your mind. The short-haired guinea pig is very sleek and clean in appearance, with a closely cropped coat of soft fur. It does have variations in color, mostly combinations of white, brown, cinnamon, and black. They resemble oversized mice in many respects, or large hamsters. Short-haired guineas do not shed much, which is a consideration if you prefer to keep a very tidy household. They are extremely easy to hold but can be a little slippery. Small children who do not have as much experience holding animals may find the short-haired variety a bit too challenging. I would recommend the short-haired variety for people who like their pets clean and sleek in appearance, with minimal shedding, and have older children who have handled animals in the past.
The second breed of guinea pig you might consider is the rough-coated variety. These crosses between the smooth-haired and long-haired variety are a little easier to hold for little hands because of their rough coats. There is a little more shedding involved, so you may notice a few more hairs around the house if the pet is handled often. The color scheme for a rough-haired guinea is the same as the smooth-hair, but occasionally the colors come out in tufts, which can give a rough-haired guinea a more comical appearance. Their fur's texture contains many whorls and cowlicks, so you'll never be able to completely groom a rough-haired guinea pig to "showroom quality." I recommend the rough-haired guinea pigs to parents with smaller children, and those who aren't as concerned with a pet's aesthetic qualities or shedding tendencies. Rough-hairs are wonderful pets but will always look like they just woke up with bad bed hair.
For the guinea pig enthusiast, long-haired guineas are usually the choice. With hair very similar to cats, the long-hairs are beautiful animals to behold, and very affectionate. Their colors can range from a solid white, black, brown, or cinnamon to a three-colored collage of shades. If you prefer an animal that is breathtakingly attractive, you may want to purchase a long-haired guinea pig. Although they still make wonderful family pets, the long-hairs may be too much work for small children. They require daily and diligent grooming because they are highly susceptible to matting. Trimming is not recommended because a guinea pig does not grow hair quickly. Whatever cuts you make in a guinea's fur are going to be there for a long time. Shedding is also considerable in a long-haired guinea. A long-haired guinea is not the sort of animal that can handle a three-day vacation with just some extra food and water. Other varieties may be left alone for several days if necessary, but long-hairs must be groomed religiously if you want them to maintain their beautiful coats. Therefore, I would recommend a long-haired guinea to the real guinea enthusiast who has the time to groom his/her pet and does not mind a buildup of pet hair around the house. Small children can enjoy a long-haired guinea but should be instructed on proper care and maintenance.
Friday, January 16, 2009
Guinea Pig Information
Guinea Pig Information
Here's some information on a guinea pig's average life expectancy and the factors involved.
Guinea pigs make excellent housepets because of their docile natures and natural curiosity. Because they are strictly vegetarians, they rarely bite the hand that feeds them, which makes them safe for even the youngest owners. Owning a guinea pig is akin to owning a combination of a cat and a very large hamster at the same time. They are also very close in temperament to a rabbit, but not quite as high-maintenance. Guineas are affectionate, in their own way, and will develop a definite bond with their owners. Guinea pigs reach full size by their first year, and are content to live in a caged environment throughout their entire lifespan.
But what is the average lifespan of a guinea pig, and what events can change that expectation? In the wild, a guinea pig could only hope to survive the slowest predator on the hunt. A wild guinea pig would be lucky to see his third birthday, which is why they are such prodigious reproducers by nature. A baby guinea pig grows up very quickly, to help keep it indistiguishable from its adult counterparts. Wild guineas travel in packs, to keep predators unable to concentrate on a single member. Even so, guinea pigs have few natural defenses except for the ability to run quickly. Guinea pigs in the wild tend to hide in burrows for protection, a habit the domesticated variety will still exhibit.
A domesticated guinea pig's lifespan, however, is generally 8 to 12 years. This is assuming that the guinea in question has led an exemplary life, free of disease and stress. The best thing that can happen to a guinea pig is to die of old age. If the animal's diet is strictly monitored and it gets the proper amount of exercise, most owners should see a guinea pig celebrate at least his eighth birthday. But there are some factors that can cut this life expectancy down to as little as a year or so. Some are environental in nature, while other can be caused by neglect or owner mistakes. Here are some factors that might keep your guinea pig from living a normal lifespan.
