Bird Breeding
What do birds do when they breed? What time of year do they do it? What are the different ways male and female birds attract each other?
What factors do you need to consider when you breed birds?
You'll want to research your species of birds carefully before you begin the breeding process to determine the proper temperature you'll need to maintain. Some birds require as much as 100-or-more-degree heat in order for their reproductive organs to begin working properly.
When breeding birds, feed them more. Give them food with more nutritional value so they can properly support their breeding effort. It takes more nutrients for them to maintain healthy and large reproductive organs, eggs, and semen. Also, crush Vitamin E tablets to assist the process. Find the diet that's right for your particular type of bird. In nature, birds eat bugs and worms during the spring. Make sure they are eating plenty of vegetables and fruits as well. If you buy bird food from a box, check the label to make sure the birds are getting the proper nutrition.
How do birds mate?
Birds breed in the spring. Male birds generally become aggressive, while females begin to build nests. Provide the necessary nesting material for your female bird. They breed at young ages and often produce many chicks each year. The females choose their partners, so it is during the spring months that male birds are at their most colorful and most intelligent.
When birds have picked their partners, the process they undertake often leads you to wonder whether copulation even happened at all. The male bird climbs onto the back of the female and she moves her tail to the side. The female's genital opening is on the other side, and the male leans onto those openings. The male and female's genitals only are pressed together for a moment or two, then the male dismounts and the process is complete.
How do you know if your bird is bearing eggs?
One major way to tell whether your female bird is bearing eggs is to notice its flight habits. The weight of the egg is often too heavy a load for the bird to handle and it won't fly much, if at all. In order for embryos to properly develop, provide your bird with water to drink.
How can you keep your bird eggs safe?
Bird eggs are incredibly fragile. They have to be in order for the birds to peck their way out when the time comes. Female birds want their eggs to be warm and secure. You can help this process in your home with an incubating light. Find out which temperature is right for your breed. You'll want to allow the mother to be near her eggs, so she can care for them. Keep potential predators away. Mother birds are always cautious about her eggs.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Proper Feeding For Your Bird
Proper Feeding For Your Bird
Proper feeeding for your bird, including a recipe for a base diet.
A seed-only diet for birds is the equuivalent of feeding a 2 yr old only crackers and water; nothing else. Nowadays we know that other sources ofnutrition come from a variety of whole-food sources. These sources come from veggies (including dark, green leafy types), some fruit, and a base diet.
A recommended base diet is one including legumes, whole grain brown rice, pastas, pearl barley, thawed frozen veggies (which are the highest in nutrition), and granulated sea kelp-a natural source of necessary iodine. The recipe for a good base diet is as follows:
Cook each of the following ingredients separately.
Combine first four ingredients, mix completely. Add frozen veggies, layered on top of mixture, sprinkle lightly with granulated sea kelp. Bag individual portions and freeze. Defrost to serve.
This will be the main diet, or base, you will serve every morning at feeding time. The base diet and seed are coupled with dark, leafy greens and some fruit. The above items should be rinsed thoroughly to remove pesticides. A source of whole grains, found in Cherrios, toast, or no-salt crackers.
Follow this sure bet for optimum health in your bird. it is a menu which will increase your pet's longevity.
Happy birding!
Proper feeeding for your bird, including a recipe for a base diet.
A seed-only diet for birds is the equuivalent of feeding a 2 yr old only crackers and water; nothing else. Nowadays we know that other sources ofnutrition come from a variety of whole-food sources. These sources come from veggies (including dark, green leafy types), some fruit, and a base diet.
A recommended base diet is one including legumes, whole grain brown rice, pastas, pearl barley, thawed frozen veggies (which are the highest in nutrition), and granulated sea kelp-a natural source of necessary iodine. The recipe for a good base diet is as follows:
Cook each of the following ingredients separately.
- 1 c pearl barley to 2 c water, cook until water is absorbed.
- 1 pkg 16 bean soup mix (minus seasoning) Cover with water, bring to full boil, boil 40 min., until just tender
- 1 c lg. elbow macaroni; cover with water, boil 7 min.
- 2 pkg ramen noodles (minus seasoning) Add to macaroni, boil both 3 min. more, drain and rinse.
- 9 c frozen mixed veggies, unthawed.
Combine first four ingredients, mix completely. Add frozen veggies, layered on top of mixture, sprinkle lightly with granulated sea kelp. Bag individual portions and freeze. Defrost to serve.
This will be the main diet, or base, you will serve every morning at feeding time. The base diet and seed are coupled with dark, leafy greens and some fruit. The above items should be rinsed thoroughly to remove pesticides. A source of whole grains, found in Cherrios, toast, or no-salt crackers.
Follow this sure bet for optimum health in your bird. it is a menu which will increase your pet's longevity.
Happy birding!
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Pet Bird Care
Pet Bird Care - Birdproof Your Home
Care for your new pet bird by preparing your home for its new inhabitant.
Before you bring a bird into your home there are some things you need to consider to make your home safe for your new friend. You will most likely need to make a few changes and take some precautions to bird-proof your home. Here is a list of things to change.
Chemical Hazards.
Most cleaning products or bug sprays will harm a bird, maybe even kill it. Aerosol sprays that you use to make your house smell pretty are very dangerous to a bird. Many times there is a safer alternative to sprays and harmful chemicals such as potpourri to keep a pleasant scent in your home.
You may want to consider chili powder around window sills and doorways to keep bugs out. Any uncertainty on a spray can should be confirmed or discussed with a vet. Ask your vet about other dangers to birds.
Ceilings, Doors and Windows.
You should always clip your bird's wings. Clipping wings will discourage a variety of undesirable behaviors. However, in the event you opt not to clip wings, you should consider that three things could and most likely will become hazards.
Ceiling fans in the room with your bird pose the threat of death since without clipped wings, the bird can gain flight into the swirling fan. Doors in that room should never lead outside. If the bird escapes it will not likely return and will not survive in the wild. That goes the same for windows, never leave them open.
Freedom.
Letting your bird roam freely will enhance your relationship with your bird. However, you must consider any hazards to a bird. A variety of everyday products will pose threats to your birds safety. These things include: electrical wires, cords, outlets, and certain foods. Certain foods we eat may cause death or illness to a bird.
If you take these steps in bird-proofing your home you will enjoy a fruitful life with your bird.
What human foods are harmful to birds?
While you may hear stories of your friends feeding your birds all kinds of fun human foods, all human foods are not always safe for birds. A good rule of thumb is to pretty much stick to feeding your birds fruits and bread products, if you must feed them something. Some foods that are toxic to birds include chocolate, aspirin, coffee, alcohol, and wild mushrooms.
Care for your new pet bird by preparing your home for its new inhabitant.
Before you bring a bird into your home there are some things you need to consider to make your home safe for your new friend. You will most likely need to make a few changes and take some precautions to bird-proof your home. Here is a list of things to change.
Chemical Hazards.
Most cleaning products or bug sprays will harm a bird, maybe even kill it. Aerosol sprays that you use to make your house smell pretty are very dangerous to a bird. Many times there is a safer alternative to sprays and harmful chemicals such as potpourri to keep a pleasant scent in your home.
You may want to consider chili powder around window sills and doorways to keep bugs out. Any uncertainty on a spray can should be confirmed or discussed with a vet. Ask your vet about other dangers to birds.
Ceilings, Doors and Windows.
You should always clip your bird's wings. Clipping wings will discourage a variety of undesirable behaviors. However, in the event you opt not to clip wings, you should consider that three things could and most likely will become hazards.
Ceiling fans in the room with your bird pose the threat of death since without clipped wings, the bird can gain flight into the swirling fan. Doors in that room should never lead outside. If the bird escapes it will not likely return and will not survive in the wild. That goes the same for windows, never leave them open.
Freedom.
Letting your bird roam freely will enhance your relationship with your bird. However, you must consider any hazards to a bird. A variety of everyday products will pose threats to your birds safety. These things include: electrical wires, cords, outlets, and certain foods. Certain foods we eat may cause death or illness to a bird.
If you take these steps in bird-proofing your home you will enjoy a fruitful life with your bird.
What human foods are harmful to birds?
While you may hear stories of your friends feeding your birds all kinds of fun human foods, all human foods are not always safe for birds. A good rule of thumb is to pretty much stick to feeding your birds fruits and bread products, if you must feed them something. Some foods that are toxic to birds include chocolate, aspirin, coffee, alcohol, and wild mushrooms.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Purchasing A First Bird
Purchasing A First Bird: Breeder Vs Pet Store
The differences between purchasing a bird through a bird breeder or a pet store.
Congratulations! After much consideration and research, you have decided a bird will suit both you and your lifestyle. I assure you, you will not be disappaointed! The "bird world" is exciting, colorful and emotionally fulfilling.
Now that you've decided which species of hookbill or waxbill you choose, the next question should be "Where do I GET a bird?" This article will deal with the two top favorites of acquiring your new family member. These choices are through 1) A bird breeder 2) Commercial pet shop.
A breeder is considered professional if 30 or more birds are sold per year. Any less and they are referred to as a hobbyist breeder. Fifteen years ago, the breeder simply bred birds, selling babies directly out of the nest, or relying on an experienced handfeeder for the weaning process. The handfeeder charged a separate fee for services rendered. Nowadays, it is more common for the breeder to include handfeeding before releasing possession to the new owner. There are both pros and cons to this method. A handfeeder can still be hired for their services, after checking out thir environment and workplace, and most certainly checking on supplied references. Only an experienced handfeeder should be considered! A private handfeeder will wean your baby until it is fully weaned, the duration of which depends on the species. No reputable breeder or handfeeder will releae a baby without it being FULLY weaned, regardless of the time involved.
Professional handfeeders generally do not take on more than they can handle. This means their services are usually on a more personal level, with more intense dedication. Much time is spent on socialization and human/bird bonding techniques. Ideally the baby is abundantly weaned and is raised with loving dedication, patience, and mutual respect.
If your bird is purchased from a professional breeder, they will be the one to handfeed and successfully wean. This is generally included in the buying price. This is good in terms of natural socialization i.e. interacting with other baby birds, a breeder may be more able to offer this important, but not absolutely necessary, service. Most professionals are already overworked and important undertakings. There simply may not be the time available to ensure abundant weaning, playtime and personal interaction, which are crucial for a companion pet bird. This is mostly due to a lack of time, but also one of interest at times. After-sale support should also be available and will be offered by reputable breeders and handfeeders. No matter how many years you may have in bird experience, there is always new information and knowledge being learned by all of us, all the while unselfishly passing on the information being learned.
We will now consider another alternative-the commercial pet shop. Keep in mind, a pet shop may not specialize in birds, including crucial after-sale support. If your bird turns ill, or is acting in a peculiar manner, or questions arise, you will need somewhere to turn, who is familiar with your bird and type, to fully anser these.
Pet shops are in business for one reason-PROFIT. When this is the motivator, I caution you-BUYER BEWARE! Below are listed 10 considerations you must ask to ensure both you and your bird's needs are met:
The best thing you can offer your new baby is taking the time and effort to continue learning all you can with issues like feeding, health, characteristics, etc., can be learned by one-on-one sessions with other bird owners, published literature, books and magazines, as well as joining your local avicultural organization. We learn nothing by ourselves-it must be passed along!
Having a companion pet bird owner will be one of the most enjoyable, satisfying relationships you will ever find yourself in. Happy birding!
The differences between purchasing a bird through a bird breeder or a pet store.
Congratulations! After much consideration and research, you have decided a bird will suit both you and your lifestyle. I assure you, you will not be disappaointed! The "bird world" is exciting, colorful and emotionally fulfilling.
Now that you've decided which species of hookbill or waxbill you choose, the next question should be "Where do I GET a bird?" This article will deal with the two top favorites of acquiring your new family member. These choices are through 1) A bird breeder 2) Commercial pet shop.
A breeder is considered professional if 30 or more birds are sold per year. Any less and they are referred to as a hobbyist breeder. Fifteen years ago, the breeder simply bred birds, selling babies directly out of the nest, or relying on an experienced handfeeder for the weaning process. The handfeeder charged a separate fee for services rendered. Nowadays, it is more common for the breeder to include handfeeding before releasing possession to the new owner. There are both pros and cons to this method. A handfeeder can still be hired for their services, after checking out thir environment and workplace, and most certainly checking on supplied references. Only an experienced handfeeder should be considered! A private handfeeder will wean your baby until it is fully weaned, the duration of which depends on the species. No reputable breeder or handfeeder will releae a baby without it being FULLY weaned, regardless of the time involved.
Professional handfeeders generally do not take on more than they can handle. This means their services are usually on a more personal level, with more intense dedication. Much time is spent on socialization and human/bird bonding techniques. Ideally the baby is abundantly weaned and is raised with loving dedication, patience, and mutual respect.
If your bird is purchased from a professional breeder, they will be the one to handfeed and successfully wean. This is generally included in the buying price. This is good in terms of natural socialization i.e. interacting with other baby birds, a breeder may be more able to offer this important, but not absolutely necessary, service. Most professionals are already overworked and important undertakings. There simply may not be the time available to ensure abundant weaning, playtime and personal interaction, which are crucial for a companion pet bird. This is mostly due to a lack of time, but also one of interest at times. After-sale support should also be available and will be offered by reputable breeders and handfeeders. No matter how many years you may have in bird experience, there is always new information and knowledge being learned by all of us, all the while unselfishly passing on the information being learned.
We will now consider another alternative-the commercial pet shop. Keep in mind, a pet shop may not specialize in birds, including crucial after-sale support. If your bird turns ill, or is acting in a peculiar manner, or questions arise, you will need somewhere to turn, who is familiar with your bird and type, to fully anser these.
Pet shops are in business for one reason-PROFIT. When this is the motivator, I caution you-BUYER BEWARE! Below are listed 10 considerations you must ask to ensure both you and your bird's needs are met:
- Check for proper licensing and operating permits necessary for your geopgraphical location.
- Are their babies handfed or parent-raised
- Take a good, close look, expecially keeping an eye out for cleanliness and disease-free animals
- Is a health guarantee offered
- Are well-health vet checks offered
- Do they offer after-sale support
- Upon request, can they provide references
- Determine if it is a long-term business or fly-by-night
- Are they experts in aviculture
- How involved will you be in the weaning process
The best thing you can offer your new baby is taking the time and effort to continue learning all you can with issues like feeding, health, characteristics, etc., can be learned by one-on-one sessions with other bird owners, published literature, books and magazines, as well as joining your local avicultural organization. We learn nothing by ourselves-it must be passed along!
Having a companion pet bird owner will be one of the most enjoyable, satisfying relationships you will ever find yourself in. Happy birding!
Monday, January 26, 2009
Talking Birds
Talking Birds
Tips and tricks of turning your talking bird into a conversationalist. One of the joys of owning a cockatiel or macaw is the satisfaction of teaching it how to talk.
The good news is that you just bought a parrot and are looking forward to hours of happy chatter. The bad news is that it's now 6 months later and your feather friend (1) has yet to utter a single peep, or (2) uses language that would make a sailor blush. It's a disappointment or embarrassment to many new owners, yet one that could be avoided with recognition of a simple fact: It's not the bird's fault.
NEW BIRD PRE-OWNED
"What you hear is what you get" should be the watchword of bird purchases, especially if your heart is really set on one of the talking varieties such as budgies, cockatiels, or macaws. Suffice it to say, though, do you and your family really have the time and the patience to train a young bird from scratch to recite companionable phrases just to entertain you? Likewise, are you prepared for the possibility that, in spite of all the coaxing and fond attention, your little friend just may not have the wits or inclination to speak up?
The flip side, obviously, is to consider adopting an older bird that has already demonstrated that it's capable of communication. "Previously owned" birds, however, come with their own set of challenges. While relocation, health, and financial considerations have forced many a pet owner's decision to sell, just as many animals birds included end up in the classifieds or pet shops because of problem behavior. If your bird of choice is certifiably a talker, you might want to inquire if profanity is part of its "colorful" vocabulary before you take it home and host a luncheon for your minister.
YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE SAYING
Just because Baretta's comical cockatiel, Fred, could answer a telephone didn't mean he could also answer questions and take a message. Although some species of birds are capable of mastering a large vocabulary, you mustn't confuse mimicry with actual conversation; they are simply repeating (or "parroting") what they've learned by rote without attaching any intellectual value to it. You can certainly, of course, invest the time in getting your pet to associate specific sounds or phrases with other actions (i.e., feeding, playing, etc.) but, again, any higher expectation would be akin to buying a Ferbie in the hope it will one day start spouting original opinions.
CONTINUITY IS THE KEY
It is important to always use the same words or phrases when trying to teach a bird to speak. To use the analogy of puppy-training, the words, "Don't jump" and "Stay down" may mean exactly the same thing to us, but the ears for whom the message is intended will hear two completely different things and, accordingly, take twice as long to discern what's being asked. It's also a wise idea not to incorporate whistling in the early stages of your bird's education. Oftentimes the bird will discover on its own that whistling is much easier to do than repeat silly words all day and will abandon the latter altogether. Whatever you attempt to teach your little friend, of course, should be something you won't mind listening to over and over and over and well, you get the picture.
TWO OF A KIND
If your bird is going to spend a lot of its waking hours home alone, there may be a temptation to buy it a cage-mate. While it may indeed appreciate one of its own kind with whom to pass the lonely hours, you could unwittingly sabotage your previous and current efforts to teach it to talk. "Why should I learn to speak a foreign language," the bird may rationalize, "when I can yak away in my native tongue to this new kid?" Better that your bird have already mastered the rudiments of repetition before you introduce a companion who might literally be a bird-brain and bad influence.
Some owners have resolved the loneliness issue by leaving a radio or television playing near the cage. You can, thus, imagine their startlement when Perry the Parrot lethally declares one evening, "We have to kill Stefano" or breaks into a stream of raunchy rapper lyrics. As a responsible pet parent, you need to closely monitor your child's listening habits, especially if he or she possesses the power to repeat everything back to you. (Dogs, cats, hamsters, and fish, of course, can continue to listen to whatever makes them happy.)
In the event your winged pal has picked up some unsavory dialogue, the best thing you can do is simply ignore it and continue to reinforce the more positive aspects of its vocal contributions to the household. Just like human children who pick up a swear word at school and then test it out at home, the intent is to get attention; if the behavior isn't acknowledged, it will eventually cease.
FINAL NOTE
Maybe your bird will never utter a single intelligible syllable in its entire life. That doesn't mean it should be punished, yelled at, or regarded as hopelessly stupid. In making the decision to bring a living creature into your life that will give you unconditional love, you owe it the same in return. Whether or not it rewards you with song, interminable chatter, or simply silence, it is nonetheless a pet deserving of all the affection and care you can give. If you can put the talent for talking in the category of "an added extra," you will never be disappointed in your choice.
Tips and tricks of turning your talking bird into a conversationalist. One of the joys of owning a cockatiel or macaw is the satisfaction of teaching it how to talk.
The good news is that you just bought a parrot and are looking forward to hours of happy chatter. The bad news is that it's now 6 months later and your feather friend (1) has yet to utter a single peep, or (2) uses language that would make a sailor blush. It's a disappointment or embarrassment to many new owners, yet one that could be avoided with recognition of a simple fact: It's not the bird's fault.
NEW BIRD PRE-OWNED
"What you hear is what you get" should be the watchword of bird purchases, especially if your heart is really set on one of the talking varieties such as budgies, cockatiels, or macaws. Suffice it to say, though, do you and your family really have the time and the patience to train a young bird from scratch to recite companionable phrases just to entertain you? Likewise, are you prepared for the possibility that, in spite of all the coaxing and fond attention, your little friend just may not have the wits or inclination to speak up?
The flip side, obviously, is to consider adopting an older bird that has already demonstrated that it's capable of communication. "Previously owned" birds, however, come with their own set of challenges. While relocation, health, and financial considerations have forced many a pet owner's decision to sell, just as many animals birds included end up in the classifieds or pet shops because of problem behavior. If your bird of choice is certifiably a talker, you might want to inquire if profanity is part of its "colorful" vocabulary before you take it home and host a luncheon for your minister.
YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE SAYING
Just because Baretta's comical cockatiel, Fred, could answer a telephone didn't mean he could also answer questions and take a message. Although some species of birds are capable of mastering a large vocabulary, you mustn't confuse mimicry with actual conversation; they are simply repeating (or "parroting") what they've learned by rote without attaching any intellectual value to it. You can certainly, of course, invest the time in getting your pet to associate specific sounds or phrases with other actions (i.e., feeding, playing, etc.) but, again, any higher expectation would be akin to buying a Ferbie in the hope it will one day start spouting original opinions.
CONTINUITY IS THE KEY
It is important to always use the same words or phrases when trying to teach a bird to speak. To use the analogy of puppy-training, the words, "Don't jump" and "Stay down" may mean exactly the same thing to us, but the ears for whom the message is intended will hear two completely different things and, accordingly, take twice as long to discern what's being asked. It's also a wise idea not to incorporate whistling in the early stages of your bird's education. Oftentimes the bird will discover on its own that whistling is much easier to do than repeat silly words all day and will abandon the latter altogether. Whatever you attempt to teach your little friend, of course, should be something you won't mind listening to over and over and over and well, you get the picture.
TWO OF A KIND
If your bird is going to spend a lot of its waking hours home alone, there may be a temptation to buy it a cage-mate. While it may indeed appreciate one of its own kind with whom to pass the lonely hours, you could unwittingly sabotage your previous and current efforts to teach it to talk. "Why should I learn to speak a foreign language," the bird may rationalize, "when I can yak away in my native tongue to this new kid?" Better that your bird have already mastered the rudiments of repetition before you introduce a companion who might literally be a bird-brain and bad influence.
Some owners have resolved the loneliness issue by leaving a radio or television playing near the cage. You can, thus, imagine their startlement when Perry the Parrot lethally declares one evening, "We have to kill Stefano" or breaks into a stream of raunchy rapper lyrics. As a responsible pet parent, you need to closely monitor your child's listening habits, especially if he or she possesses the power to repeat everything back to you. (Dogs, cats, hamsters, and fish, of course, can continue to listen to whatever makes them happy.)
In the event your winged pal has picked up some unsavory dialogue, the best thing you can do is simply ignore it and continue to reinforce the more positive aspects of its vocal contributions to the household. Just like human children who pick up a swear word at school and then test it out at home, the intent is to get attention; if the behavior isn't acknowledged, it will eventually cease.
FINAL NOTE
Maybe your bird will never utter a single intelligible syllable in its entire life. That doesn't mean it should be punished, yelled at, or regarded as hopelessly stupid. In making the decision to bring a living creature into your life that will give you unconditional love, you owe it the same in return. Whether or not it rewards you with song, interminable chatter, or simply silence, it is nonetheless a pet deserving of all the affection and care you can give. If you can put the talent for talking in the category of "an added extra," you will never be disappointed in your choice.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
All About Javelina Rodents
All About Javelina Rodents
Learn all about javelinas rodents or peccaries: wild pigs of the desert, that travel in herds and are quite interesting...once you get past their smell.
The Javelina (Dicotyles tajacu) is also known as a collared peccary, tayaussa, or musk hog. It is the only wild relative of the pig family in the United States. Javelinas are members of the Tayassuidae Family. True pigs are members of the Suidae Family.
This wild pig can be found in the brushy deserts, rocky canyons, and wastelands of the Chihuahuan and Sonoran Deserts with their territory extending from southern and central Arizona to New Mexico and south and central Texas, then spreading south into Mexico. They live in areas near water, brush and cactus, especially around the prickly pear plant. Their dens are made of hollows in the ground.
Javelinas tend to stay near permanent sources of water. Unlike coyotes and bobcats who share the same habitat, javelinas are unable to evaporate moisture through panting to prevent overheating. Therefore, during the midday heat, javelinas must rest in the shade and forage for food when it's cooler.
The adult male javelina ranges from 46 to 60 inches in length and is usually 20 to 24 inches in height. The adult male weighs between 40 and 60 pounds. It is colored a grizzled black and gray with a dark dorsal stripe, but it is lighter around the shoulders. The fur is very coarse. The javelina has an inconspicuous tail and a pig-like snout. The javelina has 2 hooves on each foot. There are four toes on the forefeet and three on the hind feet. The javelina's upper tusks are 1.5 inches long and are pointed down rather than curled as with some other feral wild pigs. In adults there is a mane that extends down the crown of the head to the rump, which is most obvious when the javelina is excited.
Breeding occurs during any time of the year. Females usually give birth to two young after a gestation period of 145 days. The young are reddish to yellow-brown in color.
Javelinas usually travel in a band from 6 to 12 although as many as 50 have been seen together. The large groups offers them protection from predators. They are most active during early morning and evening when it is cooler.
Javelinas also have a powerful musk gland on the top of the rump. Their odor is always apparent, especially when they are excited. You may smell a javelina before you see it.
They also make a lot of noise. They grunt and squeal and be quite skittish to humans. They have been known to charge when they or their young are in danger, but under most circumstances, they will run from humans.
Learn all about javelinas rodents or peccaries: wild pigs of the desert, that travel in herds and are quite interesting...once you get past their smell.
The Javelina (Dicotyles tajacu) is also known as a collared peccary, tayaussa, or musk hog. It is the only wild relative of the pig family in the United States. Javelinas are members of the Tayassuidae Family. True pigs are members of the Suidae Family.
This wild pig can be found in the brushy deserts, rocky canyons, and wastelands of the Chihuahuan and Sonoran Deserts with their territory extending from southern and central Arizona to New Mexico and south and central Texas, then spreading south into Mexico. They live in areas near water, brush and cactus, especially around the prickly pear plant. Their dens are made of hollows in the ground.
Javelinas tend to stay near permanent sources of water. Unlike coyotes and bobcats who share the same habitat, javelinas are unable to evaporate moisture through panting to prevent overheating. Therefore, during the midday heat, javelinas must rest in the shade and forage for food when it's cooler.
The adult male javelina ranges from 46 to 60 inches in length and is usually 20 to 24 inches in height. The adult male weighs between 40 and 60 pounds. It is colored a grizzled black and gray with a dark dorsal stripe, but it is lighter around the shoulders. The fur is very coarse. The javelina has an inconspicuous tail and a pig-like snout. The javelina has 2 hooves on each foot. There are four toes on the forefeet and three on the hind feet. The javelina's upper tusks are 1.5 inches long and are pointed down rather than curled as with some other feral wild pigs. In adults there is a mane that extends down the crown of the head to the rump, which is most obvious when the javelina is excited.
Breeding occurs during any time of the year. Females usually give birth to two young after a gestation period of 145 days. The young are reddish to yellow-brown in color.
Javelinas usually travel in a band from 6 to 12 although as many as 50 have been seen together. The large groups offers them protection from predators. They are most active during early morning and evening when it is cooler.
Javelinas also have a powerful musk gland on the top of the rump. Their odor is always apparent, especially when they are excited. You may smell a javelina before you see it.
They also make a lot of noise. They grunt and squeal and be quite skittish to humans. They have been known to charge when they or their young are in danger, but under most circumstances, they will run from humans.
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Examine During Grooming for Guinea Pig
Guinea Pig Health: Examine During Grooming
Is guinea pig health important to you? Guinea pigs tend to hide signs of illness, so the best time to check for potential trouble is grooming time. Here's what to look for.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, with their naturally passive natures and entertaining antics, but they often mask signs of serious illness. In the wild, hiding signs of weakness is a defensive behavior used by those animals who have no other defenses. Appearing sick in the wild is an invitation for early death, so guinea pigs have mastered the art of hiding their illnesses. Responsible owners need to be aware of this, so they can notice subtle signs of potential trouble in their pet guinea pigs. The best time to perform this inspection is during routine grooming. Long-haired guinea pigs require daily grooming for ideal maintenance, but even the short haired varieties need some grooming. Once you have your piggie secured in your lap and have the brush ready, here's what you need to inspect.
1. General appearances:
Does your pig seem genuinely happy to see you, or does he appear lethargic or distracted? Guinea pigs generally greet owners with enthusiasm and squeals. A lethargic pig is either bored or sick. If you feel comfortable eliminating boredom as a possible cause for his lethargy, then you should consider the possibility of illness. Also, consider your pet's weight. Anorexia and other eating disorders are not uncommon in guinea pigs, so assess your pet's general weight every time you prepare to groom him. Consult a veterinarian if you notice a great variance in your pet's weight.
2. Eyes:
While brushing your guinea pig, take a good look at his eyes. They should be shiny and moist, with little or no accumulation of fluid around the lower lid. Any fluid you find should be clear, not cloudy. Excessive discharge of any kind may indicate a serious cold or pneumonia, or an allergic reaction to bedding or household dust.
3. Nostrils:
Also inspect your pet's nasal area for any discharge or dried mucus. Guinea pigs are especially susceptible to colds and pneumonia, so nasal discharges are a good sign of potential illness.
4. Teeth:
Checking a guinea pig's teeth is not easy, but it can be done. You may have to get more forceful with your pet than usual, but separate your guinea pig's lips and take a look at the front teeth. Are they intact? Broken teeth can affect eating, which may lead to anorexia. A guinea pig's teeth never stop growing, so a chew block is essential. Listen for any clicking or grinding sounds, which may indicate overgrowth of the back teeth.
5. Ears:
Check a guinea pig's ears for any excessive wax buildup, which can be gently removed with cotton swabs. Otherwise, a guinea pig's ears are usually trouble-free. If you have more than one pig, check for any injury that may occur through infighting. Males are notoriously territorial, so some scuffles may leave injuries.
6. Abdomen:
Check for signs of urine scalding, which occurs when a sick pig spends too much time lying in urine-soaked bedding. It is the guinea equivalent of diaper rash, and should be treated at the vet's office. Another serious condition that should be apparent at grooming time is known as a 'mega-colon'. Occasionally, older guinea pigs lose tone in their sphincter muscles, causing them to become constipated easily. Untreated, this condition can be life-threatening. If you notice a swelling around the anal opening or excessive feces that are large and unformed, your pig may have developed this condition. Consult a vet as soon as possible.
7. Nails:
Guinea pigs' nails grow extremely fast, and can get unmanageable sooner than you think. If you are comfortable with the procedure, go ahead and clip your pig's toenails regularly. If you are not comfortable with the idea, find a reputable vet who will perform the service. Grooming time is the best time to inspect your pet's toes to determine what action to take.
Is guinea pig health important to you? Guinea pigs tend to hide signs of illness, so the best time to check for potential trouble is grooming time. Here's what to look for.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, with their naturally passive natures and entertaining antics, but they often mask signs of serious illness. In the wild, hiding signs of weakness is a defensive behavior used by those animals who have no other defenses. Appearing sick in the wild is an invitation for early death, so guinea pigs have mastered the art of hiding their illnesses. Responsible owners need to be aware of this, so they can notice subtle signs of potential trouble in their pet guinea pigs. The best time to perform this inspection is during routine grooming. Long-haired guinea pigs require daily grooming for ideal maintenance, but even the short haired varieties need some grooming. Once you have your piggie secured in your lap and have the brush ready, here's what you need to inspect.
1. General appearances:
Does your pig seem genuinely happy to see you, or does he appear lethargic or distracted? Guinea pigs generally greet owners with enthusiasm and squeals. A lethargic pig is either bored or sick. If you feel comfortable eliminating boredom as a possible cause for his lethargy, then you should consider the possibility of illness. Also, consider your pet's weight. Anorexia and other eating disorders are not uncommon in guinea pigs, so assess your pet's general weight every time you prepare to groom him. Consult a veterinarian if you notice a great variance in your pet's weight.
2. Eyes:
While brushing your guinea pig, take a good look at his eyes. They should be shiny and moist, with little or no accumulation of fluid around the lower lid. Any fluid you find should be clear, not cloudy. Excessive discharge of any kind may indicate a serious cold or pneumonia, or an allergic reaction to bedding or household dust.
3. Nostrils:
Also inspect your pet's nasal area for any discharge or dried mucus. Guinea pigs are especially susceptible to colds and pneumonia, so nasal discharges are a good sign of potential illness.
4. Teeth:
Checking a guinea pig's teeth is not easy, but it can be done. You may have to get more forceful with your pet than usual, but separate your guinea pig's lips and take a look at the front teeth. Are they intact? Broken teeth can affect eating, which may lead to anorexia. A guinea pig's teeth never stop growing, so a chew block is essential. Listen for any clicking or grinding sounds, which may indicate overgrowth of the back teeth.
5. Ears:
Check a guinea pig's ears for any excessive wax buildup, which can be gently removed with cotton swabs. Otherwise, a guinea pig's ears are usually trouble-free. If you have more than one pig, check for any injury that may occur through infighting. Males are notoriously territorial, so some scuffles may leave injuries.
6. Abdomen:
Check for signs of urine scalding, which occurs when a sick pig spends too much time lying in urine-soaked bedding. It is the guinea equivalent of diaper rash, and should be treated at the vet's office. Another serious condition that should be apparent at grooming time is known as a 'mega-colon'. Occasionally, older guinea pigs lose tone in their sphincter muscles, causing them to become constipated easily. Untreated, this condition can be life-threatening. If you notice a swelling around the anal opening or excessive feces that are large and unformed, your pig may have developed this condition. Consult a vet as soon as possible.
7. Nails:
Guinea pigs' nails grow extremely fast, and can get unmanageable sooner than you think. If you are comfortable with the procedure, go ahead and clip your pig's toenails regularly. If you are not comfortable with the idea, find a reputable vet who will perform the service. Grooming time is the best time to inspect your pet's toes to determine what action to take.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Guinea Pig Sounds
Guinea Pig Sounds
Guinea pigs make many different sounds, from the contented grunts that gave them their name to high pitched squeaks that can indicate illness or fear.
Guinea pigs make wonderful house pets because of their docile nature and relative ability to handle rough treatment by children. They are much less fragile than hamsters or gerbils, and more independent than most cats and dogs. Guinea pigs are vegetarians by nature, and generally only bite when severely provoked or seriously ill. Owning a guinea pig is very close to owning a rabbit or a ferret in terms of overall maintenance level. Cages must be kept clean, and food/water levels must be checked daily. Guinea pigs are social animals, and respond well to daily exercise and human contact. One endearing quality of guinea pigs would have to be the noises they make throughout the day. Owners should get to know these grunts, squeaks and chirps by heart, because they may be the first clues to a serious problem with the guinea pig's health or a good gauge for checking their overall mood.
One of the most common noises emitted by a guinea pig is the grunt. This noise is not exactly the same as a real pig's guttural grunting, but it is just as constant. Guinea pigs spend most of their time making a series of little squeaks that increase in volume and pitch whenever a human makes contact with them. At first, these sounds may appear troubling to the new owner, because they seem so insistent and intense. This is not the case, however. Guinea pigs maintain these squeaks during times of contentment and excitement. Don't worry if they seem to become more strained as you handle the pig. As long as the grunts are continuous and are stimulated by gentle handling, everything is fine. Think of it as a guinea pig's giggle. This is the standard noise of any guinea pig breed.
Guinea pigs also have their own brand of human owner conditioning which their 'slaves' usually refer to as the 'WEEEEK' noise. Guinea pigs are intelligent creatures, and will soon learn the significance of many household sounds. If you feed your guinea pig fresh parsley or carrots from the refrigerator, they will soon associate this sound with a treat. The sound of a bag rustling may remind them of a fresh bowl of pellet food being prepared, or some timothy hay about to be dropped. Whatever the trigger may be, the owner should expect to hear a very loud, shrill 'WEEEEEK' noise coming from the cage. Studies have shown that this noise is not found in nature, but is reserved for the human whose main responsibility in life should be the care and maintenance of their guinea pig master. All guinea pigs develop this high-pitched squeak eventually, which is generally reserved for the proper occasion. If your pig suddenly lets out such a squeak, you probably triggered it with a familiar sound. Contrary to guinea pig belief, however, you CAN choose to ignore it. Good luck.