1. Mishandling
This is the factor most likely to cause an early death in a very young guinea pig. Guinea pigs enjoy human contact, and will usually allow their owners to pick them up after a short 'fight'. Great care must be exercised when handling a guinea pig. Their limbs do not move in the same positions as a human, and can become dislocated easily. An undiagnosed and untreated broken bone can lead to more serious complications, such as infections and circulatory problems. Also, guinea pigs tend to jump when leaving an owner's grasp, which could lead to a serious fall or blow to the head. An injury from a fall could lead to internal bleeding and death. If a guinea pig is mishandled, this can reduce his life expectancy to under a year.
2. Dietary abnormalities
Guinea pig diets are usually a combination of dried pellets and fresh produce. The food pellets do contain a certain amount of fat, which can lead to obesity if overdone. An obese pig can expect to live half as long as a normal weight pig. Conversely, guinea pigs often stop eating as a result of other illnesses or stresses. Anorexia is a common disorder among domestic guinea pigs, possibly associated with the stress of living in a caged environment for so long. Anorexia will cause a pig to die within a month of onset. Certain foods, primarily raw beans and potato skins, contain certain enzymes that are poisonous to guinea pigs. Although most owners will take the time to consult manuals before feeding any new food to a guinea pig, occasionally mistakes can be made. Food poisoning is difficult to treat, but easily avoided.
3. Environmental factors
A guinea pig thrives on fairly warm, but not hot, room temperatures. They can easily become overheated and dehydrated in a room heated past 80 degrees. Dehydration is a major killer of guinea pigs, whatever the root cause. Conversely, guinea pigs are also susceptible to respiratory ailments caused by colds. Drafts and air conditioning can turn their cages into cold, damp disease centers. If a guinea pig is left to sleep in a cold, urine-soaked environment through owner neglect, it may contract a fatal case of pneumonia. Guinea pigs do not respond well to most traditional antibiotics, so treatment for a respiratory ailment is expensive and risky.
4. Internal factors
Guinea pigs have their own set of problems that could shorten their lifespan considerably. Much like a rabbit, a guinea pig's teeth grow continuously. They must wear their teeth down through chewing. Occasionally, a guinea pig's teeth will suddenly grow uncontrollably. This can cause an inability to eat food properly, which leads to anorexia and eventual death. Surgery may correct the problem, but the overgrowth may return at any time. Guineas also may develop what is called a megacolon. Although not necessarily a fatal condition in and of itself, a megacolon can indicate a growing dependence on outside help for a guinea pig's health. Basically, a guinea pig's large intestine develops a bulge, which overtaxes the guinea's sphincter muscle. The result is an inability to force out solid feces that builds up in the intestines. The owner must gently squeeze the area surrounding the anal opening, which should encourage the expelling of feces. This task must be performed regularly while the condition exists. This may mean the rest of the guinea's life. Such dependence on outside help may lead to a more lethargic and depressed pig in general, which can mean a reduced lifespan due to emotional stress and depression.
Here's some information on a guinea pig's average life expectancy and the factors involved.
Guinea pigs make excellent housepets because of their docile natures and natural curiosity. Because they are strictly vegetarians, they rarely bite the hand that feeds them, which makes them safe for even the youngest owners. Owning a guinea pig is akin to owning a combination of a cat and a very large hamster at the same time. They are also very close in temperament to a rabbit, but not quite as high-maintenance. Guineas are affectionate, in their own way, and will develop a definite bond with their owners. Guinea pigs reach full size by their first year, and are content to live in a caged environment throughout their entire lifespan.
But what is the average lifespan of a guinea pig, and what events can change that expectation? In the wild, a guinea pig could only hope to survive the slowest predator on the hunt. A wild guinea pig would be lucky to see his third birthday, which is why they are such prodigious reproducers by nature. A baby guinea pig grows up very quickly, to help keep it indistiguishable from its adult counterparts. Wild guineas travel in packs, to keep predators unable to concentrate on a single member. Even so, guinea pigs have few natural defenses except for the ability to run quickly. Guinea pigs in the wild tend to hide in burrows for protection, a habit the domesticated variety will still exhibit.