Perhaps the ultimate in happy guinea pig noises is the purr of contentment. To hear it for the first time is pure owner bliss. While gently stroking your pet, listen and feel for a very quiet shuddering, followed by a low-pitched purr. This is the sound of a perfectly content pig who is totally at ease with his or her surroundings. Not a very common noise, but one you will want to hear at least once a day.
Guinea pigs are defenseless in nature, except for the ability to run fast and dodge. They rarely let out any noises to indicate illness or fear in the wild, because enemies will target the weakest animals in a pack. But within the relatively safe confines of the human world, guineas will make some noises that indicate real pain or fear. If you notice a sudden outburst of squeaking that is not triggered by common sounds, then you may have an injured pig to deal with. Check your pet's feet for cuts or splinters, and look for signs of broken teeth. Also, ask any child that may have handled the pig recently if they had any problems- a sudden fall or an awkward position can cause painful dislocations. Guinea pigs may also let out distressed squeaks in the presence of strangers or aggressive pets like cats or large dogs. Such squeaks may be followed by defensive bites, so use caution when attempting to examine a squeaking guinea pig. Punishing a guinea pig for biting is never a good idea- they bite so rarely that there was probably a good reason behind it.
Overall, a guinea pig's noises should suggest a happy, contented animal who is more than willing to allow you the privilege of feeding it daily. Some may find the noises distracting and opt for a quieter pet, but guinea enthusiasts generally enjoy the little squeaks and WEEEEEKS of their friends with fur on their faces.
Guinea pigs make many different sounds, from the contented grunts that gave them their name to high pitched squeaks that can indicate illness or fear.
Guinea pigs make wonderful house pets because of their docile nature and relative ability to handle rough treatment by children. They are much less fragile than hamsters or gerbils, and more independent than most cats and dogs. Guinea pigs are vegetarians by nature, and generally only bite when severely provoked or seriously ill. Owning a guinea pig is very close to owning a rabbit or a ferret in terms of overall maintenance level. Cages must be kept clean, and food/water levels must be checked daily. Guinea pigs are social animals, and respond well to daily exercise and human contact. One endearing quality of guinea pigs would have to be the noises they make throughout the day. Owners should get to know these grunts, squeaks and chirps by heart, because they may be the first clues to a serious problem with the guinea pig's health or a good gauge for checking their overall mood.
One of the most common noises emitted by a guinea pig is the grunt. This noise is not exactly the same as a real pig's guttural grunting, but it is just as constant. Guinea pigs spend most of their time making a series of little squeaks that increase in volume and pitch whenever a human makes contact with them. At first, these sounds may appear troubling to the new owner, because they seem so insistent and intense. This is not the case, however. Guinea pigs maintain these squeaks during times of contentment and excitement. Don't worry if they seem to become more strained as you handle the pig. As long as the grunts are continuous and are stimulated by gentle handling, everything is fine. Think of it as a guinea pig's giggle. This is the standard noise of any guinea pig breed.
Guinea pigs also have their own brand of human owner conditioning which their 'slaves' usually refer to as the 'WEEEEK' noise. Guinea pigs are intelligent creatures, and will soon learn the significance of many household sounds. If you feed your guinea pig fresh parsley or carrots from the refrigerator, they will soon associate this sound with a treat. The sound of a bag rustling may remind them of a fresh bowl of pellet food being prepared, or some timothy hay about to be dropped. Whatever the trigger may be, the owner should expect to hear a very loud, shrill 'WEEEEEK' noise coming from the cage. Studies have shown that this noise is not found in nature, but is reserved for the human whose main responsibility in life should be the care and maintenance of their guinea pig master. All guinea pigs develop this high-pitched squeak eventually, which is generally reserved for the proper occasion. If your pig suddenly lets out such a squeak, you probably triggered it with a familiar sound. Contrary to guinea pig belief, however, you CAN choose to ignore it. Good luck.
Perhaps the ultimate in happy guinea pig noises is the purr of contentment. To hear it for the first time is pure owner bliss. While gently stroking your pet, listen and feel for a very quiet shuddering, followed by a low-pitched purr. This is the sound of a perfectly content pig who is totally at ease with his or her surroundings. Not a very common noise, but one you will want to hear at least once a day.
Guinea pigs are defenseless in nature, except for the ability to run fast and dodge. They rarely let out any noises to indicate illness or fear in the wild, because enemies will target the weakest animals in a pack. But within the relatively safe confines of the human world, guineas will make some noises that indicate real pain or fear. If you notice a sudden outburst of squeaking that is not triggered by common sounds, then you may have an injured pig to deal with. Check your pet's feet for cuts or splinters, and look for signs of broken teeth. Also, ask any child that may have handled the pig recently if they had any problems- a sudden fall or an awkward position can cause painful dislocations. Guinea pigs may also let out distressed squeaks in the presence of strangers or aggressive pets like cats or large dogs. Such squeaks may be followed by defensive bites, so use caution when attempting to examine a squeaking guinea pig. Punishing a guinea pig for biting is never a good idea- they bite so rarely that there was probably a good reason behind it.
Overall, a guinea pig's noises should suggest a happy, contented animal who is more than willing to allow you the privilege of feeding it daily. Some may find the noises distracting and opt for a quieter pet, but guinea enthusiasts generally enjoy the little squeaks and WEEEEEKS of their friends with fur on their faces.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Guinea Pig Names
Guinea Pig Names
Guinea pigs are very sociable animals who will bond with their owners quickly. Selecting the proper name for your guinea pig is an important step. Here are some suggestions on how to choose a good name.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets for children, because they have the hardiness of a rabbit or cat combined with the appealing curiosity of a hamster or mouse. They are odorless, non-aggressive and very sociable- all good qualities when subjected to the scrutiny of young hands. Adults who cannot have a dog or a cat in their homes often find that a guinea pig offers many of the same qualities, with the added advantage of being a caged animal that can be left alone for extended periods of time if necessary. They are indeed very loving animals, and love to entertain their owners with their antics.
But what do you name that little bundle of fur that comes home from the pet store or breeder? Naming a pet is a very good step for a child, and parents should encourage a brainstorming session or two to find the perfect name(s). Guinea pigs do learn the sound of their names when they get accustomed to their new environment, so be sure to
pick a good one.
1. Names based on appearance.
Take a good look at your pet. Do you notice anything unusual about his appearance, or one standout feature that everyone talks about? You could call him or her Cinnamon, Blackie, Snow, Spot, Checkers, Kabuki, Bandit, Freckles, Patches, etc... Anything that stands out about their fur or general appearance can make a good and memorable name.
2. Names based on activities.
Watch your pet as he or she moves around and interacts with you. You could come up with names like Scooter, Jumping Jack Flash, Skittles, Slider, Scramble, Beggar, Dancer, Tumbles, Hoppy, Popcorn, etc... Young guinea pigs are especially prone to surprising hops and skips, commonly called 'popcorning'. They will grow out of it eventually, but not before getting a name from the experience.
3. Famous Pig names.
Since you have a genuine 'pig' on your hands, you might go with a famous pig name. Porky, Arnold Ziffle, Petunia, Hogglesworth, Wilbur, Piggly Wiggly, etc. Kids love to equate animal names with other animals they learn about in school or on television.
4. Historical names.
If you have a pair of guinea pigs, you may want to choose names of famous lovers throughout history: Romeo and Juliet, Bonnie and Clyde, Mickey and Minny, Porky and Petunia, Adam and Eve, Samson and Delilah, Sabrina and Harvey, etc... Children may have their own favorite couples from their generation, so this may be a chance for them to make a decision on their own.
5. Traditional cat names.
Guinea pigs have a few traits in common with cats, so if you are absolutely stuck consider some traditional cat names like Snowball, Belle, Miss Piggy (instead of Kitty), Precious, Trixie, Soot, Boss, etc... If you lost a family pet, you might consider lending its name or legacy to the new pet as a good transition- use a variant like Smokey, Jr. or Scrabble II to honor the memory of a lost pet.
Guinea pigs are very sociable animals who will bond with their owners quickly. Selecting the proper name for your guinea pig is an important step. Here are some suggestions on how to choose a good name.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets for children, because they have the hardiness of a rabbit or cat combined with the appealing curiosity of a hamster or mouse. They are odorless, non-aggressive and very sociable- all good qualities when subjected to the scrutiny of young hands. Adults who cannot have a dog or a cat in their homes often find that a guinea pig offers many of the same qualities, with the added advantage of being a caged animal that can be left alone for extended periods of time if necessary. They are indeed very loving animals, and love to entertain their owners with their antics.
But what do you name that little bundle of fur that comes home from the pet store or breeder? Naming a pet is a very good step for a child, and parents should encourage a brainstorming session or two to find the perfect name(s). Guinea pigs do learn the sound of their names when they get accustomed to their new environment, so be sure to
pick a good one.
1. Names based on appearance.
Take a good look at your pet. Do you notice anything unusual about his appearance, or one standout feature that everyone talks about? You could call him or her Cinnamon, Blackie, Snow, Spot, Checkers, Kabuki, Bandit, Freckles, Patches, etc... Anything that stands out about their fur or general appearance can make a good and memorable name.
2. Names based on activities.
Watch your pet as he or she moves around and interacts with you. You could come up with names like Scooter, Jumping Jack Flash, Skittles, Slider, Scramble, Beggar, Dancer, Tumbles, Hoppy, Popcorn, etc... Young guinea pigs are especially prone to surprising hops and skips, commonly called 'popcorning'. They will grow out of it eventually, but not before getting a name from the experience.
3. Famous Pig names.
Since you have a genuine 'pig' on your hands, you might go with a famous pig name. Porky, Arnold Ziffle, Petunia, Hogglesworth, Wilbur, Piggly Wiggly, etc. Kids love to equate animal names with other animals they learn about in school or on television.
4. Historical names.
If you have a pair of guinea pigs, you may want to choose names of famous lovers throughout history: Romeo and Juliet, Bonnie and Clyde, Mickey and Minny, Porky and Petunia, Adam and Eve, Samson and Delilah, Sabrina and Harvey, etc... Children may have their own favorite couples from their generation, so this may be a chance for them to make a decision on their own.
5. Traditional cat names.
Guinea pigs have a few traits in common with cats, so if you are absolutely stuck consider some traditional cat names like Snowball, Belle, Miss Piggy (instead of Kitty), Precious, Trixie, Soot, Boss, etc... If you lost a family pet, you might consider lending its name or legacy to the new pet as a good transition- use a variant like Smokey, Jr. or Scrabble II to honor the memory of a lost pet.
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
The Best Way To Handle Your Guinea Pig
What'S The Best Way To Handle Your Guinea Pig?
Should you handle guinea pigs? How do you do it? How often?
It is easy to form a close rapport with your pet guinea pig. An owner's relation to his or her pet is bonded by the close contact that they share together. Not all guinea pigs have the same personalities. You will notice that how you treat your guinea pig really affects how it responds to you.
What's the best way to handle a guinea pig?
To pick up your guinea pig you should place one hand under its stomach and once you lift it, place your other hand under its hind legs. Guinea pigs are shy and easily scared creatures so you should always handle them with great care. When holding your guinea always keep it comfortably supported. You can let your guinea pig lean against your chest looking up at you, or you can cradle it in your arms. If your guinea pig struggles then ease it back to the ground, you should never make it feel uncomfortable. Spend time with your guinea pig on the floor as well. It will get to know you this way, and will be more responsive to your presence.
How does handling a guinea pig affect it?
If a guinea pig struggles as you hold it, then you may be handling it too much. Its important to hold and love your guinea pig as much as possible, but if it doesn't want to be handled it may be scared or uncomfortable. Respect your pet. If you should treat your guinea pig with the care it desires then it will bond with you better. You may want to handle your guinea pig gradually at first and then more as it appears more comfortable. As you keep close contact with your pet, you are forming a deep bond that shows your love for it.
Should you handle guinea pigs? How do you do it? How often?
It is easy to form a close rapport with your pet guinea pig. An owner's relation to his or her pet is bonded by the close contact that they share together. Not all guinea pigs have the same personalities. You will notice that how you treat your guinea pig really affects how it responds to you.
What's the best way to handle a guinea pig?
To pick up your guinea pig you should place one hand under its stomach and once you lift it, place your other hand under its hind legs. Guinea pigs are shy and easily scared creatures so you should always handle them with great care. When holding your guinea always keep it comfortably supported. You can let your guinea pig lean against your chest looking up at you, or you can cradle it in your arms. If your guinea pig struggles then ease it back to the ground, you should never make it feel uncomfortable. Spend time with your guinea pig on the floor as well. It will get to know you this way, and will be more responsive to your presence.
How does handling a guinea pig affect it?
If a guinea pig struggles as you hold it, then you may be handling it too much. Its important to hold and love your guinea pig as much as possible, but if it doesn't want to be handled it may be scared or uncomfortable. Respect your pet. If you should treat your guinea pig with the care it desires then it will bond with you better. You may want to handle your guinea pig gradually at first and then more as it appears more comfortable. As you keep close contact with your pet, you are forming a deep bond that shows your love for it.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
How To Care For Guinea Pigs
How To Care For Guinea Pigs
How to care for guinea pigs: Aalso known as cavies, guinea pigs are fun but need proper care and attention for a happy and long life.
Guinea Pigs, also known as cavies, make wonderful pets. They are inexpensive and lots of fun. But they are also prone to illness if not properly cared for.
Feeding your Guinea Pig
Guinea Pigs love to chew, they will eat almost anything. So it is important to watch what is fed to them. Just because they eat something it isn't necessarily good for them.
Guinea Pigs are vegetarians. In the main they eat grains, grass, vegetables, peels and some herbs and fruit. The grains can be bought from your local supermarket, but be sure to buy the brand that has added Vitamin C. Guinea pigs are like humans in that they do not produce their own Vitamin C and must have a steady supply to remain healthy.
When feeding your Guinea Pig grasses and flowers from your garden be sure that they are not harmful, Guinea Pigs are susceptible to pesticides and herbicides. Also, when adding something new to their diet do it in small amounts for a few days and watch for any signs of illness. What is good for one Guinea Pig may cause problems for another.
Always make sure they have fresh clean water at all times. Guinea Pigs being Guinea Pigs, they tend to mess thier water supply.
Don't be alarmed if you see your Guinea Pig eating its own droppings, this is normal.
Housing your Guinea Pig
The first thing to decide in housing your Guinea Pigs is whether it will an indoor or outdoor pet. If it is to be kept outside, because Guinea Pigs in their natural state are prey, it is important to have an enclosed area for the Guinea Pig to run away to.
Indoor Guinea Pigs should have at least 2 square feet for each animal. They should also have a place to run away to.
The enclosed area should have fresh bedding, such as straw or newspaper strips, to help keep them warm. Their cages need to be cleaned every 1-3 days, particularly indoor ones.
If you allow your Guinea Pig to roam freely about the house it is essential that the animal does not have access to electrical wires as they find these irresistible and chew on them, sometimes through to the deadly wire.
Guinea Pigs also like to play so it is a good idea to put some objects in their cage that they can run over, under and through.
Grooming your Guinea Pig
Depending on the type of housing, Guinea Pigs should be bathed and brushed every 1-2 weeks. They should also have their nails clipped periodically.
It is also important for Guinea Pigs to have access to a piece of untreated wood. They will chew on this wood which will help keep their teeth short. Guinea Pigs' teeth grow continuously all their lives. If they do not have something hard to chew on their teeth will become too long and grow out of shape, thus making it hard for them to eat.
Petting your Guinea Pig
Guinea Pigs love to be petted, particularly if you only have one. Guinea Pigs are gregarious animals, and as such need companionship. You should nurse your Guinea Pig for at least 15 minutes each day, more if it is alone, and particularly if kept outside.
Most importantly, have fun with your Guinea Pig!
How to care for guinea pigs: Aalso known as cavies, guinea pigs are fun but need proper care and attention for a happy and long life.
Guinea Pigs, also known as cavies, make wonderful pets. They are inexpensive and lots of fun. But they are also prone to illness if not properly cared for.
Feeding your Guinea Pig
Guinea Pigs love to chew, they will eat almost anything. So it is important to watch what is fed to them. Just because they eat something it isn't necessarily good for them.
Guinea Pigs are vegetarians. In the main they eat grains, grass, vegetables, peels and some herbs and fruit. The grains can be bought from your local supermarket, but be sure to buy the brand that has added Vitamin C. Guinea pigs are like humans in that they do not produce their own Vitamin C and must have a steady supply to remain healthy.
When feeding your Guinea Pig grasses and flowers from your garden be sure that they are not harmful, Guinea Pigs are susceptible to pesticides and herbicides. Also, when adding something new to their diet do it in small amounts for a few days and watch for any signs of illness. What is good for one Guinea Pig may cause problems for another.
Always make sure they have fresh clean water at all times. Guinea Pigs being Guinea Pigs, they tend to mess thier water supply.
Don't be alarmed if you see your Guinea Pig eating its own droppings, this is normal.
Housing your Guinea Pig
The first thing to decide in housing your Guinea Pigs is whether it will an indoor or outdoor pet. If it is to be kept outside, because Guinea Pigs in their natural state are prey, it is important to have an enclosed area for the Guinea Pig to run away to.
Indoor Guinea Pigs should have at least 2 square feet for each animal. They should also have a place to run away to.
The enclosed area should have fresh bedding, such as straw or newspaper strips, to help keep them warm. Their cages need to be cleaned every 1-3 days, particularly indoor ones.
If you allow your Guinea Pig to roam freely about the house it is essential that the animal does not have access to electrical wires as they find these irresistible and chew on them, sometimes through to the deadly wire.
Guinea Pigs also like to play so it is a good idea to put some objects in their cage that they can run over, under and through.
Grooming your Guinea Pig
Depending on the type of housing, Guinea Pigs should be bathed and brushed every 1-2 weeks. They should also have their nails clipped periodically.
It is also important for Guinea Pigs to have access to a piece of untreated wood. They will chew on this wood which will help keep their teeth short. Guinea Pigs' teeth grow continuously all their lives. If they do not have something hard to chew on their teeth will become too long and grow out of shape, thus making it hard for them to eat.
Petting your Guinea Pig
Guinea Pigs love to be petted, particularly if you only have one. Guinea Pigs are gregarious animals, and as such need companionship. You should nurse your Guinea Pig for at least 15 minutes each day, more if it is alone, and particularly if kept outside.
Most importantly, have fun with your Guinea Pig!
Monday, January 19, 2009
Caring For Your Guinea Pig
Caring For Your Guinea Pig
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, and caring for your guinea pig properly can give your pet a long and heathy life.
Guinea pigs are very loving, sociable pets and require a lot of attention. If you are unable to give your guinea pig the social attention it needs, consider getting another one as a companion for your pet. If you decide to get more than one guinea pig, either get two females or a male and a female. Two males may not get along, and if you get a male and a female you may want to consider getting one of them neutered to prevent unwanted litters. Taking good care of your guinea pig will help it live a long and healthy life.
Make sure the cage you choose for your guinea pig has plenty of ventilation. Many people use an aquarium and they don't provide enough ventilation. The cage should be large enough for the guinea pig to comfortably move around in, and it needs to have a solid bottom. Wire bottoms are not good for the guinea pig's feet. Guinea pigs are timid creatures and like something to hide in. A paper lunch bag or small cardboard box is a great hiding place for your guinea pig. They can easily be thrown away and replaced when soiled.
Small animal bedding and litter is available to line your guinea pig's cage. Lining the bottom with newspaper first will absorb any liquid and make cage cleaning easier. You should remove and replace the soiled bedding once a week, and clean the cage with hot, soapy water.
Water bowls are not practical for a guinea pig. Guinea pigs need to have a water bottle with a drinking tube. Wash the bottle daily using a bottle brush and hot, soapy water. This will ensure that the water is clean and healthy to drink. Your guinea pig's food bowl should be made of heavy plastic or ceramic to prevent tipping. The food should be changed daily and the dish cleaned, since guinea pigs often sit and stand in their food dish.
Your guinea pig's diet should consist of a food blend made especially for guinea pigs, fresh vegetables, and hay. Lettuce, carrots, celery, pea pods, broccoli, and cauliflower are high in vitamin C and are good for your guinea pig. You can also feed your guinea pig dandelion greens, clover, and grass from your yard. Make certain that they have been washed and have never been sprayed with pesticides. Guinea pigs require vitamin C supplements besides the vitamin C in the vegetables and fruits you provide. These can be in the form of drops mixed in with the guinea pig's water. For added minerals, a salt and mineral block should be attached to your guinea pig's cage with a metal clip. Don't use strings or twine that your guinea pig can become tangled in.
Guinea pigs should be allowed to exercise out of their cage each day. A child's small swimming pool makes a great play area. The sides are just the right height, and it can be easily cleaned. The guinea pig cage can be set in the plastic swimming pool so your guinea pig can get food and water when it wants some.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, and caring for your guinea pig properly can give your pet a long and heathy life.
Guinea pigs are very loving, sociable pets and require a lot of attention. If you are unable to give your guinea pig the social attention it needs, consider getting another one as a companion for your pet. If you decide to get more than one guinea pig, either get two females or a male and a female. Two males may not get along, and if you get a male and a female you may want to consider getting one of them neutered to prevent unwanted litters. Taking good care of your guinea pig will help it live a long and healthy life.
Make sure the cage you choose for your guinea pig has plenty of ventilation. Many people use an aquarium and they don't provide enough ventilation. The cage should be large enough for the guinea pig to comfortably move around in, and it needs to have a solid bottom. Wire bottoms are not good for the guinea pig's feet. Guinea pigs are timid creatures and like something to hide in. A paper lunch bag or small cardboard box is a great hiding place for your guinea pig. They can easily be thrown away and replaced when soiled.
Small animal bedding and litter is available to line your guinea pig's cage. Lining the bottom with newspaper first will absorb any liquid and make cage cleaning easier. You should remove and replace the soiled bedding once a week, and clean the cage with hot, soapy water.
Water bowls are not practical for a guinea pig. Guinea pigs need to have a water bottle with a drinking tube. Wash the bottle daily using a bottle brush and hot, soapy water. This will ensure that the water is clean and healthy to drink. Your guinea pig's food bowl should be made of heavy plastic or ceramic to prevent tipping. The food should be changed daily and the dish cleaned, since guinea pigs often sit and stand in their food dish.
Your guinea pig's diet should consist of a food blend made especially for guinea pigs, fresh vegetables, and hay. Lettuce, carrots, celery, pea pods, broccoli, and cauliflower are high in vitamin C and are good for your guinea pig. You can also feed your guinea pig dandelion greens, clover, and grass from your yard. Make certain that they have been washed and have never been sprayed with pesticides. Guinea pigs require vitamin C supplements besides the vitamin C in the vegetables and fruits you provide. These can be in the form of drops mixed in with the guinea pig's water. For added minerals, a salt and mineral block should be attached to your guinea pig's cage with a metal clip. Don't use strings or twine that your guinea pig can become tangled in.
Guinea pigs should be allowed to exercise out of their cage each day. A child's small swimming pool makes a great play area. The sides are just the right height, and it can be easily cleaned. The guinea pig cage can be set in the plastic swimming pool so your guinea pig can get food and water when it wants some.
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Choosing The Proper Bedding For A Guinea Pig
Choosing The Proper Bedding For A Guinea Pig
Guinea pigs are very susceptible to respiratory illnesses, which may be aggravated by oily or dusty bedding. Here are the proper bedding materials for guinea pigs. Guinea pigs make ideal family pets, especially for families with small children. With their docile natures and natural sociability, guinea pigs make a great addition to the family unit. They have minimal food and water requirements, and relatively long lifespans for such small animals.
Their droppings are not offensive, and are easily disposable. Many guinea pigs become 'housebroken', learning to save any eliminations for their cages. Since they spend much of the time in their cage homes, choosing the proper bedding is essential. The wrong bedding can not only make a guinea pig uncomfortable, it can also cause potentially fatal illnesses. Here are the most common types of pet bedding used today, along with advice on whether or not to use the material in a guinea pig's cage.
1. Cedar shavings:
Commonly found in pet stores, cedar shavings are certainly one of the least expensive bedding materials available, and are usually used in situations that require a large amount of bedding. But cedar contains a very high concentration of tree oils, which is not good for a guinea pig's overall health. Cedar shavings are NOT recommended for a guinea pig's cage.
2. Pine shavings:
Lighter in color than cedar shavings, pine shavings are usually kept in stock at most pet stores. Some shavings look like flakes, while others may seem more like wood that has been 'ground up' by machinery. Very absorbent and fragrant, pine shavings are not a bad choice for guinea pigs, but not perfect, either. Pine also contains wood oils, which can irritate a guinea pig's system, plus can be a bit dusty. Excessive dust exposure can cause respiratory problems for small animals. Therefore, standard pine shavings are MARGINALLY ACCEPTABLE for guinea pig owners on a budget.
3. Aspen pine shavings:
This is the best compromise available at most pet stores. Aspen pine shavings are nearly oil-free, and the dust is negligible. Most guinea pig reference books will recommend Aspen pine bedding as the best choice for guinea pigs. A little pricier than the standard pine shavings, but worth it in the long run. Make sure you are indeed getting the Aspen variety of pine shavings when shopping. Because of its low oil content and dust-free nature, Aspen pine bedding is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for guinea pigs.
4. Natural hay bedding:
Guinea pigs go crazy for hay as a snack, so the use of it as bedding is bliss for guineas. Not nearly as absorbent as the wood chip beddings, but definitely popular with the one intended to use it. For those who prefer an all-organic approach to pet raising, hay is a good choice. But owners must be aware of any signs of mold or other spoilage. Natural hay may also have pollen or other dusty substances, so that may be a consideration. For the benefits of an organic bedding, natural hay is a GOOD choice, but more owner diligence may be required.
5. Newspaper:
Those pet owners who have observed gerbils or hamsters eagerly tear into newspaper and build nests may be surprised that the guinea pig does not share in this practice. Guinea pigs will chew newspaper, but will usually swallow it. They do not make nests with the lightly chewed remnants. Newspaper also traps urine in the upper layers, which can lead to odor troubles and 'urinary scalding' on the tender bellies of the guinea pigs. As a temporary fix while transporting a sick guinea pig to the vet or as a stopgap until regular bedding can be obtained, newspaper is an acceptable choice. But it should not be used as the permanent bedding. The inks can cause intestinal distress for the pig when ingested, and the potential for pneumonia is increased with wet bedding. For those reasons, newspaper is ACCEPTABLE as a temporary solution, but NOT ACCEPTABLE as a permanent bedding choice.
Some pet owners have suggested using cat litter under the bedding as a absorbent layer. While some may find this practice acceptable, the dust factor cannot be ignored. Baking soda is a more organic choice, and is better tolerated by the guinea pig. Cages should only be cleaned with acetic or citric acid products, such as white vinegar or orange-based cleaners labeled as safe for pet use.
Guinea pigs are very susceptible to respiratory illnesses, which may be aggravated by oily or dusty bedding. Here are the proper bedding materials for guinea pigs. Guinea pigs make ideal family pets, especially for families with small children. With their docile natures and natural sociability, guinea pigs make a great addition to the family unit. They have minimal food and water requirements, and relatively long lifespans for such small animals.
Their droppings are not offensive, and are easily disposable. Many guinea pigs become 'housebroken', learning to save any eliminations for their cages. Since they spend much of the time in their cage homes, choosing the proper bedding is essential. The wrong bedding can not only make a guinea pig uncomfortable, it can also cause potentially fatal illnesses. Here are the most common types of pet bedding used today, along with advice on whether or not to use the material in a guinea pig's cage.
1. Cedar shavings:
Commonly found in pet stores, cedar shavings are certainly one of the least expensive bedding materials available, and are usually used in situations that require a large amount of bedding. But cedar contains a very high concentration of tree oils, which is not good for a guinea pig's overall health. Cedar shavings are NOT recommended for a guinea pig's cage.
2. Pine shavings:
Lighter in color than cedar shavings, pine shavings are usually kept in stock at most pet stores. Some shavings look like flakes, while others may seem more like wood that has been 'ground up' by machinery. Very absorbent and fragrant, pine shavings are not a bad choice for guinea pigs, but not perfect, either. Pine also contains wood oils, which can irritate a guinea pig's system, plus can be a bit dusty. Excessive dust exposure can cause respiratory problems for small animals. Therefore, standard pine shavings are MARGINALLY ACCEPTABLE for guinea pig owners on a budget.
3. Aspen pine shavings:
This is the best compromise available at most pet stores. Aspen pine shavings are nearly oil-free, and the dust is negligible. Most guinea pig reference books will recommend Aspen pine bedding as the best choice for guinea pigs. A little pricier than the standard pine shavings, but worth it in the long run. Make sure you are indeed getting the Aspen variety of pine shavings when shopping. Because of its low oil content and dust-free nature, Aspen pine bedding is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for guinea pigs.
4. Natural hay bedding:
Guinea pigs go crazy for hay as a snack, so the use of it as bedding is bliss for guineas. Not nearly as absorbent as the wood chip beddings, but definitely popular with the one intended to use it. For those who prefer an all-organic approach to pet raising, hay is a good choice. But owners must be aware of any signs of mold or other spoilage. Natural hay may also have pollen or other dusty substances, so that may be a consideration. For the benefits of an organic bedding, natural hay is a GOOD choice, but more owner diligence may be required.
5. Newspaper:
Those pet owners who have observed gerbils or hamsters eagerly tear into newspaper and build nests may be surprised that the guinea pig does not share in this practice. Guinea pigs will chew newspaper, but will usually swallow it. They do not make nests with the lightly chewed remnants. Newspaper also traps urine in the upper layers, which can lead to odor troubles and 'urinary scalding' on the tender bellies of the guinea pigs. As a temporary fix while transporting a sick guinea pig to the vet or as a stopgap until regular bedding can be obtained, newspaper is an acceptable choice. But it should not be used as the permanent bedding. The inks can cause intestinal distress for the pig when ingested, and the potential for pneumonia is increased with wet bedding. For those reasons, newspaper is ACCEPTABLE as a temporary solution, but NOT ACCEPTABLE as a permanent bedding choice.
Some pet owners have suggested using cat litter under the bedding as a absorbent layer. While some may find this practice acceptable, the dust factor cannot be ignored. Baking soda is a more organic choice, and is better tolerated by the guinea pig. Cages should only be cleaned with acetic or citric acid products, such as white vinegar or orange-based cleaners labeled as safe for pet use.
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Choosing A Pet Guinea Pig
Choosing A Pet Guinea Pig
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, but not every breed may be suitable for your particular needs and lifestyle. Here is what to consider when choosing a breed of guinea pig for your family.
Because of their roles as laboratory test animals, guinea pigs have gained an unfair reputation as completely docile, lifeless pets who just sit in a cage and stare blankly at the world. Nothing could be further from the truth. Guinea pigs are very social animals and provide hours of entertainment with their curious antics and interaction with humans. They are less fragile than hamsters and gerbils, which is good for active children, and are very close in temperament to a rabbit, but not as "high maintenance." They rarely bite and are natural vegetarians. But not all guinea pig breeds are suitable for specific households and lifestyles. Before purchasing a guinea pig as a pet, consider the following differences between the three most common types of guinea pigs sold in America today.
One common breed of guinea pig is the short-haired variety. This is probably the first image of a guinea pig that will pop into your mind. The short-haired guinea pig is very sleek and clean in appearance, with a closely cropped coat of soft fur. It does have variations in color, mostly combinations of white, brown, cinnamon, and black. They resemble oversized mice in many respects, or large hamsters. Short-haired guineas do not shed much, which is a consideration if you prefer to keep a very tidy household. They are extremely easy to hold but can be a little slippery. Small children who do not have as much experience holding animals may find the short-haired variety a bit too challenging. I would recommend the short-haired variety for people who like their pets clean and sleek in appearance, with minimal shedding, and have older children who have handled animals in the past.
The second breed of guinea pig you might consider is the rough-coated variety. These crosses between the smooth-haired and long-haired variety are a little easier to hold for little hands because of their rough coats. There is a little more shedding involved, so you may notice a few more hairs around the house if the pet is handled often. The color scheme for a rough-haired guinea is the same as the smooth-hair, but occasionally the colors come out in tufts, which can give a rough-haired guinea a more comical appearance. Their fur's texture contains many whorls and cowlicks, so you'll never be able to completely groom a rough-haired guinea pig to "showroom quality." I recommend the rough-haired guinea pigs to parents with smaller children, and those who aren't as concerned with a pet's aesthetic qualities or shedding tendencies. Rough-hairs are wonderful pets but will always look like they just woke up with bad bed hair.
For the guinea pig enthusiast, long-haired guineas are usually the choice. With hair very similar to cats, the long-hairs are beautiful animals to behold, and very affectionate. Their colors can range from a solid white, black, brown, or cinnamon to a three-colored collage of shades. If you prefer an animal that is breathtakingly attractive, you may want to purchase a long-haired guinea pig. Although they still make wonderful family pets, the long-hairs may be too much work for small children. They require daily and diligent grooming because they are highly susceptible to matting. Trimming is not recommended because a guinea pig does not grow hair quickly. Whatever cuts you make in a guinea's fur are going to be there for a long time. Shedding is also considerable in a long-haired guinea. A long-haired guinea is not the sort of animal that can handle a three-day vacation with just some extra food and water. Other varieties may be left alone for several days if necessary, but long-hairs must be groomed religiously if you want them to maintain their beautiful coats. Therefore, I would recommend a long-haired guinea to the real guinea enthusiast who has the time to groom his/her pet and does not mind a buildup of pet hair around the house. Small children can enjoy a long-haired guinea but should be instructed on proper care and maintenance.
Guinea pigs make wonderful pets, but not every breed may be suitable for your particular needs and lifestyle. Here is what to consider when choosing a breed of guinea pig for your family.
Because of their roles as laboratory test animals, guinea pigs have gained an unfair reputation as completely docile, lifeless pets who just sit in a cage and stare blankly at the world. Nothing could be further from the truth. Guinea pigs are very social animals and provide hours of entertainment with their curious antics and interaction with humans. They are less fragile than hamsters and gerbils, which is good for active children, and are very close in temperament to a rabbit, but not as "high maintenance." They rarely bite and are natural vegetarians. But not all guinea pig breeds are suitable for specific households and lifestyles. Before purchasing a guinea pig as a pet, consider the following differences between the three most common types of guinea pigs sold in America today.
One common breed of guinea pig is the short-haired variety. This is probably the first image of a guinea pig that will pop into your mind. The short-haired guinea pig is very sleek and clean in appearance, with a closely cropped coat of soft fur. It does have variations in color, mostly combinations of white, brown, cinnamon, and black. They resemble oversized mice in many respects, or large hamsters. Short-haired guineas do not shed much, which is a consideration if you prefer to keep a very tidy household. They are extremely easy to hold but can be a little slippery. Small children who do not have as much experience holding animals may find the short-haired variety a bit too challenging. I would recommend the short-haired variety for people who like their pets clean and sleek in appearance, with minimal shedding, and have older children who have handled animals in the past.