A domesticated guinea pig's lifespan, however, is generally 8 to 12 years. This is assuming that the guinea in question has led an exemplary life, free of disease and stress. The best thing that can happen to a guinea pig is to die of old age. If the animal's diet is strictly monitored and it gets the proper amount of exercise, most owners should see a guinea pig celebrate at least his eighth birthday. But there are some factors that can cut this life expectancy down to as little as a year or so. Some are environental in nature, while other can be caused by neglect or owner mistakes. Here are some factors that might keep your guinea pig from living a normal lifespan.
1. Mishandling
This is the factor most likely to cause an early death in a very young guinea pig. Guinea pigs enjoy human contact, and will usually allow their owners to pick them up after a short 'fight'. Great care must be exercised when handling a guinea pig. Their limbs do not move in the same positions as a human, and can become dislocated easily. An undiagnosed and untreated broken bone can lead to more serious complications, such as infections and circulatory problems. Also, guinea pigs tend to jump when leaving an owner's grasp, which could lead to a serious fall or blow to the head. An injury from a fall could lead to internal bleeding and death. If a guinea pig is mishandled, this can reduce his life expectancy to under a year.
2. Dietary abnormalities
Guinea pig diets are usually a combination of dried pellets and fresh produce. The food pellets do contain a certain amount of fat, which can lead to obesity if overdone. An obese pig can expect to live half as long as a normal weight pig. Conversely, guinea pigs often stop eating as a result of other illnesses or stresses. Anorexia is a common disorder among domestic guinea pigs, possibly associated with the stress of living in a caged environment for so long. Anorexia will cause a pig to die within a month of onset. Certain foods, primarily raw beans and potato skins, contain certain enzymes that are poisonous to guinea pigs. Although most owners will take the time to consult manuals before feeding any new food to a guinea pig, occasionally mistakes can be made. Food poisoning is difficult to treat, but easily avoided.
3. Environmental factors
A guinea pig thrives on fairly warm, but not hot, room temperatures. They can easily become overheated and dehydrated in a room heated past 80 degrees. Dehydration is a major killer of guinea pigs, whatever the root cause. Conversely, guinea pigs are also susceptible to respiratory ailments caused by colds. Drafts and air conditioning can turn their cages into cold, damp disease centers. If a guinea pig is left to sleep in a cold, urine-soaked environment through owner neglect, it may contract a fatal case of pneumonia. Guinea pigs do not respond well to most traditional antibiotics, so treatment for a respiratory ailment is expensive and risky.
4. Internal factors
Guinea pigs have their own set of problems that could shorten their lifespan considerably. Much like a rabbit, a guinea pig's teeth grow continuously. They must wear their teeth down through chewing. Occasionally, a guinea pig's teeth will suddenly grow uncontrollably. This can cause an inability to eat food properly, which leads to anorexia and eventual death. Surgery may correct the problem, but the overgrowth may return at any time. Guineas also may develop what is called a megacolon. Although not necessarily a fatal condition in and of itself, a megacolon can indicate a growing dependence on outside help for a guinea pig's health. Basically, a guinea pig's large intestine develops a bulge, which overtaxes the guinea's sphincter muscle. The result is an inability to force out solid feces that builds up in the intestines. The owner must gently squeeze the area surrounding the anal opening, which should encourage the expelling of feces. This task must be performed regularly while the condition exists. This may mean the rest of the guinea's life. Such dependence on outside help may lead to a more lethargic and depressed pig in general, which can mean a reduced lifespan due to emotional stress and depression.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Build A House For Your Pet Snake
How To Build A House For Your Pet Snake
What kinds of things do snakes need to survive in captivity? How do you make your snake feel at home?
You should keep your snake in as large a tank as possible. Even small snakes should have at least 20-gallon tanks in which they can live. It will need plenty of room to eat, sleep, bask, and move around in.
The other important feature is the top. It must be secure enough so that the snake cannot open it. Snakes can be strong and will try to push itself out. Once it gets a space wide enough for its head to stick out, it can easily escape.
What to include inside the tank?
Snakes like to hide at times away from everything. Construct a small boxy area in the tank where it can sneak away to when it wants.
Get a decent sized branch for it to crawl on, as well. Snakes like to climb and rest on tree limbs. But be sure to soak it in a chlorine/water solution in order to kill the bugs off. Then rinse the branch thoroughly and allow it to dry.
Some snakes prefer pine wood chips, others like carpet, and still others thrive on "Astroturf," believe it or not. If you are going to use carpet or Astroturf, be sure to completely wash and dry it before putting it in. If you use pine chips, watch for urine and feces and remove the soiled chips as soon as possible, as it will become a prime breeding ground for fungus. Snakes like to burrow under the base of their tanks.
What conditions to maintain in your snake's tank?
Your snake will need to have a couple different climates in the tank. You'll want to consider buying an incandescent light bulb and set it up outside the tank. Shine the light against only part of the tank, so the snake will have a good place where it can bask, and put the light on a timer, so the snake won't overheat. Most snakes need the temperature of their tank to be between 70 and 85 degrees. The lower temperature at night, and the higher temperature so it can most effectively digest its food.
What kinds of things do snakes need to survive in captivity? How do you make your snake feel at home?
You should keep your snake in as large a tank as possible. Even small snakes should have at least 20-gallon tanks in which they can live. It will need plenty of room to eat, sleep, bask, and move around in.
The other important feature is the top. It must be secure enough so that the snake cannot open it. Snakes can be strong and will try to push itself out. Once it gets a space wide enough for its head to stick out, it can easily escape.
What to include inside the tank?
Snakes like to hide at times away from everything. Construct a small boxy area in the tank where it can sneak away to when it wants.
Get a decent sized branch for it to crawl on, as well. Snakes like to climb and rest on tree limbs. But be sure to soak it in a chlorine/water solution in order to kill the bugs off. Then rinse the branch thoroughly and allow it to dry.
Some snakes prefer pine wood chips, others like carpet, and still others thrive on "Astroturf," believe it or not. If you are going to use carpet or Astroturf, be sure to completely wash and dry it before putting it in. If you use pine chips, watch for urine and feces and remove the soiled chips as soon as possible, as it will become a prime breeding ground for fungus. Snakes like to burrow under the base of their tanks.
What conditions to maintain in your snake's tank?
Your snake will need to have a couple different climates in the tank. You'll want to consider buying an incandescent light bulb and set it up outside the tank. Shine the light against only part of the tank, so the snake will have a good place where it can bask, and put the light on a timer, so the snake won't overheat. Most snakes need the temperature of their tank to be between 70 and 85 degrees. The lower temperature at night, and the higher temperature so it can most effectively digest its food.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Keeping Snakes As Pets
Keeping Snakes As Pets
Snake can be kept as pets safely and correctly in your home by choosing the right terrarium and equiping it properly.
Keeping snakes as pets is an interesting and rewarding hobby. However, the first thing you should realise about this pastime is it requires a fair amount of dedication, and so you should only consider it if you seriously believe you meet this requirement. You must also consider the other people you live with; they might not be as keen on the Giant Python as you first thought.
These points aside, the main consideration is choosing which of the many types of snakes you wish to keep. If you wish to keep one of the larger snakes as a pet you must decide if you have enough room to build a suitably sized terrarium. A terrarium is a container in which living plants and creatures are kept in an environment that replicates the natural environment, and can be built in several different styles to suit requirements.
It is best to construct the terrarium yourself to modify according to the dimensions of your house, the needs of your snake species and of course your financial status. One built fully out of glass is suitable for the varieties of smaller snakes, and those that require high humidity, because the glass will not be affected by damp problems. If your pets only require low to medium humidity then a glass fronted wooden terrarium would be suitable. Both of these sorts of terrarium can be adapted in terms of height, and should be made taller if you are considering keeping snakes that naturally dwell in trees.
The walls of a terrarium can be built out of brick, but this should only be done on a solid concrete base. This is a more permanent adjustment to a part of the house, so it is essential to draw plans first. Consulting with an expert is also a good idea. If you are serious about keeping large snakes as pets, it may be necessary to convert a whole room into a terrarium. Make sure all escape routes are sealed off though, and cover the windows with wire mesh, so ventilation can be provided by opening the window without letting the snake escape.