The second breed of guinea pig you might consider is the rough-coated variety. These crosses between the smooth-haired and long-haired variety are a little easier to hold for little hands because of their rough coats. There is a little more shedding involved, so you may notice a few more hairs around the house if the pet is handled often. The color scheme for a rough-haired guinea is the same as the smooth-hair, but occasionally the colors come out in tufts, which can give a rough-haired guinea a more comical appearance. Their fur's texture contains many whorls and cowlicks, so you'll never be able to completely groom a rough-haired guinea pig to "showroom quality." I recommend the rough-haired guinea pigs to parents with smaller children, and those who aren't as concerned with a pet's aesthetic qualities or shedding tendencies. Rough-hairs are wonderful pets but will always look like they just woke up with bad bed hair.
For the guinea pig enthusiast, long-haired guineas are usually the choice. With hair very similar to cats, the long-hairs are beautiful animals to behold, and very affectionate. Their colors can range from a solid white, black, brown, or cinnamon to a three-colored collage of shades. If you prefer an animal that is breathtakingly attractive, you may want to purchase a long-haired guinea pig. Although they still make wonderful family pets, the long-hairs may be too much work for small children. They require daily and diligent grooming because they are highly susceptible to matting. Trimming is not recommended because a guinea pig does not grow hair quickly. Whatever cuts you make in a guinea's fur are going to be there for a long time. Shedding is also considerable in a long-haired guinea. A long-haired guinea is not the sort of animal that can handle a three-day vacation with just some extra food and water. Other varieties may be left alone for several days if necessary, but long-hairs must be groomed religiously if you want them to maintain their beautiful coats. Therefore, I would recommend a long-haired guinea to the real guinea enthusiast who has the time to groom his/her pet and does not mind a buildup of pet hair around the house. Small children can enjoy a long-haired guinea but should be instructed on proper care and maintenance.
Friday, January 16, 2009
Guinea Pig Information
Guinea Pig Information
Here's some information on a guinea pig's average life expectancy and the factors involved.
Guinea pigs make excellent housepets because of their docile natures and natural curiosity. Because they are strictly vegetarians, they rarely bite the hand that feeds them, which makes them safe for even the youngest owners. Owning a guinea pig is akin to owning a combination of a cat and a very large hamster at the same time. They are also very close in temperament to a rabbit, but not quite as high-maintenance. Guineas are affectionate, in their own way, and will develop a definite bond with their owners. Guinea pigs reach full size by their first year, and are content to live in a caged environment throughout their entire lifespan.
But what is the average lifespan of a guinea pig, and what events can change that expectation? In the wild, a guinea pig could only hope to survive the slowest predator on the hunt. A wild guinea pig would be lucky to see his third birthday, which is why they are such prodigious reproducers by nature. A baby guinea pig grows up very quickly, to help keep it indistiguishable from its adult counterparts. Wild guineas travel in packs, to keep predators unable to concentrate on a single member. Even so, guinea pigs have few natural defenses except for the ability to run quickly. Guinea pigs in the wild tend to hide in burrows for protection, a habit the domesticated variety will still exhibit.
A domesticated guinea pig's lifespan, however, is generally 8 to 12 years. This is assuming that the guinea in question has led an exemplary life, free of disease and stress. The best thing that can happen to a guinea pig is to die of old age. If the animal's diet is strictly monitored and it gets the proper amount of exercise, most owners should see a guinea pig celebrate at least his eighth birthday. But there are some factors that can cut this life expectancy down to as little as a year or so. Some are environental in nature, while other can be caused by neglect or owner mistakes. Here are some factors that might keep your guinea pig from living a normal lifespan.
1. Mishandling
This is the factor most likely to cause an early death in a very young guinea pig. Guinea pigs enjoy human contact, and will usually allow their owners to pick them up after a short 'fight'. Great care must be exercised when handling a guinea pig. Their limbs do not move in the same positions as a human, and can become dislocated easily. An undiagnosed and untreated broken bone can lead to more serious complications, such as infections and circulatory problems. Also, guinea pigs tend to jump when leaving an owner's grasp, which could lead to a serious fall or blow to the head. An injury from a fall could lead to internal bleeding and death. If a guinea pig is mishandled, this can reduce his life expectancy to under a year.
2. Dietary abnormalities
Guinea pig diets are usually a combination of dried pellets and fresh produce. The food pellets do contain a certain amount of fat, which can lead to obesity if overdone. An obese pig can expect to live half as long as a normal weight pig. Conversely, guinea pigs often stop eating as a result of other illnesses or stresses. Anorexia is a common disorder among domestic guinea pigs, possibly associated with the stress of living in a caged environment for so long. Anorexia will cause a pig to die within a month of onset. Certain foods, primarily raw beans and potato skins, contain certain enzymes that are poisonous to guinea pigs. Although most owners will take the time to consult manuals before feeding any new food to a guinea pig, occasionally mistakes can be made. Food poisoning is difficult to treat, but easily avoided.
3. Environmental factors
A guinea pig thrives on fairly warm, but not hot, room temperatures. They can easily become overheated and dehydrated in a room heated past 80 degrees. Dehydration is a major killer of guinea pigs, whatever the root cause. Conversely, guinea pigs are also susceptible to respiratory ailments caused by colds. Drafts and air conditioning can turn their cages into cold, damp disease centers. If a guinea pig is left to sleep in a cold, urine-soaked environment through owner neglect, it may contract a fatal case of pneumonia. Guinea pigs do not respond well to most traditional antibiotics, so treatment for a respiratory ailment is expensive and risky.
4. Internal factors
Guinea pigs have their own set of problems that could shorten their lifespan considerably. Much like a rabbit, a guinea pig's teeth grow continuously. They must wear their teeth down through chewing. Occasionally, a guinea pig's teeth will suddenly grow uncontrollably. This can cause an inability to eat food properly, which leads to anorexia and eventual death. Surgery may correct the problem, but the overgrowth may return at any time. Guineas also may develop what is called a megacolon. Although not necessarily a fatal condition in and of itself, a megacolon can indicate a growing dependence on outside help for a guinea pig's health. Basically, a guinea pig's large intestine develops a bulge, which overtaxes the guinea's sphincter muscle. The result is an inability to force out solid feces that builds up in the intestines. The owner must gently squeeze the area surrounding the anal opening, which should encourage the expelling of feces. This task must be performed regularly while the condition exists. This may mean the rest of the guinea's life. Such dependence on outside help may lead to a more lethargic and depressed pig in general, which can mean a reduced lifespan due to emotional stress and depression.
Here's some information on a guinea pig's average life expectancy and the factors involved.
Guinea pigs make excellent housepets because of their docile natures and natural curiosity. Because they are strictly vegetarians, they rarely bite the hand that feeds them, which makes them safe for even the youngest owners. Owning a guinea pig is akin to owning a combination of a cat and a very large hamster at the same time. They are also very close in temperament to a rabbit, but not quite as high-maintenance. Guineas are affectionate, in their own way, and will develop a definite bond with their owners. Guinea pigs reach full size by their first year, and are content to live in a caged environment throughout their entire lifespan.
But what is the average lifespan of a guinea pig, and what events can change that expectation? In the wild, a guinea pig could only hope to survive the slowest predator on the hunt. A wild guinea pig would be lucky to see his third birthday, which is why they are such prodigious reproducers by nature. A baby guinea pig grows up very quickly, to help keep it indistiguishable from its adult counterparts. Wild guineas travel in packs, to keep predators unable to concentrate on a single member. Even so, guinea pigs have few natural defenses except for the ability to run quickly. Guinea pigs in the wild tend to hide in burrows for protection, a habit the domesticated variety will still exhibit.
A domesticated guinea pig's lifespan, however, is generally 8 to 12 years. This is assuming that the guinea in question has led an exemplary life, free of disease and stress. The best thing that can happen to a guinea pig is to die of old age. If the animal's diet is strictly monitored and it gets the proper amount of exercise, most owners should see a guinea pig celebrate at least his eighth birthday. But there are some factors that can cut this life expectancy down to as little as a year or so. Some are environental in nature, while other can be caused by neglect or owner mistakes. Here are some factors that might keep your guinea pig from living a normal lifespan.
1. Mishandling
This is the factor most likely to cause an early death in a very young guinea pig. Guinea pigs enjoy human contact, and will usually allow their owners to pick them up after a short 'fight'. Great care must be exercised when handling a guinea pig. Their limbs do not move in the same positions as a human, and can become dislocated easily. An undiagnosed and untreated broken bone can lead to more serious complications, such as infections and circulatory problems. Also, guinea pigs tend to jump when leaving an owner's grasp, which could lead to a serious fall or blow to the head. An injury from a fall could lead to internal bleeding and death. If a guinea pig is mishandled, this can reduce his life expectancy to under a year.
2. Dietary abnormalities
Guinea pig diets are usually a combination of dried pellets and fresh produce. The food pellets do contain a certain amount of fat, which can lead to obesity if overdone. An obese pig can expect to live half as long as a normal weight pig. Conversely, guinea pigs often stop eating as a result of other illnesses or stresses. Anorexia is a common disorder among domestic guinea pigs, possibly associated with the stress of living in a caged environment for so long. Anorexia will cause a pig to die within a month of onset. Certain foods, primarily raw beans and potato skins, contain certain enzymes that are poisonous to guinea pigs. Although most owners will take the time to consult manuals before feeding any new food to a guinea pig, occasionally mistakes can be made. Food poisoning is difficult to treat, but easily avoided.
3. Environmental factors
A guinea pig thrives on fairly warm, but not hot, room temperatures. They can easily become overheated and dehydrated in a room heated past 80 degrees. Dehydration is a major killer of guinea pigs, whatever the root cause. Conversely, guinea pigs are also susceptible to respiratory ailments caused by colds. Drafts and air conditioning can turn their cages into cold, damp disease centers. If a guinea pig is left to sleep in a cold, urine-soaked environment through owner neglect, it may contract a fatal case of pneumonia. Guinea pigs do not respond well to most traditional antibiotics, so treatment for a respiratory ailment is expensive and risky.
4. Internal factors
Guinea pigs have their own set of problems that could shorten their lifespan considerably. Much like a rabbit, a guinea pig's teeth grow continuously. They must wear their teeth down through chewing. Occasionally, a guinea pig's teeth will suddenly grow uncontrollably. This can cause an inability to eat food properly, which leads to anorexia and eventual death. Surgery may correct the problem, but the overgrowth may return at any time. Guineas also may develop what is called a megacolon. Although not necessarily a fatal condition in and of itself, a megacolon can indicate a growing dependence on outside help for a guinea pig's health. Basically, a guinea pig's large intestine develops a bulge, which overtaxes the guinea's sphincter muscle. The result is an inability to force out solid feces that builds up in the intestines. The owner must gently squeeze the area surrounding the anal opening, which should encourage the expelling of feces. This task must be performed regularly while the condition exists. This may mean the rest of the guinea's life. Such dependence on outside help may lead to a more lethargic and depressed pig in general, which can mean a reduced lifespan due to emotional stress and depression.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Build A House For Your Pet Snake
How To Build A House For Your Pet Snake
What kinds of things do snakes need to survive in captivity? How do you make your snake feel at home?
You should keep your snake in as large a tank as possible. Even small snakes should have at least 20-gallon tanks in which they can live. It will need plenty of room to eat, sleep, bask, and move around in.
The other important feature is the top. It must be secure enough so that the snake cannot open it. Snakes can be strong and will try to push itself out. Once it gets a space wide enough for its head to stick out, it can easily escape.
What to include inside the tank?
Snakes like to hide at times away from everything. Construct a small boxy area in the tank where it can sneak away to when it wants.
Get a decent sized branch for it to crawl on, as well. Snakes like to climb and rest on tree limbs. But be sure to soak it in a chlorine/water solution in order to kill the bugs off. Then rinse the branch thoroughly and allow it to dry.
Some snakes prefer pine wood chips, others like carpet, and still others thrive on "Astroturf," believe it or not. If you are going to use carpet or Astroturf, be sure to completely wash and dry it before putting it in. If you use pine chips, watch for urine and feces and remove the soiled chips as soon as possible, as it will become a prime breeding ground for fungus. Snakes like to burrow under the base of their tanks.
What conditions to maintain in your snake's tank?
Your snake will need to have a couple different climates in the tank. You'll want to consider buying an incandescent light bulb and set it up outside the tank. Shine the light against only part of the tank, so the snake will have a good place where it can bask, and put the light on a timer, so the snake won't overheat. Most snakes need the temperature of their tank to be between 70 and 85 degrees. The lower temperature at night, and the higher temperature so it can most effectively digest its food.
What kinds of things do snakes need to survive in captivity? How do you make your snake feel at home?
You should keep your snake in as large a tank as possible. Even small snakes should have at least 20-gallon tanks in which they can live. It will need plenty of room to eat, sleep, bask, and move around in.
The other important feature is the top. It must be secure enough so that the snake cannot open it. Snakes can be strong and will try to push itself out. Once it gets a space wide enough for its head to stick out, it can easily escape.
What to include inside the tank?
Snakes like to hide at times away from everything. Construct a small boxy area in the tank where it can sneak away to when it wants.
Get a decent sized branch for it to crawl on, as well. Snakes like to climb and rest on tree limbs. But be sure to soak it in a chlorine/water solution in order to kill the bugs off. Then rinse the branch thoroughly and allow it to dry.
Some snakes prefer pine wood chips, others like carpet, and still others thrive on "Astroturf," believe it or not. If you are going to use carpet or Astroturf, be sure to completely wash and dry it before putting it in. If you use pine chips, watch for urine and feces and remove the soiled chips as soon as possible, as it will become a prime breeding ground for fungus. Snakes like to burrow under the base of their tanks.
What conditions to maintain in your snake's tank?
Your snake will need to have a couple different climates in the tank. You'll want to consider buying an incandescent light bulb and set it up outside the tank. Shine the light against only part of the tank, so the snake will have a good place where it can bask, and put the light on a timer, so the snake won't overheat. Most snakes need the temperature of their tank to be between 70 and 85 degrees. The lower temperature at night, and the higher temperature so it can most effectively digest its food.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Keeping Snakes As Pets
Keeping Snakes As Pets
Snake can be kept as pets safely and correctly in your home by choosing the right terrarium and equiping it properly.
Keeping snakes as pets is an interesting and rewarding hobby. However, the first thing you should realise about this pastime is it requires a fair amount of dedication, and so you should only consider it if you seriously believe you meet this requirement. You must also consider the other people you live with; they might not be as keen on the Giant Python as you first thought.
These points aside, the main consideration is choosing which of the many types of snakes you wish to keep. If you wish to keep one of the larger snakes as a pet you must decide if you have enough room to build a suitably sized terrarium. A terrarium is a container in which living plants and creatures are kept in an environment that replicates the natural environment, and can be built in several different styles to suit requirements.
It is best to construct the terrarium yourself to modify according to the dimensions of your house, the needs of your snake species and of course your financial status. One built fully out of glass is suitable for the varieties of smaller snakes, and those that require high humidity, because the glass will not be affected by damp problems. If your pets only require low to medium humidity then a glass fronted wooden terrarium would be suitable. Both of these sorts of terrarium can be adapted in terms of height, and should be made taller if you are considering keeping snakes that naturally dwell in trees.
The walls of a terrarium can be built out of brick, but this should only be done on a solid concrete base. This is a more permanent adjustment to a part of the house, so it is essential to draw plans first. Consulting with an expert is also a good idea. If you are serious about keeping large snakes as pets, it may be necessary to convert a whole room into a terrarium. Make sure all escape routes are sealed off though, and cover the windows with wire mesh, so ventilation can be provided by opening the window without letting the snake escape.
The plants and natural elements in each terrarium should mirror the natural elements of the different types of snakes. Essential features though include a hide box, a small box that the snake has narrow access to where it can hide and sleep. Another essential is lighting to keep the snake warm, which can be bought from specialist pet shops. As a general guide the temperature range should be between 70f and 77f.
Snakes will eat anything that moves that they can overpower. Even a pig is not able to daunt the appetite of some of the giant snakes. Use your common sense, and do not put prey in that is too large for a smaller snake as it might cause injury. Oh, and a final word of warning – don't be tempted to use the pets of family or neighbours as a cheap source of food for your snakes!
Snake can be kept as pets safely and correctly in your home by choosing the right terrarium and equiping it properly.
Keeping snakes as pets is an interesting and rewarding hobby. However, the first thing you should realise about this pastime is it requires a fair amount of dedication, and so you should only consider it if you seriously believe you meet this requirement. You must also consider the other people you live with; they might not be as keen on the Giant Python as you first thought.
These points aside, the main consideration is choosing which of the many types of snakes you wish to keep. If you wish to keep one of the larger snakes as a pet you must decide if you have enough room to build a suitably sized terrarium. A terrarium is a container in which living plants and creatures are kept in an environment that replicates the natural environment, and can be built in several different styles to suit requirements.
It is best to construct the terrarium yourself to modify according to the dimensions of your house, the needs of your snake species and of course your financial status. One built fully out of glass is suitable for the varieties of smaller snakes, and those that require high humidity, because the glass will not be affected by damp problems. If your pets only require low to medium humidity then a glass fronted wooden terrarium would be suitable. Both of these sorts of terrarium can be adapted in terms of height, and should be made taller if you are considering keeping snakes that naturally dwell in trees.
The walls of a terrarium can be built out of brick, but this should only be done on a solid concrete base. This is a more permanent adjustment to a part of the house, so it is essential to draw plans first. Consulting with an expert is also a good idea. If you are serious about keeping large snakes as pets, it may be necessary to convert a whole room into a terrarium. Make sure all escape routes are sealed off though, and cover the windows with wire mesh, so ventilation can be provided by opening the window without letting the snake escape.
The plants and natural elements in each terrarium should mirror the natural elements of the different types of snakes. Essential features though include a hide box, a small box that the snake has narrow access to where it can hide and sleep. Another essential is lighting to keep the snake warm, which can be bought from specialist pet shops. As a general guide the temperature range should be between 70f and 77f.