The plants and natural elements in each terrarium should mirror the natural elements of the different types of snakes. Essential features though include a hide box, a small box that the snake has narrow access to where it can hide and sleep. Another essential is lighting to keep the snake warm, which can be bought from specialist pet shops. As a general guide the temperature range should be between 70f and 77f.
Snakes will eat anything that moves that they can overpower. Even a pig is not able to daunt the appetite of some of the giant snakes. Use your common sense, and do not put prey in that is too large for a smaller snake as it might cause injury. Oh, and a final word of warning – don't be tempted to use the pets of family or neighbours as a cheap source of food for your snakes!
Snake can be kept as pets safely and correctly in your home by choosing the right terrarium and equiping it properly.
Keeping snakes as pets is an interesting and rewarding hobby. However, the first thing you should realise about this pastime is it requires a fair amount of dedication, and so you should only consider it if you seriously believe you meet this requirement. You must also consider the other people you live with; they might not be as keen on the Giant Python as you first thought.
These points aside, the main consideration is choosing which of the many types of snakes you wish to keep. If you wish to keep one of the larger snakes as a pet you must decide if you have enough room to build a suitably sized terrarium. A terrarium is a container in which living plants and creatures are kept in an environment that replicates the natural environment, and can be built in several different styles to suit requirements.
It is best to construct the terrarium yourself to modify according to the dimensions of your house, the needs of your snake species and of course your financial status. One built fully out of glass is suitable for the varieties of smaller snakes, and those that require high humidity, because the glass will not be affected by damp problems. If your pets only require low to medium humidity then a glass fronted wooden terrarium would be suitable. Both of these sorts of terrarium can be adapted in terms of height, and should be made taller if you are considering keeping snakes that naturally dwell in trees.
The walls of a terrarium can be built out of brick, but this should only be done on a solid concrete base. This is a more permanent adjustment to a part of the house, so it is essential to draw plans first. Consulting with an expert is also a good idea. If you are serious about keeping large snakes as pets, it may be necessary to convert a whole room into a terrarium. Make sure all escape routes are sealed off though, and cover the windows with wire mesh, so ventilation can be provided by opening the window without letting the snake escape.
The plants and natural elements in each terrarium should mirror the natural elements of the different types of snakes. Essential features though include a hide box, a small box that the snake has narrow access to where it can hide and sleep. Another essential is lighting to keep the snake warm, which can be bought from specialist pet shops. As a general guide the temperature range should be between 70f and 77f.
Snakes will eat anything that moves that they can overpower. Even a pig is not able to daunt the appetite of some of the giant snakes. Use your common sense, and do not put prey in that is too large for a smaller snake as it might cause injury. Oh, and a final word of warning – don't be tempted to use the pets of family or neighbours as a cheap source of food for your snakes!
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Snakes As Pets
Snakes As Pets
Snakes can be good as pets; before diving head first into buying one however, you should know what you're getting into.
The relationship between man and snake has almost always been encouraged by fear. Unexpected encounters with snakes have led to many a horror story and the furthering of a fear that isn't always rooted in truth.
More and more, people are acquiring snakes as pets and learning that, despite their seedy reputation, the snake is and will always be a mysterious, fascinating creature.
Though there are a wide variety of snakes that have been domesticated, the safest and easiest snakes to keep as pets are pythons, corn and rat snakes. For those interested in observing nature up close, a snake can make a great companion. There are several factors to consider, however, before purchasing a snake:
1. Fear: If you or a member of your family has a fear of snakes, don't assume that owning a snake will cure your phobia. It won't. Make certain that you and every member of your household is comfortable around snakes.
2. Eating habits: Snakes eat rodents, frogs, insects and other snakes. If you're not comfortable handling these items, it's best to consider another pet.
3. Size: Many snakes in the boa family grow up to 15 feet in length. You may bring home a cute 12 inch pet, but remember, this snake will mature and grow rapidly. You will need to provide a fairly large cage for your snake to grow in to.
"SNAKE CARE"
TEMPERATURE
Because snakes are reptiles, they have no internal thermometer to regulate body temperature. This will be your job. You will need to provide special lighting, which your snake will bask in when it's cold. Alternatively, you'll also need to provide a hiding area that your pet can crawl into when it's warm. The use of infra red basking lamps work well to warm snakes and simple flower pots (turned upside down) can provide enough shelter for your pet to cool off.
FOOD AND WATER
Snakes need fresh water. You may not ever see your pet drink, but regardless, it's a necessary staple. Many pet snakes will soak themselves in the water, so be sure to use a shallow bowl and one that cannot be tipped over. Water that you provide your snake with should be room temperature.
Snakes survive on a diet of mice and rodents. Frozen rodents are sold in pet food stores and are disease and parasite free. While you can feed your snake live rodents, you will run the risk of infecting your pet with an unknown disease.
DISEASE
Snakes can and do get sick, just like any other animal. The most common ailment in snakes is the infestation of parasites. Mites and bugs are visible and appear as tiny black beads on the outside of your pet and the lining of his cage. Both mites and parasites can be treated with the help of medication. Don't underestimate mites! If allowed to breed and grow, a large number of mites can suck almost all of your snake's blood, leaving him defenseless and in a life and death struggle.
More serious conditions can hamper your snake's overall health, as well. Symptoms such as weight loss, runny stools, sudden refusal to eat, or staring upwards constantly are all signs that your pet needs veterinarian care immediately.
THE DANGERS
Unlike owning a different sort of pet, there are certain things that you absolutely cannot do. Take special precautions to:
1. Never place your unprotected hand inside your pet's cage during feeding time. Understand that your snake only sees food when you reach your hand inside it's cage with a mouse. It is very difficult for your pet to differentiate between your hand and it's food supply. Always feed your pet using a glove or "black box." A "black box" is a small box that contains a rodent or other food supply. By tipping the box and dropping your pet's food, you will protect yourself from an unintentional bite.
2. Never put your snake around your neck. Yes, every pet owner tries it and though it may look and feel completely safe, it's not. Snakes naturally constrict during times of stress. A snake can choke its owner in under ten minutes.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
Like all pets, snakes need special care and supplies. Make sure you at least have the following:
Terrarium: This will be your snake's home. Make it as comfortable as possible, filling the floor with newspaper and bedding, several rocks and something for your pet to crawl under. A ten gallon sized terrarium is great for small snakes, but you'll need to provide more room for your pet as it grows. Be certain your terrarium has a sliding door somewhere (for easy feeding) and a lock to prevent accidental escapes.
High Range Thermometer: You'll need a thermometer to keep your pet's body temperature elevated. Each snake requires a different amount of heat, so study up on the breed you'll be bringing home.
Heat Pad/Heat Lamp: Many snake owners have both a heating pad and a heating lamp. While the pad isn't entirely necessary, it is an easy way to keep your pet at the proper temperature. A range of 82-90-degrees is recommended for most breeds.
Water Pan: Don't forget the water. Your snake will need fresh water every day.
Shedding Help: Your pet will shed approximately once every three months. You'll know when your snake is shedding by his "off appearance." Your snake's eyes will become cloudy and small pieces of skin will line the bottom of his cage. You can help your pet through this phase by soaking him in pre-shedding lotions. If you choose not to do this, be certain to remove shedded skin from your pet's living area often.
Snakes can make a nice, educational experience for any family. It's good to know what you're getting into before purchasing a snake, however. Talk with others (including pet store personal) to learn more about snakes and the breed you're interested in.
Snakes can be good as pets; before diving head first into buying one however, you should know what you're getting into.
The relationship between man and snake has almost always been encouraged by fear. Unexpected encounters with snakes have led to many a horror story and the furthering of a fear that isn't always rooted in truth.
More and more, people are acquiring snakes as pets and learning that, despite their seedy reputation, the snake is and will always be a mysterious, fascinating creature.
Though there are a wide variety of snakes that have been domesticated, the safest and easiest snakes to keep as pets are pythons, corn and rat snakes. For those interested in observing nature up close, a snake can make a great companion. There are several factors to consider, however, before purchasing a snake:
1. Fear: If you or a member of your family has a fear of snakes, don't assume that owning a snake will cure your phobia. It won't. Make certain that you and every member of your household is comfortable around snakes.