Snakes will eat anything that moves that they can overpower. Even a pig is not able to daunt the appetite of some of the giant snakes. Use your common sense, and do not put prey in that is too large for a smaller snake as it might cause injury. Oh, and a final word of warning – don't be tempted to use the pets of family or neighbours as a cheap source of food for your snakes!
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Snakes As Pets
Snakes As Pets
Snakes can be good as pets; before diving head first into buying one however, you should know what you're getting into.
The relationship between man and snake has almost always been encouraged by fear. Unexpected encounters with snakes have led to many a horror story and the furthering of a fear that isn't always rooted in truth.
More and more, people are acquiring snakes as pets and learning that, despite their seedy reputation, the snake is and will always be a mysterious, fascinating creature.
Though there are a wide variety of snakes that have been domesticated, the safest and easiest snakes to keep as pets are pythons, corn and rat snakes. For those interested in observing nature up close, a snake can make a great companion. There are several factors to consider, however, before purchasing a snake:
1. Fear: If you or a member of your family has a fear of snakes, don't assume that owning a snake will cure your phobia. It won't. Make certain that you and every member of your household is comfortable around snakes.
2. Eating habits: Snakes eat rodents, frogs, insects and other snakes. If you're not comfortable handling these items, it's best to consider another pet.
3. Size: Many snakes in the boa family grow up to 15 feet in length. You may bring home a cute 12 inch pet, but remember, this snake will mature and grow rapidly. You will need to provide a fairly large cage for your snake to grow in to.
"SNAKE CARE"
TEMPERATURE
Because snakes are reptiles, they have no internal thermometer to regulate body temperature. This will be your job. You will need to provide special lighting, which your snake will bask in when it's cold. Alternatively, you'll also need to provide a hiding area that your pet can crawl into when it's warm. The use of infra red basking lamps work well to warm snakes and simple flower pots (turned upside down) can provide enough shelter for your pet to cool off.
FOOD AND WATER
Snakes need fresh water. You may not ever see your pet drink, but regardless, it's a necessary staple. Many pet snakes will soak themselves in the water, so be sure to use a shallow bowl and one that cannot be tipped over. Water that you provide your snake with should be room temperature.
Snakes survive on a diet of mice and rodents. Frozen rodents are sold in pet food stores and are disease and parasite free. While you can feed your snake live rodents, you will run the risk of infecting your pet with an unknown disease.
DISEASE
Snakes can and do get sick, just like any other animal. The most common ailment in snakes is the infestation of parasites. Mites and bugs are visible and appear as tiny black beads on the outside of your pet and the lining of his cage. Both mites and parasites can be treated with the help of medication. Don't underestimate mites! If allowed to breed and grow, a large number of mites can suck almost all of your snake's blood, leaving him defenseless and in a life and death struggle.
More serious conditions can hamper your snake's overall health, as well. Symptoms such as weight loss, runny stools, sudden refusal to eat, or staring upwards constantly are all signs that your pet needs veterinarian care immediately.
THE DANGERS
Unlike owning a different sort of pet, there are certain things that you absolutely cannot do. Take special precautions to:
1. Never place your unprotected hand inside your pet's cage during feeding time. Understand that your snake only sees food when you reach your hand inside it's cage with a mouse. It is very difficult for your pet to differentiate between your hand and it's food supply. Always feed your pet using a glove or "black box." A "black box" is a small box that contains a rodent or other food supply. By tipping the box and dropping your pet's food, you will protect yourself from an unintentional bite.
2. Never put your snake around your neck. Yes, every pet owner tries it and though it may look and feel completely safe, it's not. Snakes naturally constrict during times of stress. A snake can choke its owner in under ten minutes.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
Like all pets, snakes need special care and supplies. Make sure you at least have the following:
Terrarium: This will be your snake's home. Make it as comfortable as possible, filling the floor with newspaper and bedding, several rocks and something for your pet to crawl under. A ten gallon sized terrarium is great for small snakes, but you'll need to provide more room for your pet as it grows. Be certain your terrarium has a sliding door somewhere (for easy feeding) and a lock to prevent accidental escapes.
High Range Thermometer: You'll need a thermometer to keep your pet's body temperature elevated. Each snake requires a different amount of heat, so study up on the breed you'll be bringing home.
Heat Pad/Heat Lamp: Many snake owners have both a heating pad and a heating lamp. While the pad isn't entirely necessary, it is an easy way to keep your pet at the proper temperature. A range of 82-90-degrees is recommended for most breeds.
Water Pan: Don't forget the water. Your snake will need fresh water every day.
Shedding Help: Your pet will shed approximately once every three months. You'll know when your snake is shedding by his "off appearance." Your snake's eyes will become cloudy and small pieces of skin will line the bottom of his cage. You can help your pet through this phase by soaking him in pre-shedding lotions. If you choose not to do this, be certain to remove shedded skin from your pet's living area often.
Snakes can make a nice, educational experience for any family. It's good to know what you're getting into before purchasing a snake, however. Talk with others (including pet store personal) to learn more about snakes and the breed you're interested in.
Snakes can be good as pets; before diving head first into buying one however, you should know what you're getting into.
The relationship between man and snake has almost always been encouraged by fear. Unexpected encounters with snakes have led to many a horror story and the furthering of a fear that isn't always rooted in truth.
More and more, people are acquiring snakes as pets and learning that, despite their seedy reputation, the snake is and will always be a mysterious, fascinating creature.
Though there are a wide variety of snakes that have been domesticated, the safest and easiest snakes to keep as pets are pythons, corn and rat snakes. For those interested in observing nature up close, a snake can make a great companion. There are several factors to consider, however, before purchasing a snake:
1. Fear: If you or a member of your family has a fear of snakes, don't assume that owning a snake will cure your phobia. It won't. Make certain that you and every member of your household is comfortable around snakes.
2. Eating habits: Snakes eat rodents, frogs, insects and other snakes. If you're not comfortable handling these items, it's best to consider another pet.
3. Size: Many snakes in the boa family grow up to 15 feet in length. You may bring home a cute 12 inch pet, but remember, this snake will mature and grow rapidly. You will need to provide a fairly large cage for your snake to grow in to.
"SNAKE CARE"
TEMPERATURE
Because snakes are reptiles, they have no internal thermometer to regulate body temperature. This will be your job. You will need to provide special lighting, which your snake will bask in when it's cold. Alternatively, you'll also need to provide a hiding area that your pet can crawl into when it's warm. The use of infra red basking lamps work well to warm snakes and simple flower pots (turned upside down) can provide enough shelter for your pet to cool off.
FOOD AND WATER
Snakes need fresh water. You may not ever see your pet drink, but regardless, it's a necessary staple. Many pet snakes will soak themselves in the water, so be sure to use a shallow bowl and one that cannot be tipped over. Water that you provide your snake with should be room temperature.
Snakes survive on a diet of mice and rodents. Frozen rodents are sold in pet food stores and are disease and parasite free. While you can feed your snake live rodents, you will run the risk of infecting your pet with an unknown disease.
DISEASE
Snakes can and do get sick, just like any other animal. The most common ailment in snakes is the infestation of parasites. Mites and bugs are visible and appear as tiny black beads on the outside of your pet and the lining of his cage. Both mites and parasites can be treated with the help of medication. Don't underestimate mites! If allowed to breed and grow, a large number of mites can suck almost all of your snake's blood, leaving him defenseless and in a life and death struggle.
More serious conditions can hamper your snake's overall health, as well. Symptoms such as weight loss, runny stools, sudden refusal to eat, or staring upwards constantly are all signs that your pet needs veterinarian care immediately.
THE DANGERS
Unlike owning a different sort of pet, there are certain things that you absolutely cannot do. Take special precautions to:
1. Never place your unprotected hand inside your pet's cage during feeding time. Understand that your snake only sees food when you reach your hand inside it's cage with a mouse. It is very difficult for your pet to differentiate between your hand and it's food supply. Always feed your pet using a glove or "black box." A "black box" is a small box that contains a rodent or other food supply. By tipping the box and dropping your pet's food, you will protect yourself from an unintentional bite.
2. Never put your snake around your neck. Yes, every pet owner tries it and though it may look and feel completely safe, it's not. Snakes naturally constrict during times of stress. A snake can choke its owner in under ten minutes.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
Like all pets, snakes need special care and supplies. Make sure you at least have the following:
Terrarium: This will be your snake's home. Make it as comfortable as possible, filling the floor with newspaper and bedding, several rocks and something for your pet to crawl under. A ten gallon sized terrarium is great for small snakes, but you'll need to provide more room for your pet as it grows. Be certain your terrarium has a sliding door somewhere (for easy feeding) and a lock to prevent accidental escapes.
High Range Thermometer: You'll need a thermometer to keep your pet's body temperature elevated. Each snake requires a different amount of heat, so study up on the breed you'll be bringing home.
Heat Pad/Heat Lamp: Many snake owners have both a heating pad and a heating lamp. While the pad isn't entirely necessary, it is an easy way to keep your pet at the proper temperature. A range of 82-90-degrees is recommended for most breeds.
Water Pan: Don't forget the water. Your snake will need fresh water every day.
Shedding Help: Your pet will shed approximately once every three months. You'll know when your snake is shedding by his "off appearance." Your snake's eyes will become cloudy and small pieces of skin will line the bottom of his cage. You can help your pet through this phase by soaking him in pre-shedding lotions. If you choose not to do this, be certain to remove shedded skin from your pet's living area often.
Snakes can make a nice, educational experience for any family. It's good to know what you're getting into before purchasing a snake, however. Talk with others (including pet store personal) to learn more about snakes and the breed you're interested in.
Monday, January 12, 2009
To Feed Your Pet Tarantula
What To Feed Your Pet Tarantula
What kinds of foods do tarantulas like to eat? What should you feed it?
Tarantulas like eating life food. They particularly enjoy feasting on a nice cricket or two. You can buy these crickets at most pet stores or bait stores. That is their most commonly eaten and most popular treats. However, tarantulas also like foods like cockroaches, moths, insects, and mealworms. Again, you can get these foods at a pet or bait shop.
The largest food these spiders will eat is pinkie mice. Large tarantulas enjoy these once in awhile. But you need to make sure you remove any uneaten prey from their homes if they're still there after one day.
As you can imagine, tarantulas can be expensive to care for. It may cross your mind to catch your own tarantula food. If you choose to do this, make sure there are no pesticides on the food. It's often difficult to tell whether a particular insect has pesticide on it. But unless you're absolutely sure it's safe, don't feed it to your spider. It can quickly get sick.
You should feed your young tarantula no more than twice or three times a week. Once your tarantula is an adult, it can live fine on only feeding once or twice a week.
One rule to follow when feeding a tarantula is to not feed it anything that is larger than it is. If you want to feed it something that is half its size, that is plenty big.
Also, you'll want to make sure your tarantula has plenty of water to drink. You can probably get away with giving it a small container of water that is just big enough for it to drink from. They don't need much water. They'll mainly get the moisture they need from the air and from the food they're eating.
There will be periods of time during which your tarantula won't eat for months. But you don't need to worry, because that's normal. It's just going through a moulting stage. This is when the tarantula removes its old layer of skin and grows new skin. You shouldn't force your tarantula, nor be concerned, when it doesn't want to eat. Just make sure there is no prey in the tank with them when they go through this stage. Their skin gets very soft, and crickets tend to eat their skin if given the chance.
What kinds of foods do tarantulas like to eat? What should you feed it?
Tarantulas like eating life food. They particularly enjoy feasting on a nice cricket or two. You can buy these crickets at most pet stores or bait stores. That is their most commonly eaten and most popular treats. However, tarantulas also like foods like cockroaches, moths, insects, and mealworms. Again, you can get these foods at a pet or bait shop.
The largest food these spiders will eat is pinkie mice. Large tarantulas enjoy these once in awhile. But you need to make sure you remove any uneaten prey from their homes if they're still there after one day.
As you can imagine, tarantulas can be expensive to care for. It may cross your mind to catch your own tarantula food. If you choose to do this, make sure there are no pesticides on the food. It's often difficult to tell whether a particular insect has pesticide on it. But unless you're absolutely sure it's safe, don't feed it to your spider. It can quickly get sick.
You should feed your young tarantula no more than twice or three times a week. Once your tarantula is an adult, it can live fine on only feeding once or twice a week.
One rule to follow when feeding a tarantula is to not feed it anything that is larger than it is. If you want to feed it something that is half its size, that is plenty big.
Also, you'll want to make sure your tarantula has plenty of water to drink. You can probably get away with giving it a small container of water that is just big enough for it to drink from. They don't need much water. They'll mainly get the moisture they need from the air and from the food they're eating.
There will be periods of time during which your tarantula won't eat for months. But you don't need to worry, because that's normal. It's just going through a moulting stage. This is when the tarantula removes its old layer of skin and grows new skin. You shouldn't force your tarantula, nor be concerned, when it doesn't want to eat. Just make sure there is no prey in the tank with them when they go through this stage. Their skin gets very soft, and crickets tend to eat their skin if given the chance.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Pet Tarantula Care
Pet Tarantula Care
Learn how to care for your pet tarantula!
Tarantulas are fairly simple creatures. You don't need to give them a whole lot of space, but they do need somewhere they can walk around, eat, and drink.
What kind of house can you give a tarantula?
Shoeboxes make great tarantula houses, and so do aquariums or plastic jars. Whichever container you choose to house your tarantula in, you need to make sure it has a top that you can seal shut. You should cover your spider's house with a screen or mesh in order to give it some ventilation and still keep it properly enclosed. Having the top of your tarantula's home secured is of utmost importance. You don't want to give it a chance to escape. And you want to make sure the top is secure enough that it won't be able to push the top open.
What kinds of supplies do you need for your spider's home?
You need to make sure you keep your spider in a warm, temperate home. Keep your tarantula in a home with a temperature gradient of about 80 to 85 degrees. If you don't want to keep you home at that temperature level all the time, you can get a heating pad and put it under your spider's home, or you can try heat rocks or even put your spider in a room that is separately climate controlled.
Your spider likes humidity as well. You should keep his home at a humidity level of about 60-90 percent. It won't hurt anything to spray your tank lightly with a fine misty water every week to keep the humidity level up.
Also need to make sure your spider has a good place in which it can dig: spiders like places they can burrow inside.
Learn how to care for your pet tarantula!
Tarantulas are fairly simple creatures. You don't need to give them a whole lot of space, but they do need somewhere they can walk around, eat, and drink.
What kind of house can you give a tarantula?
Shoeboxes make great tarantula houses, and so do aquariums or plastic jars. Whichever container you choose to house your tarantula in, you need to make sure it has a top that you can seal shut. You should cover your spider's house with a screen or mesh in order to give it some ventilation and still keep it properly enclosed. Having the top of your tarantula's home secured is of utmost importance. You don't want to give it a chance to escape. And you want to make sure the top is secure enough that it won't be able to push the top open.
What kinds of supplies do you need for your spider's home?
You need to make sure you keep your spider in a warm, temperate home. Keep your tarantula in a home with a temperature gradient of about 80 to 85 degrees. If you don't want to keep you home at that temperature level all the time, you can get a heating pad and put it under your spider's home, or you can try heat rocks or even put your spider in a room that is separately climate controlled.
Your spider likes humidity as well. You should keep his home at a humidity level of about 60-90 percent. It won't hurt anything to spray your tank lightly with a fine misty water every week to keep the humidity level up.
Also need to make sure your spider has a good place in which it can dig: spiders like places they can burrow inside.
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Pet Tarantulas
Pet Tarantulas
Should you get a tarantula as a pet? What are the different types of tarantulas?
Tarantulas are actually great pets to have. They are low maintenance, and you can learn a lot from them. If you're looking for a pet to cuddle with or a pet you take for a walk, you'll want to look elsewhere.
Are tarantulas good pets?
One thing you need to remember is that all tarantulas are venomous. You can be injured by a spider bite. You need to be aware of that fact at all times. So, tarantulas are not for everyone. If you are bitten by a tarantula, you need to talk with your medical practitioner.
The care for tarantulas is generally fairly simple. These methods work for terrestrial forms of tarantulas. Once you build their simple home out of a shoebox or a 20-gallon aquarium and give them dirt in which to burrow, their care is simple. Just make sure their temperature gradient remains high at about 80 degrees and mist their homes once a week to provide humidity. You also need to make sure the top of their home is secured tightly so they won't escaped.
What kinds are there?
Certain tarantula types are better for beginners than others are. You likely want to get a female tarantula because they live longer and are just as easy to care for, and they cost the same as males. Here are some of the best tarantulas for beginning tarantula owners.
Should you get a tarantula as a pet? What are the different types of tarantulas?
Tarantulas are actually great pets to have. They are low maintenance, and you can learn a lot from them. If you're looking for a pet to cuddle with or a pet you take for a walk, you'll want to look elsewhere.
Are tarantulas good pets?
One thing you need to remember is that all tarantulas are venomous. You can be injured by a spider bite. You need to be aware of that fact at all times. So, tarantulas are not for everyone. If you are bitten by a tarantula, you need to talk with your medical practitioner.
The care for tarantulas is generally fairly simple. These methods work for terrestrial forms of tarantulas. Once you build their simple home out of a shoebox or a 20-gallon aquarium and give them dirt in which to burrow, their care is simple. Just make sure their temperature gradient remains high at about 80 degrees and mist their homes once a week to provide humidity. You also need to make sure the top of their home is secured tightly so they won't escaped.
What kinds are there?
Certain tarantula types are better for beginners than others are. You likely want to get a female tarantula because they live longer and are just as easy to care for, and they cost the same as males. Here are some of the best tarantulas for beginning tarantula owners.
- Grammastola rosea or Chilean Flame or Rose. These spiders are very mild and easy to handle. Males of this breed tend to be more aggressive.
- Grammastola cala or Chilean Common. These are no considered to be of the same species as the above breed. However, these spiders are more difficult to find.
- Brachypelma emilia or Mexican Red Legan.
- Grammastola pulchra or Brazilian Black Tarantula. These tarantulas are gentle and they can grow to be fairly large in size.
- Aphonopelma chalocodes or Mexican Blonde.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Horned Toad
Horned Toad
Is a horned toad really horny? What is a horned toad? How did it get its name?
What is a horned toad?
Most horned toad species are gentle creatures. They prefer dry conditions. If you encounter a horned toad, you may notice that it likes to watch you. Horned toads will sit and stare at you, rarely looking to run away.
Horned toads generally grow to about six inches in length, but possibly, their most extravagant physical feature is their crown of horns or spines. Horned toads have flat bodies, short legs, and a single row of spines on their sides. They range in color from greens to browns to grays and are generally the most active in the early morning hours. They like to sit in the sand, soaking up sunrays.
How did they get their name?
Despite what their name suggests, only mate in the summer months. Horned toads lay eggs in late summer, which hatch within two months. These animals were named because of the tiny horn-like spines they have running along their sides. These protrusions are so rare for frogs or toads that people thought they were giving them an appropriate name. We can always wonder whether those who named the horned toad didn't have a sense of humor, however.
Is a horned toad really horny? What is a horned toad? How did it get its name?
What is a horned toad?
Most horned toad species are gentle creatures. They prefer dry conditions. If you encounter a horned toad, you may notice that it likes to watch you. Horned toads will sit and stare at you, rarely looking to run away.
Horned toads generally grow to about six inches in length, but possibly, their most extravagant physical feature is their crown of horns or spines. Horned toads have flat bodies, short legs, and a single row of spines on their sides. They range in color from greens to browns to grays and are generally the most active in the early morning hours. They like to sit in the sand, soaking up sunrays.
How did they get their name?
Despite what their name suggests, only mate in the summer months. Horned toads lay eggs in late summer, which hatch within two months. These animals were named because of the tiny horn-like spines they have running along their sides. These protrusions are so rare for frogs or toads that people thought they were giving them an appropriate name. We can always wonder whether those who named the horned toad didn't have a sense of humor, however.
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Aquatic Frogs For Your Aquarium
Aquatic Frogs For Your Aquarium
What kinds of frogs are aquatic? Can you keep them in an aquarium with other fish? What special care do they need?
An aquatic frog to consider for the beginner might be the African Dwarf Frog. It's small, active, cute and about as difficult to care for as a tank of goldfish.
What are the physical and behavioral characteristics of aquatic frogs?
When picking out a frog in the pet shop, if it darts around and gives the pet guy a hard time, it means it's healthy and may prove to be resilient. However, if the frog just barely moves or hardly puts up a fight, it may be a symptom of sickness. Also, pay attention to its weight. A skinny frog or one with hazy or cloudy eyes may be a sign of illness, as well. Once one gets sick, it can be very hard to cure it. So you'll want to pick out a hardy one.
Can you keep aquatic frogs in an aquarium with fish and/or other aquatic pets?
Some species will eat just about anything that is smaller than they are. So keep in mind that all its other "roommates" should be larger, but not large enough to find your frog a delicacy. Once this is done, they get along quite well.
What's their natural habitat?
They usually live in very calm and moist regions, such as the tropics, therefore fix your aquariums up accordingly. The most common is creating the half-water/half-landmass environment, but adapt your tank to the type of frog you buy. Tree frogs get a vertical tank with many objects to climb and water at the bottom. Others are very happy in the same environment as you would put goldfish in. These are the 100% aquatic frogs.
What special care needs do they have?
Try to avoid extreme changes, either up or down. Leave them away from direct sunlight and keep the inside of the tank around 60-74 degrees. Also, try using a fluorescent light, as it does not produce heat. For their water, do not use distilled. Use tap and then add cleanser drops for pet health only. In addition, metal ions are extremely toxic to frogs. So, be sure there are no metal objects inside the tank with them.
Provide the frogs with gravel either too large to ingest or small enough that they can "pass" the rocks with veritable ease. To avoid over-crowding, give 10 gallons of water space for each frog and feed only once a day. Such delicacies as meal worms, shrimp pellets, crickets or brine shrimp will do fine.
What's cool about them?
What kinds of frogs are aquatic? Can you keep them in an aquarium with other fish? What special care do they need?
An aquatic frog to consider for the beginner might be the African Dwarf Frog. It's small, active, cute and about as difficult to care for as a tank of goldfish.
What are the physical and behavioral characteristics of aquatic frogs?
When picking out a frog in the pet shop, if it darts around and gives the pet guy a hard time, it means it's healthy and may prove to be resilient. However, if the frog just barely moves or hardly puts up a fight, it may be a symptom of sickness. Also, pay attention to its weight. A skinny frog or one with hazy or cloudy eyes may be a sign of illness, as well. Once one gets sick, it can be very hard to cure it. So you'll want to pick out a hardy one.
Can you keep aquatic frogs in an aquarium with fish and/or other aquatic pets?
Some species will eat just about anything that is smaller than they are. So keep in mind that all its other "roommates" should be larger, but not large enough to find your frog a delicacy. Once this is done, they get along quite well.
What's their natural habitat?
They usually live in very calm and moist regions, such as the tropics, therefore fix your aquariums up accordingly. The most common is creating the half-water/half-landmass environment, but adapt your tank to the type of frog you buy. Tree frogs get a vertical tank with many objects to climb and water at the bottom. Others are very happy in the same environment as you would put goldfish in. These are the 100% aquatic frogs.
What special care needs do they have?
Try to avoid extreme changes, either up or down. Leave them away from direct sunlight and keep the inside of the tank around 60-74 degrees. Also, try using a fluorescent light, as it does not produce heat. For their water, do not use distilled. Use tap and then add cleanser drops for pet health only. In addition, metal ions are extremely toxic to frogs. So, be sure there are no metal objects inside the tank with them.
Provide the frogs with gravel either too large to ingest or small enough that they can "pass" the rocks with veritable ease. To avoid over-crowding, give 10 gallons of water space for each frog and feed only once a day. Such delicacies as meal worms, shrimp pellets, crickets or brine shrimp will do fine.
What's cool about them?
- They can become friendly over time and will actually eat directly from your hands.
- The African Clawed Frog (Xenopus Laevis) was the first vertebrate to be successfully cloned.
- They have even traveled to space aboard the space shuttle several times.
- They can swim in any direction, side to side, forwards, backwards and can be a blast to watch.
- Frogs are incredibly interesting to watch and can teach your child responsibility with out the stress of owning a cat or dog.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Freshwater Turtle Care
Freshwater Turtle Care
Fresh water turtles--usually Red Eared Sliders--make interesting and educational pets. Learn how to keep and care for them.
Red-eared sliders, water turtles from the Americas, grow from the size of a half-dollar coin to the size of your foot. All the while, the intricately detailed, colored shells show off your pets for everyone.
These turtles only need feeding once or twice a week and will live a long life if properly cared for. When getting turtles, it's a good idea to try to get females. The males can be more aggressive and are known for snapping and biting. Unfortunately, it's not always easy to tell when these reptiles are young. However, the long claws usually give a female away.
You must always use caution when handling turtles. They can carry salmonella, which can make people sick or even kill a baby or elderly person. Make sure to wash hands thoroughly after handling water turtles. Young, baby turtles are even more apt to carry the bacteria, which one reason they're illegal in the U.S. Turtles must usually be at least three to four inches in length before they can be bought or sold.
These turtles require a basic aquarium setup. Don't get them something too small. Their growth depends on the tank you provide. A 10-20 gallon tank will suffice for two to three young turtles. They need upwards of a 50-gallon tank once mature after a few years.
The basic setup is a pump to circulate the water, a heater to keep the water at about 78 degrees Fahrenheit, and a lamp that will give the turtles ultraviolet light, which they need for their shells. Water should be changed at least every three to four months.
As far as food, most pet stores stock food for water turtles. Get a basin or tub and feed the turtles there to prevent the tank from getting dirty with uneaten food. Turtles are also known to like greens, vegetables, insects, raw hamburger, and wet cat food. These other things are fine, but the turtles' main diet should consist of the sticks or pellets for turtles.
Fresh water turtles--usually Red Eared Sliders--make interesting and educational pets. Learn how to keep and care for them.
Red-eared sliders, water turtles from the Americas, grow from the size of a half-dollar coin to the size of your foot. All the while, the intricately detailed, colored shells show off your pets for everyone.
These turtles only need feeding once or twice a week and will live a long life if properly cared for. When getting turtles, it's a good idea to try to get females. The males can be more aggressive and are known for snapping and biting. Unfortunately, it's not always easy to tell when these reptiles are young. However, the long claws usually give a female away.
You must always use caution when handling turtles. They can carry salmonella, which can make people sick or even kill a baby or elderly person. Make sure to wash hands thoroughly after handling water turtles. Young, baby turtles are even more apt to carry the bacteria, which one reason they're illegal in the U.S. Turtles must usually be at least three to four inches in length before they can be bought or sold.
These turtles require a basic aquarium setup. Don't get them something too small. Their growth depends on the tank you provide. A 10-20 gallon tank will suffice for two to three young turtles. They need upwards of a 50-gallon tank once mature after a few years.
The basic setup is a pump to circulate the water, a heater to keep the water at about 78 degrees Fahrenheit, and a lamp that will give the turtles ultraviolet light, which they need for their shells. Water should be changed at least every three to four months.
As far as food, most pet stores stock food for water turtles. Get a basin or tub and feed the turtles there to prevent the tank from getting dirty with uneaten food. Turtles are also known to like greens, vegetables, insects, raw hamburger, and wet cat food. These other things are fine, but the turtles' main diet should consist of the sticks or pellets for turtles.
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
Frogs As Pets
Frogs As Pets
How do you know if you should get a frog for a pet? What kinds of things should you consider?
If you're shopping around for the perfect pet frog then you may have a greater task at hand than you first expected. There is a diverse market of tamed frogs for sale today, so be sure to consider these things before you pick out your next amphibian buddy.
What kinds of frogs make good pets?
Frogs have become popular pets because of their exotic looks and intriguing habits. If you wish to own an active frog that will entertain you or your children, then a good choice would be an aquatic frog or a tree frog. These frogs require minimal care and will be an active addition to your amphibian family. The African Dwarf Frog and the Oriental Firebellied Toad are two active frogs that are great for beginners. As long as you maintain their aquarium and provide these frogs with crickets to eat, they make excellent pets. Another good beginner frog is the White's Tree Frog. This frog likes to perform for its owner and loves to be held. However, the White's Tree Frog is inclined to get very fat and can thus become a less active pet. Also, this frog prefers a more humid environment so you must be sure to mist its tank a couple times every day.
Which frogs should average pet owners avoid?
Unless you are an expert frog owner, leave the poison frogs off of your want list. Though domesticated poisonous frogs no longer retain their toxic elements, they are extremely difficult to care for and require expert care from their owners. Expensive frogs are generally rare and exotic animals, and have very delicate lifestyles that must be maintained by experts. Very small infant frogs should be avoided on account of the care they require and their tendency to grow into drastically different adult
frogs.
How do you know if you should get a frog for a pet? What kinds of things should you consider?
If you're shopping around for the perfect pet frog then you may have a greater task at hand than you first expected. There is a diverse market of tamed frogs for sale today, so be sure to consider these things before you pick out your next amphibian buddy.
What kinds of frogs make good pets?
Frogs have become popular pets because of their exotic looks and intriguing habits. If you wish to own an active frog that will entertain you or your children, then a good choice would be an aquatic frog or a tree frog. These frogs require minimal care and will be an active addition to your amphibian family. The African Dwarf Frog and the Oriental Firebellied Toad are two active frogs that are great for beginners. As long as you maintain their aquarium and provide these frogs with crickets to eat, they make excellent pets. Another good beginner frog is the White's Tree Frog. This frog likes to perform for its owner and loves to be held. However, the White's Tree Frog is inclined to get very fat and can thus become a less active pet. Also, this frog prefers a more humid environment so you must be sure to mist its tank a couple times every day.
Which frogs should average pet owners avoid?
Unless you are an expert frog owner, leave the poison frogs off of your want list. Though domesticated poisonous frogs no longer retain their toxic elements, they are extremely difficult to care for and require expert care from their owners. Expensive frogs are generally rare and exotic animals, and have very delicate lifestyles that must be maintained by experts. Very small infant frogs should be avoided on account of the care they require and their tendency to grow into drastically different adult
frogs.
Monday, January 5, 2009
To Care For Rabbits: Droppings
How To Care For Rabbits: Droppings
Why do rabbits have different colored poop at night? Should they be eating it? Should I keep them from eating their night droppings?
Though the habit sounds disgusting, it's perfectly normal for rabbits to eat part of their own waste. Rabbits produce these "cecotropes" or "night droppings," as well as most other mammals. However, unlike most mammals, rabbits rely on the process of eating their cecotropes after they've passed them through their bodies.
Exactly what are "cecotropes"
Cecotropes are a substance that leaves a rabbit's body, but still has important nutritional value. Naturally, they are entirely different from the small pellet droppings that rabbits produce. Those droppings are actual waste. Even though they exit from the same end of the rabbit, the difference between ordinary droppings and cecotropes is vital to a rabbit's health. Within its intestines, a rabbit produces cecum. Cecum is an indigestible part of the animal's diet. Though it passes through the rabbit's body, it is not waste. Cecum helps rabbits produce vitamins, minerals, fatty and amino acids and the rabbit needs to eat the cecotropes to get these important nutrients.
Do cecotropes look different from ordinary rabbit droppings?
Yes. Cecotropes are a greenish color and are much softer. Rabbits often lick cecotropes straight from the anal area, so don't be alarmed by this behavior.
Do cecotropes mean that my rabbit is sick?
No, this process actually helps keep rabbits healthy. In fact, if your rabbit is unable to eat its cecotropes this could be an indicator of illness. Sometimes the cecotropes exit the rabbit's body at the same time as other wastes, or sometimes they are too runny for the rabbit to eat again. In each case, the rabbit could have a disease or nutritional problem, and should be checked out.
Why do rabbits have different colored poop at night? Should they be eating it? Should I keep them from eating their night droppings?
Though the habit sounds disgusting, it's perfectly normal for rabbits to eat part of their own waste. Rabbits produce these "cecotropes" or "night droppings," as well as most other mammals. However, unlike most mammals, rabbits rely on the process of eating their cecotropes after they've passed them through their bodies.
Exactly what are "cecotropes"
Cecotropes are a substance that leaves a rabbit's body, but still has important nutritional value. Naturally, they are entirely different from the small pellet droppings that rabbits produce. Those droppings are actual waste. Even though they exit from the same end of the rabbit, the difference between ordinary droppings and cecotropes is vital to a rabbit's health. Within its intestines, a rabbit produces cecum. Cecum is an indigestible part of the animal's diet. Though it passes through the rabbit's body, it is not waste. Cecum helps rabbits produce vitamins, minerals, fatty and amino acids and the rabbit needs to eat the cecotropes to get these important nutrients.
Do cecotropes look different from ordinary rabbit droppings?
Yes. Cecotropes are a greenish color and are much softer. Rabbits often lick cecotropes straight from the anal area, so don't be alarmed by this behavior.
Do cecotropes mean that my rabbit is sick?
No, this process actually helps keep rabbits healthy. In fact, if your rabbit is unable to eat its cecotropes this could be an indicator of illness. Sometimes the cecotropes exit the rabbit's body at the same time as other wastes, or sometimes they are too runny for the rabbit to eat again. In each case, the rabbit could have a disease or nutritional problem, and should be checked out.
Sunday, January 4, 2009
Rabbits And Children Get Along
Do Rabbits And Children Get Along?
Do rabbits and children get along? What do you need to teach your children about rabbits before you buy one? How do you improve the relationship between your rabbits and your children?
If you have children you always want to research any pet you plan you buy. You want to make sure that this animal will pose no threat to your children.
Usually, rabbits are one of the best and safest pets for children, but you can never be too careful. Here are some things to consider before buying a bunny for your child.
Are rabbits good pets for children?
This mainly, as with any animal, depends on the child. Some children can play and be gentle with animals while other children are prone to be a bit more high strung cause the rabbit stress. Children love to pet rabbits because they are soft and furry. However, sometimes the rabbit may not want to be picked up and the child must realize when it is time to leave the rabbit to itself. If a child continues to pick the rabbit up it will squirm and scratch and possibly bite. This is where you come in to demonstrate and teach your child the appropriate way to handle and enjoy the rabbit. With a little discipline and respect, nearly any child can have a successful relationship with a pet bunny.
How old should a child be to have a rabbit?
This is definitely something to consider. A child under seven is a huge responsibility as it is, do you want to add another responsibility to your life. A child should be somewhat responsible and respectful to have a pet. If you already have a cat or dog, think about how your child treats those other animals. If your child plays just fine with those animals then it shouldn't have any problems with a rabbit. Again, it is based mostly on the individual child. You have to make the decision, remember, though, you are responsible for whatever happens.
Do rabbits and children get along? What do you need to teach your children about rabbits before you buy one? How do you improve the relationship between your rabbits and your children?
If you have children you always want to research any pet you plan you buy. You want to make sure that this animal will pose no threat to your children.
Usually, rabbits are one of the best and safest pets for children, but you can never be too careful. Here are some things to consider before buying a bunny for your child.
Are rabbits good pets for children?
This mainly, as with any animal, depends on the child. Some children can play and be gentle with animals while other children are prone to be a bit more high strung cause the rabbit stress. Children love to pet rabbits because they are soft and furry. However, sometimes the rabbit may not want to be picked up and the child must realize when it is time to leave the rabbit to itself. If a child continues to pick the rabbit up it will squirm and scratch and possibly bite. This is where you come in to demonstrate and teach your child the appropriate way to handle and enjoy the rabbit. With a little discipline and respect, nearly any child can have a successful relationship with a pet bunny.