2. Eating habits: Snakes eat rodents, frogs, insects and other snakes. If you're not comfortable handling these items, it's best to consider another pet.
3. Size: Many snakes in the boa family grow up to 15 feet in length. You may bring home a cute 12 inch pet, but remember, this snake will mature and grow rapidly. You will need to provide a fairly large cage for your snake to grow in to.
"SNAKE CARE"
TEMPERATURE
Because snakes are reptiles, they have no internal thermometer to regulate body temperature. This will be your job. You will need to provide special lighting, which your snake will bask in when it's cold. Alternatively, you'll also need to provide a hiding area that your pet can crawl into when it's warm. The use of infra red basking lamps work well to warm snakes and simple flower pots (turned upside down) can provide enough shelter for your pet to cool off.
FOOD AND WATER
Snakes need fresh water. You may not ever see your pet drink, but regardless, it's a necessary staple. Many pet snakes will soak themselves in the water, so be sure to use a shallow bowl and one that cannot be tipped over. Water that you provide your snake with should be room temperature.
Snakes survive on a diet of mice and rodents. Frozen rodents are sold in pet food stores and are disease and parasite free. While you can feed your snake live rodents, you will run the risk of infecting your pet with an unknown disease.
DISEASE
Snakes can and do get sick, just like any other animal. The most common ailment in snakes is the infestation of parasites. Mites and bugs are visible and appear as tiny black beads on the outside of your pet and the lining of his cage. Both mites and parasites can be treated with the help of medication. Don't underestimate mites! If allowed to breed and grow, a large number of mites can suck almost all of your snake's blood, leaving him defenseless and in a life and death struggle.
More serious conditions can hamper your snake's overall health, as well. Symptoms such as weight loss, runny stools, sudden refusal to eat, or staring upwards constantly are all signs that your pet needs veterinarian care immediately.
THE DANGERS
Unlike owning a different sort of pet, there are certain things that you absolutely cannot do. Take special precautions to:
1. Never place your unprotected hand inside your pet's cage during feeding time. Understand that your snake only sees food when you reach your hand inside it's cage with a mouse. It is very difficult for your pet to differentiate between your hand and it's food supply. Always feed your pet using a glove or "black box." A "black box" is a small box that contains a rodent or other food supply. By tipping the box and dropping your pet's food, you will protect yourself from an unintentional bite.
2. Never put your snake around your neck. Yes, every pet owner tries it and though it may look and feel completely safe, it's not. Snakes naturally constrict during times of stress. A snake can choke its owner in under ten minutes.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
Like all pets, snakes need special care and supplies. Make sure you at least have the following:
Terrarium: This will be your snake's home. Make it as comfortable as possible, filling the floor with newspaper and bedding, several rocks and something for your pet to crawl under. A ten gallon sized terrarium is great for small snakes, but you'll need to provide more room for your pet as it grows. Be certain your terrarium has a sliding door somewhere (for easy feeding) and a lock to prevent accidental escapes.
High Range Thermometer: You'll need a thermometer to keep your pet's body temperature elevated. Each snake requires a different amount of heat, so study up on the breed you'll be bringing home.
Heat Pad/Heat Lamp: Many snake owners have both a heating pad and a heating lamp. While the pad isn't entirely necessary, it is an easy way to keep your pet at the proper temperature. A range of 82-90-degrees is recommended for most breeds.
Water Pan: Don't forget the water. Your snake will need fresh water every day.
Shedding Help: Your pet will shed approximately once every three months. You'll know when your snake is shedding by his "off appearance." Your snake's eyes will become cloudy and small pieces of skin will line the bottom of his cage. You can help your pet through this phase by soaking him in pre-shedding lotions. If you choose not to do this, be certain to remove shedded skin from your pet's living area often.
Snakes can make a nice, educational experience for any family. It's good to know what you're getting into before purchasing a snake, however. Talk with others (including pet store personal) to learn more about snakes and the breed you're interested in.
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