How old should a child be to have a rabbit?
This is definitely something to consider. A child under seven is a huge responsibility as it is, do you want to add another responsibility to your life. A child should be somewhat responsible and respectful to have a pet. If you already have a cat or dog, think about how your child treats those other animals. If your child plays just fine with those animals then it shouldn't have any problems with a rabbit. Again, it is based mostly on the individual child. You have to make the decision, remember, though, you are responsible for whatever happens.
Saturday, January 3, 2009
Pet Rabbit Care
Pet Rabbit Care
Pet rabbit care: Rabbits make great pets. They are quiet and can be house-trained. Proper care and feeding are important but not difficult.
Rabbits in the wild live in large groups and usually only range as far as one or two acres. They explore and get to know their territory very well. They need to know this because rabbits are prey for other animals, and their only defense is their speed in running away. Rabbits are also territorial animals; they take ownership of their turf and they know it well.
A house rabbit needs its own place in your home. By nature, as prey, rabbits need a place that is theirs where they can feel safe from harm. Some people keep a large cage that's open so that their pet can come and go as it pleases.
Cedar shavings should never be used, as they are harmful to rabbits. Rabbits can be easily housetrained to go in a specific area. They will use a litterbox or two if provided. They don't go in the box just because it's there, so it's up to the owner to put the litterbox where the rabbit likes to go. Newspapers are good as litter. It helps to have a light portable vacuum like a Dustbuster to pick up the odd stray poop pellet.
Your home needs to be rabbit proofed unless you want to supervise it all day. Rabbits will chew on wood and wires if not discouraged. Rabbits are from the rodent family; so, as their teeth grow, they need to gnaw on wood to wear down their teeth a bit. Keep houseplants away from them. Rabbits are vegetarians and will love chewing on your plants.
Although rabbits are vegetarians, they tend to eat anything they like (crackers, for example). Rabbits eat constantly and need a lot of fiber. Good hay is important. Don't buy inferior quality stuff; your rabbit won't eat it.
Rabbits love carrot tops, spinach, broccoli, and other green vegetables. They'll eat all the lettuce you can give them, but it's important not to rely too heavily on lettuce as it has little nutritional value. Some enjoy fruit, but be very careful with anything new in the diet. Rabbits' small digestive systems can't handle a lot of change, and rabbits will get diarrhea from a large serving of fruit like plums or peaches. Lots of fresh water is essential for a rabbit's health. Rabbits need access to fresh water all day.
With a good variety of fresh food; fresh water; and a clean, cool environment, rabbits should live for seven to ten years. They don't get colds or viral infections, but they can get bacterial infections. When your rabbit appears ill, it's important to see an exotic animal veterinarian. Regular vets don't have the training to know your rabbit very well.
Part of the rabbit's defense mechanism is its eyes. Rabbits are capable of seeing in every direction to spy possible predators or other threats. The ears are sensitive, too. When at attention, rabbits' ears will stand up; when relaxed, their ears will lie down along their backs. Never pick up a rabbit by the ears; instead, do it by placing one hand under the chest between the front feet and the other under the rump. The nose should never be touched either.
Pet rabbit care: Rabbits make great pets. They are quiet and can be house-trained. Proper care and feeding are important but not difficult.
Rabbits in the wild live in large groups and usually only range as far as one or two acres. They explore and get to know their territory very well. They need to know this because rabbits are prey for other animals, and their only defense is their speed in running away. Rabbits are also territorial animals; they take ownership of their turf and they know it well.
A house rabbit needs its own place in your home. By nature, as prey, rabbits need a place that is theirs where they can feel safe from harm. Some people keep a large cage that's open so that their pet can come and go as it pleases.
Cedar shavings should never be used, as they are harmful to rabbits. Rabbits can be easily housetrained to go in a specific area. They will use a litterbox or two if provided. They don't go in the box just because it's there, so it's up to the owner to put the litterbox where the rabbit likes to go. Newspapers are good as litter. It helps to have a light portable vacuum like a Dustbuster to pick up the odd stray poop pellet.
Your home needs to be rabbit proofed unless you want to supervise it all day. Rabbits will chew on wood and wires if not discouraged. Rabbits are from the rodent family; so, as their teeth grow, they need to gnaw on wood to wear down their teeth a bit. Keep houseplants away from them. Rabbits are vegetarians and will love chewing on your plants.
Although rabbits are vegetarians, they tend to eat anything they like (crackers, for example). Rabbits eat constantly and need a lot of fiber. Good hay is important. Don't buy inferior quality stuff; your rabbit won't eat it.
Rabbits love carrot tops, spinach, broccoli, and other green vegetables. They'll eat all the lettuce you can give them, but it's important not to rely too heavily on lettuce as it has little nutritional value. Some enjoy fruit, but be very careful with anything new in the diet. Rabbits' small digestive systems can't handle a lot of change, and rabbits will get diarrhea from a large serving of fruit like plums or peaches. Lots of fresh water is essential for a rabbit's health. Rabbits need access to fresh water all day.
With a good variety of fresh food; fresh water; and a clean, cool environment, rabbits should live for seven to ten years. They don't get colds or viral infections, but they can get bacterial infections. When your rabbit appears ill, it's important to see an exotic animal veterinarian. Regular vets don't have the training to know your rabbit very well.
Part of the rabbit's defense mechanism is its eyes. Rabbits are capable of seeing in every direction to spy possible predators or other threats. The ears are sensitive, too. When at attention, rabbits' ears will stand up; when relaxed, their ears will lie down along their backs. Never pick up a rabbit by the ears; instead, do it by placing one hand under the chest between the front feet and the other under the rump. The nose should never be touched either.
Friday, January 2, 2009
A Rabbit As A Pet
Should You Buy A Rabbit As A Pet?
What kinds of things should you consider before buying a rabbit as a pet? How do you know how much work it will be? How do you know if a rabbit will fit in well in your home?
Choosing your rabbit is the most basic and important decision you make before starting to care for it. You want to find a rabbit that is disease-free. This isn't necessarily as difficult as it may sound. You need to inspect a potential pet rabbit for any signs of disease. Most rabbits at a pet store have been vaccinated and mostly likely will be completely healthy. However, at a shelter many rabbits come to the shelter diseased. This isn't to scare you away from shelters; there are many reputable shelters. You just need to know what to look for.
Clean coat.
Healthy rabbits will have clean coats. Run your hands over the fur of the rabbit. Look for bald spots or any trace of parasites.
Weight.
If a rabbit is underweight it has a chance or a susceptibility to disease. Feel along the rabbit's back and sides. If you can feel its spine and ribs, it may be underweight. Rabbits with a normal body weight will have a good layer of meat or fat over it's bones.
Watery eyes.
Good clear eyes is one sign of good health. If a rabbit has excessive discharge or a watery film over it's eyes it is likely diseased.
Breath rate.
If the rabbit is panting or short of breath this is another sign of a variety of diseases. You should not be able to hear the rabbit breathing. If it wheezes or breaths audibly or takes more sixty breaths per minute, something is interfering with its breaths or an infection in it's lungs.
Teeth.
Lift the lips away from the rabbit's teeth. The main incisor should be healthy, white and with plenty of enamel. Also notice the rabbit's bite. If the bottom and upper teeth close and fit together snugly this is another
sign of good health. If the rabbit has an abnormal bite, it could unintentionally bite down on its lip. This cut could become infected without your knowing.
Demeanor.
The easiest and always tell-tale sign of bad health. If the animal seems sluggish or reserved. Notice the rabbit's behavior outside the cage. A rabbit is always, by nature inspecting and fussing around. If the rabbit stands about, it may have some sort of health problem.
What kinds of things should you consider before buying a rabbit as a pet? How do you know how much work it will be? How do you know if a rabbit will fit in well in your home?
Choosing your rabbit is the most basic and important decision you make before starting to care for it. You want to find a rabbit that is disease-free. This isn't necessarily as difficult as it may sound. You need to inspect a potential pet rabbit for any signs of disease. Most rabbits at a pet store have been vaccinated and mostly likely will be completely healthy. However, at a shelter many rabbits come to the shelter diseased. This isn't to scare you away from shelters; there are many reputable shelters. You just need to know what to look for.
Clean coat.
Healthy rabbits will have clean coats. Run your hands over the fur of the rabbit. Look for bald spots or any trace of parasites.
Weight.
If a rabbit is underweight it has a chance or a susceptibility to disease. Feel along the rabbit's back and sides. If you can feel its spine and ribs, it may be underweight. Rabbits with a normal body weight will have a good layer of meat or fat over it's bones.
Watery eyes.
Good clear eyes is one sign of good health. If a rabbit has excessive discharge or a watery film over it's eyes it is likely diseased.
Breath rate.
If the rabbit is panting or short of breath this is another sign of a variety of diseases. You should not be able to hear the rabbit breathing. If it wheezes or breaths audibly or takes more sixty breaths per minute, something is interfering with its breaths or an infection in it's lungs.
Teeth.
Lift the lips away from the rabbit's teeth. The main incisor should be healthy, white and with plenty of enamel. Also notice the rabbit's bite. If the bottom and upper teeth close and fit together snugly this is another
sign of good health. If the rabbit has an abnormal bite, it could unintentionally bite down on its lip. This cut could become infected without your knowing.
Demeanor.
The easiest and always tell-tale sign of bad health. If the animal seems sluggish or reserved. Notice the rabbit's behavior outside the cage. A rabbit is always, by nature inspecting and fussing around. If the rabbit stands about, it may have some sort of health problem.
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Hamster Diseases
Hamster Diseases
Diseases and conditions common to hamsters: allergies, colds, dietary problems, heatstroke, wet tail, hair loss, parasites, abscesses, tumors.
A fact of life is that pets are not immortal. With hamsters, their life span is considerably shorter than ours, living, at best, from two to three years.
While they are alive, a pet owner has the responsibility to help the hamster maintain a healthy existence. It is important to know your hamster's behavior so if there is a change, professional help can be obtained. Knowing its eating patterns, its appearance, density of its hair, natural aroma, etc. can help an owner obtain help at the first sign of a problem.
Some of the more common signs of illness are:
The owner who interacts regularly with his hamster will notice these things and be able to attend to them rapidly.
Prevention is most important. Proper diet is fundamental. Feeding the hamster the highest quality in a balance keeps fat to a minimum. Fresh clean water is vital. The hamster's cage must be kept clean and dry and away from drafts or direct sunlight. It is also important to keep the pet's stress level to a minimum.
Even with the most diligent care, hamsters are not immortal. After his first or second birthday, changes will be evident. A diligent owner will know when the changes are due to age or if age is part of it. If not, a veterinarian can help.
Some ailments to be aware of are:
Allergies: Symptoms such as red feet, sneezing, watery eyes, and hair loss or dry skin in an otherwise healthy hamster indicates allergy. This is either an allergy to certain foods or bedding products. Monitoring food intake and eliminating one thing at a time can help you determine what it is an allergy to. In addition, try changing the bedding to something different. Suggestions for food substitutes are white rice, white bread, fresh vegetables and fruit, or cereal such as corn flakes. Stay away from anything with high sugar content, as hamsters (especially dwarf Russians) are prone to diabetes.
Colds: Just like humans, hamsters get colds. Keep them away from drafts and dampness. If the hamster has symptoms such as watery eyes, runny nose, sneezing, and lethargy, he most likely has a cold. He will probably be curled up in a corner and feel cool to the touch. Colds in hamsters can become deadly if not monitored. Keep the cage away from drafts and provide an artificial light source to add warmth. A lukewarm solution of equal parts milk and water with a touch of honey can be given to the hamster. If the hamster shows no improvement after two days, see the veterinarian.
Diarrhea: Do not feed the hamster EXCESSIVE green vegetables or change the diet EXCESSIVELY as this might cause diarrhea. Green vegetables are good, but not an excessive amount. A hamster with diarrhea has a dirty cage and is dirty as well. Go to all dry food until the condition stops.
Heatstroke: If a hamster's cage is kept too close to a heat source or in direct sunlight it can overheat. If the fur is damp and the hamster is unresponsive, you should immediately start cooling him down by pouring cool water over him and making him drink. If he doesn't seem to come back to himself shortly, go right to the veterinarian.
Wet Tail: This most prevalent hamster disease (proliferative ileitis) is a bacterial illness causing sever diarrhea and can prove fatal. It is common in newly acquired hamsters. Stress and sudden change are common causes as are habitat overcrowding, extreme temperatures, and unsanitary living conditions. The telltale sign is a wet tail. Treatment includes antibiotics, fluid therapy, and anti-diarrhea medicine that must be gotten at a veterinarian since hamsters can have severe reactions to medication. Survival is directly linked to the quality of nursing and the quality of the environment.
Hair Loss: If hair loss is accompanied by increased thirst, it is a classic sign of adrenal disease, which may require surgery. It may also be a sign of thyroid disease or, in females, reproductive tract diseases.
Parasites: Hair loss and skin problems can be caused by parasites (mites) that cause mange. These mites are usually a dormant resident on hamsters, but become active when another serious internal illness arises. A veterinarian should be contacted.
Abscesses: Hamsters are prone to these, so the owner should look for bumps and lumps on the skin. Tumors are also a possibility. See the veterinarian for anything found on the hamster's body that doesn't look normal.
A pet owner has the responsibility to help the hamster maintain a healthy existence and care for him when and if problems arise.
Diseases and conditions common to hamsters: allergies, colds, dietary problems, heatstroke, wet tail, hair loss, parasites, abscesses, tumors.
A fact of life is that pets are not immortal. With hamsters, their life span is considerably shorter than ours, living, at best, from two to three years.
While they are alive, a pet owner has the responsibility to help the hamster maintain a healthy existence. It is important to know your hamster's behavior so if there is a change, professional help can be obtained. Knowing its eating patterns, its appearance, density of its hair, natural aroma, etc. can help an owner obtain help at the first sign of a problem.
Some of the more common signs of illness are:
- uncharacteristic lethargy, especially at playtime (late afternoon and evening)
- a lack of appetite
- diarrhea
- presence of moisture around the hamster's rear end (classic sign of wet tail)
- a deterioration in the quality, density, and texture of its hair
- swollen abdomen,
- incessant scratching
- failure to tend to routine grooming
- unusual odor
- drinking excessive amounts of water or excessive urination (kidney disease, diabetes, or adrenal disease)
- circling behavior (acute sign of ear infection)
- development of lumps or bumps under the skin (tumors or abscesses)
- eye discharge
The owner who interacts regularly with his hamster will notice these things and be able to attend to them rapidly.
Prevention is most important. Proper diet is fundamental. Feeding the hamster the highest quality in a balance keeps fat to a minimum. Fresh clean water is vital. The hamster's cage must be kept clean and dry and away from drafts or direct sunlight. It is also important to keep the pet's stress level to a minimum.
Even with the most diligent care, hamsters are not immortal. After his first or second birthday, changes will be evident. A diligent owner will know when the changes are due to age or if age is part of it. If not, a veterinarian can help.
Some ailments to be aware of are:
Allergies: Symptoms such as red feet, sneezing, watery eyes, and hair loss or dry skin in an otherwise healthy hamster indicates allergy. This is either an allergy to certain foods or bedding products. Monitoring food intake and eliminating one thing at a time can help you determine what it is an allergy to. In addition, try changing the bedding to something different. Suggestions for food substitutes are white rice, white bread, fresh vegetables and fruit, or cereal such as corn flakes. Stay away from anything with high sugar content, as hamsters (especially dwarf Russians) are prone to diabetes.
Colds: Just like humans, hamsters get colds. Keep them away from drafts and dampness. If the hamster has symptoms such as watery eyes, runny nose, sneezing, and lethargy, he most likely has a cold. He will probably be curled up in a corner and feel cool to the touch. Colds in hamsters can become deadly if not monitored. Keep the cage away from drafts and provide an artificial light source to add warmth. A lukewarm solution of equal parts milk and water with a touch of honey can be given to the hamster. If the hamster shows no improvement after two days, see the veterinarian.
Diarrhea: Do not feed the hamster EXCESSIVE green vegetables or change the diet EXCESSIVELY as this might cause diarrhea. Green vegetables are good, but not an excessive amount. A hamster with diarrhea has a dirty cage and is dirty as well. Go to all dry food until the condition stops.
Heatstroke: If a hamster's cage is kept too close to a heat source or in direct sunlight it can overheat. If the fur is damp and the hamster is unresponsive, you should immediately start cooling him down by pouring cool water over him and making him drink. If he doesn't seem to come back to himself shortly, go right to the veterinarian.
Wet Tail: This most prevalent hamster disease (proliferative ileitis) is a bacterial illness causing sever diarrhea and can prove fatal. It is common in newly acquired hamsters. Stress and sudden change are common causes as are habitat overcrowding, extreme temperatures, and unsanitary living conditions. The telltale sign is a wet tail. Treatment includes antibiotics, fluid therapy, and anti-diarrhea medicine that must be gotten at a veterinarian since hamsters can have severe reactions to medication. Survival is directly linked to the quality of nursing and the quality of the environment.
Hair Loss: If hair loss is accompanied by increased thirst, it is a classic sign of adrenal disease, which may require surgery. It may also be a sign of thyroid disease or, in females, reproductive tract diseases.
Parasites: Hair loss and skin problems can be caused by parasites (mites) that cause mange. These mites are usually a dormant resident on hamsters, but become active when another serious internal illness arises. A veterinarian should be contacted.
Abscesses: Hamsters are prone to these, so the owner should look for bumps and lumps on the skin. Tumors are also a possibility. See the veterinarian for anything found on the hamster's body that doesn't look normal.
A pet owner has the responsibility to help the hamster maintain a healthy existence and care for him when and if problems arise.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)